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I was born in 54, wish I could remember where I put the mint roll of them.

Well the £10 coin nearly fetched £200.00 , words fail me......................

Lighting is immensely important - I'd say the most important ingredient for taking good coin images. The type of light bulb (LED, incandescent, fluorescent) you use is less important, but understanding how to use that light source is key. For example, being able to set a custom white balance in your camera for your particular lights is key to getting realistic colors. The size of the light source (small bulb vs. large bulb) or the apparent size of the light source (e.g., a small light source diffused acts like a larger light source) is also important for fully lighting the coin's surface. The angle of the lights changes the appearance of the coin's surfaces a lot -- and your lights should always be placed above your mounted camera lens, if not even higher. With regard to lighting (in particularly angle), I wrote up a little article on the NGC forums some 3+ years ago, and I think it may be helpful. Keep your lights at a high angle to the surface on which the coin is placed, and diffuse them enough or use large enough light point surfaces to avoid hot spots on the coin. See my little schematic below of what my photography rig looks like. Second to lighting, I would say that mounting your camera on a solid copy stand or tripod is very important. Images taken with a hand held camera will be a bit "shaky" or lacking in detail. I have seen hand-held images of coins that get the message across, but the ability to zoom in and see details or inspect surfaces is very limited. Not only is mounting your camera on a sturdy surface important, but it is also important that your camera is aligned to the flat surface of the coin properly. By that I mean, the camera's detector (a small rectangular flat surface at the back of the lens where the image is focused) needs to be perfectly parallel with the coin's surface (i.e., in parallel planes). This is important for focusing reasons. The easiest way to make sure your camera is mounted parallel with the surface on which the coin is placed is to use a little mirror. Place the mirror where you would place the coin, and adjust your camera in the x, y, and z planes as needed until the center of your lens' reflection is perfectly centered in the camera's viewfinder. See the little schematic I created below. Lastly, practice, practice, and practice some more. I have now taken somewhere around 20,000 images of coins over the past 7 years. I have only been happy with my images for the past 4.5 years. It takes a while to get up to "happy" quality -- and I'm still improving my images and tweaking things today. I try to take at least some coin photos 2-3 days of every week. It just keeps me in the "zone". I hope some of these hints help a little. Best, Brandon

Has anyone seen coins crack like this before, they look like they are de-laminating , only effects one side. And thanks Non for showing me how to stich 2 photos together

And no mention of CGS on the new listing. I found another like this, where the seller had added a CGS grade, but it had not passed through CGS. I messaged the seller who said it was an error and took it off. The same may have happened here, or he didn't like the price it went for. Deserves to get some very poor feedback from you. Liar.

He might not even know what CGS70 means. He might just have googled "20p Coin No Date" and the words "CGS70" and "mule" just came up with it.

Not only that, the coin is not slabbed, misleading at the very least to describe it as CGS 70!

Looks a good error Jon.....Three legs and not got a head.....HAT OFF Joking aside nice group of coins although i dont know anything about them

Here's a few of mine, although most of the lamination has come off already, some do retain it (like yours) if it's not been manhandled too much.

Yeah got a few of them. Lamination errors like you say. I can't remember the exact cause, I think it's impurities within the metal (being one of them) and I imagine the striking process has something to say about it too. I like how the farthing is now growing hair

We didn’t have gas at our home in the 60s but I recall we had APM SMITH’s electricity meters, which took a florin

Man wants it man gets it :)

The last paragraph is the truth, the establishment run the country, the problem they have is they cant buy Trump, his own Republican Party are against him even before the latest scandal came out, They much prefer Clinton as she knows how the system is suppose to work and is partial to the odd free dollar In my opinion the last constructive President was a common man, with no affiliation to the establishment, and who said it like it was, Ronald Regan

I was born in 1967 so just been trying with one of them. The wife just asked me what i was doing...........

As promised a picture of my rather cruddy 1899 half crown after 4 weeks soaking in olive oil and then a gentle dab with cotton buds and acetone. IMO it hasn't done the coin any harm and has got rid of a lot of the dirt that had built up around the inscription, compare it with the original posted earlier, especially noticeable around the H. I found that the treatment loosed up the really heavy dirt and a gentle prod with a tooth pick and it came away, I could have gone further but didn't want to chance it.

Got a scanned copy from the Fitzwilliam Museum in the end. Will have to pick it up when I'm back in UK.

I bought this because I liked the die clash. Obvious on the obverse, particularly prominent between the neck and the ribbon. These are the seller's pictures. Having the coin in hand and a loupe, on the reverse leading up from Britannia's knee I can see (not visible on the photos, sorry) the whole of Victoria's profile. It's clashtastic.

One i bought a few weeks ago 1856 Penny not the easiest date to find in a decent grade.

I received my DNW auction lots today, and in the Peck that I won, there was a very interesting document from the Empire Coin company about the probably unique 1954 penny. Take a look:-

Here's my only LIMA coin, what I think is a reasonably serviceable 1745 Shilling bought from the Midland Coin Fair in June this year!

Hello I have a very extensive collection of shillings - from 1816-1970 which I am now selling or willing to exchange for halfpennies. Please contact me if interested, with any specific coins wanted and I will be happy to supply images Regards