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I am jumping in now on this discussion as I feel it is relevant. I recently broke out 4 x CGS coins. All graded from 80-96. I submitted them to NGC (Why because I am guaranteed to get more money at auction with NGC or PCGS than CGS or LCGS, I don't apologize for this, I am a dealer as well as collector and need to put food on my table). The CGS 80 came back "AU Details Cleaned". Because of CGS slack grading I lost money on this coin . The others came back between MS63 and MS65. I suspected they 96 was overgrazed by CGS and I was correct. The grading by a world recognized grading company will cove rtes grading costs and the loss I made on the cleaned coin. I am other dealers will always bid more on big ticket auctions for PCGS or NGC graded coins. When I think about it I should not be surprised. LCGS are really just dealers like many others. They have their own grading service and they use it for coins they sell, so it's the police, policing the police. This is why we use grading companies such as PCGS or NGC. They are in the business of grading coins and make money certifying coins and not selling them. LCGS are in the business of selling coins and as a side line offer a grading service. When you consider some coins can jump sometimes tens of thousands for one grade, does LCGS really have the coin collectors best interest at heart? While I like the Sheldon scale, I also see nothing wrong with LCGS 100 scale, but with my hand on my heart can not trust LCGS to do the right thing for a coin collector. One other point, the CGS/LCGS slabs are crap, they don't fit in proper holders, are hard to stack of you like me travel with 50-80 graded coins in my brief case, but its a moot point. If you are a CSG graded coin collector, one day you or your next of kin may wish to sell them. They/you may have to sell them in one go and contact a dealer or place them at a large auction house like Heritage Auction/ Stacks & Bowers. Bidders will not the grading seriously and the final hammer price will be much lower. Knowing this I wonder why people waste money on LCGS service?

Woman joins handbag in X-ray machine ... http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-asia-43057574

Reported.

Check out the photo... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/132504815553?ViewItem=&item=132504815553

I forgot to mention, the date numeral positioning matches known F-20's also

It is fun, and of enormous value to this rookie. Better photos will surely help, which I hope to be able to provide tomorrow. I am expecting F20 as the most likely.

Hi All the mint will be set up tonight in Sansum square in York and I will be minting Alfred The Great coins and a wide variety of Viking coins from Monday till Thurs PM do pop in if in the area for a chat etc

not a good idea to advertise on facebook when the house is not occupied I post up events when I have house sitters

True Pete, we had fun with that one. It is a nice example. I haven’t sent pics to Richard yet, will do so when I can get at my PC 😣 , furniture stacked everywhere and dust by the bucket😡. Jerry

You will know Jerry after the F28 you bought that gave me a headache thinking it was a F20

I think that impression may be a photo issue. I certainly get the impression of a signature along the lower border of the bust, and the slight ‘recess’ mid way along the lower border is characteristic of obverse 2. I also don’t see the cut away section of bust margin on the right that would be compatible with obverse 5. Another issue is the slight misalignment of the R in BRITT. I have seen this on some obverse 2 dies, but it does not feature on the F28 obverse dies so far noted (refer Richards’s site). If it is F28, it would have to be a different combination of Obverse 5 plus Reverse G dies than the others so far found. I stand by F20. At the very least this topic demonstrates how we all see different things in the information presented to us. As noted before, I would not be sorry to be wrong, time will tell. PS I see Bernie agrees with me, that gives me some confidence ! Jerry

Looks ex-mount to me. The third picture looks particularly damning.

Not as I understand it VS. These are marks from die clashing - all the marks that can be seen are attributable to the folds in Britannia's drapery etc. transferred from the reverse. Bag marks are simply impact damage from another coin. I also think the mark on the 1912 half crown is a bag mark, albeit a pretty heavy one.

hi yes all over the country

The 1957 half crown shown above has clash marks from the dies coming together without planchet in between leaving details of obv. on rev. and vice versa.These are NOT primarily bagmarks.

Quite amazing! Hey, D, I’m going to leave that H2 Tealby alone for now, I’m going to give that pretty John a go instead!

Meh. Not exactly Johnny Hoogerland though are ya?

the ribbon ties on obverse 2 are almost touching. Obverse 5 shows that characteristic loop shaped gap between the ties as on the coin above

Wickes of course, where I get my best washers

I refuse to draw a line anywhere. 1872: