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Have been looking for a decent one of these on ebay for years. Have only seen a couple of lower grade ones, and I'm thinking the variety is 'rare', rather than 'scarce' as per Gouby.

I believe there is also a rare 1890 date variety which is not documented by Gouby. The 9 is clearly higher than the numeral 8. It also seems to be rotated clockwise a little and, perhaps, has a longer tail.

I decided to have a quick look at the long cross after all. I think the reverse legend is ERO/NEV, so the full legend would be REN/ERO/NEV/ERW (RENER ON EVERW) That would make it moneyer Rener, York mint. Class IIIb-IIIc

Firstly, all short cross pennies have the name HENRICVS on the obverse even though they cover the reigns of Henry II, Richard, John and Henry III. The coins are divided into eight classes using a number of distinguishing factors and thereby into date and king order. Short cross pennies are my main field of interest so I'll have a go: The first reverse reads AN.ON.NO That and the style of the portrait means it can only be Iohan (moneyer), Norwich (Mint), so Class 5, circa 1206-7, King John. I'm not sure of the sub-class, but the obverse letters (EX together and type of X) would indicate 5b1 or 5b3) as possiblilies.The full reverse legend would be +IOHAN.ON.NOR The second is a bit more difficult, but I think it reads ERD:ON:C (at first I thought it was ERN, but that doesn't make sense). That would make the moneyer and mint Roberd, Canterbury. The colons either side of ON mean that it is almost certainly class 4a* under King Richard. The full reverse legend would be +ROBERD:ON:CAN The third is much more difficult. The reverse legend is OR+ and that's about all I can read, so you have the last two letters of the mint. That would indicate Norwich or Northampton mints. The obverse portrait indicates an early type, so class 1,2 or 3, which rules out Norwich. So I'd say it's Northampton, which also rules out class 2. I think that the mint signature of NOR limits the possible moneyers to Reinald, Walter, Willelm, Ravl or Roberd. I think the first letter of the moneyer could be a W or R, which won't help. The forth is long cross and not really my field of interest, although I do have a few in my collection.

Here's my Dad's WW2 Medals. It looks like it might work

I tried to post this just after we'd retained the Ryder Cup but it wouldn't let me. It seems less amusing now...........

Just also trying a random jpg.

Hello everyone. I'll see about getting the forum software and all the stuff it relies on upgraded to the newest versions at the weekend. There may well be some hiccups along the way, but in the end it'll be worth it I'm sure. Thanks for your patience.

In the interest of trying to keep some coins showing on the forum , I'll try to post this 1962 penny with missing waves and horizon left of lighthouse . listed by David Groom , [ but not pictured ]

Yesterday, Noonan's sold an F13 penny with repaired E's. It was also the "short sea" variety described on Page 14 of John Jerrams' booklet on Bun Pennies. The mutliple repairs to letters and the linear circle are distinctive of this variety.

I've been searching for one of these for years..................... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/365916219444?itmmeta=01K7BV2E3H5S44ATWR28SSQMX7&hash=item55324e6834:g:VfgAAeSwO~No6sCp&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA4FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1fniTEmULTgZoT%2BvNdgoHck15q%2F4yFunnC8W1AV%2BZHUId%2BN5bYtfg%2FU2A1uMec%2BvYrJIrxP5xbJXjE8GqBvQWwUVgS8t1QsXwGDqOi%2FJZsi4P0GIXyLKxjBYb3IZP4F%2BdZ8V3AIf9stOLgmQHSNZ3kmEgB8Ebd5jh7yf8bRtvp1Asc98h6RLMQugz5cnlJTsHXvuM22fIswWKbmtXABfN51fyOIWeM5OqO0Urj%2BsOSyDHSnk1E1FeQafThezKEeQ155pEVa8N62Df%2BDSNZ2wxfT|tkp%3ABk9SR4Diifu6Zg

"This is a testament to your test reply of someone's test" , he replied testily.

Aaw thank you 🙂 that acetone tip sounds like a good plan! The old albums are definitely from the 80's because I used to help put the coins into them as my share of the hobby! Some of the coins from the cabinet look absolutely gorgeous - I'm going to do a bit of research to try to figure out what they are and then probably share some photos on here as they're so beautiful to look at 🤩 there's a nice variety of well loved coins (ie pretty worn out!) and barely touched coins. Thank you again!

I bought an F33 with I over I in BRITT at Noonan's last week. It's my second example, but with a different overstrike: And the previous one:

Thanks Terry, I've added to my rare penny site.

Paddy and others, try dragging an image into a post. Should work now. Here's one such image: (That's a still from a Blue Peter episode where they used 2 of my coin images in a Penny Farthing Bicycle feature - earned me a Blue Peter badge!)

I have one listed on ebay at the moment. The same short sea/rock formation, repaired E's, die cracks. Ebay item#: 326743200377

I get rejected on about 3/4 of the replies I try to post. If it comes to users chipping in to help funding the forum, I'm sure most would be amenable, but then it constitutes a contract, so would require both parties to accept both funding and a prompt fix. Funnily enough, this one posted, but no attachments.

This is one of the other coins that came with it. Also Mauryan Ashoka c200BC and a more reasonable size at 15mm across.

Sticking my neck out even further, looking again at the third short cross I think that the first letter of the moneyer isn't an R (it doesn't look at all like the R of NOR), but it looks (more) like a W. Then the letter before the cut, which would probably be the third letter in the moneyer's name) looks like the foot of an L. So that leaves Walter and Willelm, with Willelm class 1a or 1b being the most likely because the L of Walter usually occurs in the second quarter of the coin rather than the first. Oh and it's Henry II. I don't think I can get much further with this one...

Ok - as a try and for want of anything else to post, a picture of my Grandfather's WW2 medals: Yes! Worked fine.

Not at all, thank you and so many others. Still not there yet with the dragging image into post error issue, but I'm making slow progress - I think. It also affects the customisation of pages and keeps booting me out behind the scenes, very annoying.

A member since 2005, I got my one year badge too. At that rate, I'm only a bit more than 3.5 years old

I got one of those too! 😄

It was supposed to be a simple case of copying some files from here to there and then running an 'upgrade' script, but of course it became an 8 hour ordeal just to get things into a state where it would even allow me to run the upgrade script, with just blank failure shown on screen and mostly unhelpful messages if at all. Emails to and from my host and a support request with the Invision forum people, plus me baffooning around trying to change random settings that I read online had helped for a bloke called Keith in a similar but different situation and here we are! It's all upgraded so hopefully it now works flawlessly in every respect. What definitely no longer works in the rest of the predecimal.com site (from the root, i.e. without the /forum bit). That wasn't really doing much and the aim is to now move the forum over to the root so that predecimal.com is just the forum. I'll also change that old banner stuff at the top and maybe add some extra info about predecimal.com, but first, let's see how all this new software and stuff works.

Bring them to the Huddersfield Coin Fair tomorrow morning and I will see what you have. Starts at 9:30 at the Cedar Court Hotel at Ainley Top just off the M62, junction 24. Map. Entry is £2. We are in the room looking out through the big window on the front of the building. I'm RP Coins, and my table 24-25 is the last one on the row turning left just before the window. 32 dealers there tomorrow at the last count, so plenty to choose from if you decide to sell elsewhere. Hopefully see you tomorrow. Rob

I am in the South West, so a bit too far away to offer direct help. Maybe someone else on here will volunteer. As a starting point, the bullion value of your sovereigns is around £727 each at the moment. If they are in particularly good condition or a rare date, they may make more. If you sell them, most dealers would want to pay less than that as they can only sell them to collectors at bullion most of the time, and they need to leave a margin. (Many Jewellers are particularly tight, usually offering only half bullion value!) Maybe the "Yorkshire Auction House" featured on the TV might help? They have a resident coin expert. On the gradings you have got, bear in mind that "Good" in coin terms is almost derogatory. Collectors for modern coins will mostly only start at Very Fine or better. P

Not a penny as it is dated. Can't determine denomination without other measurements ideally weight, but certainly diameter.

If in doubt, the first post of call would be weight. You can lose pieces off the flan, but unless obviously half a coin and therefore half the full weight it would almost always be within 5-10% window either side of nominal unless it has serious corrosion issues. Coins were worth their precious metal value, because they defined it. Sure there are exceptions, that's what knowledgeable people are for, but in the main aren't required for basic spadework.

wow many thanks, this has been a great help...although it starts a new page of Foreign hammered coins that I have mixed in with the British Hammered coins. once again this has been a great educational help...all the very best "H"

Yes, definitely a penny. Both three half pence and three farthings would be dated.

Cross Crosslet Penny 👍

Perfectly legit.

Aha,.......yes! I tried this with 2 rubbed shillings, "Ting!" and then one of the rubbed shillings against the half crown and "Ting!" so... hopefully this concludes its not a alloy or base metal conundrum....a satisfying moment when this happened.... 👍

I must say I have to agree with Coinery - whilst there were many high quality contemporary forgeries, it really does look pretty genuine; don't know offhand what a correct weight should be, though... One other possibility is that it is actually genuine and that some foreign matter got mixed into the molten silver when the blanks were made and it is this that has subsequently made the missing sliver of surface silver fall off during its life, a bit like a lamination flaw. To be absolutely definitive, it would need to be seen in the flesh by someone competent.

I have to say, whilst I can’t explain away the flaw/issue, I feel the coin looks genuine to me…at least as much as studying an image can conclude. What about weight?

Very nearly EF in my opinion

Good very fine.

Sad to hear. As you will recall olive oil has an acidic pH and so not for lustrous copper coinage as you've found out.

As I understand it, none of these are genuine mint errors. The two parts of the coin are put together as blanks, before they have the design pressed into them. The minting machines would not be able to process separated pieces, so there is no way the patterns could be minted onto incomplete blanks. It is far too easy to knock the centre out of a coin and then claim "mint error" for a premium. Even worse are the ones where they have re-inserted the centre rotated or even back to front - again all impossible in the minting process.

I have a problem with using acetone- not in itself, it's a very useful cleaner, but the fact that the metal is left totally exposed to the atmosphere after cleaning. I think a slight protective oil layer should be left, and I do mean 'slight'...I use Electrolube EML for switches with silver contacts on equipment. EML was specified for switch contact protection when the equipment was made, in the late '60's and early 70's. The switches that have had protection still work fine. Switches that were cleaned with types of 'contact cleaner', that have no protective inert oil, are through the plating and down to the brass, and require very expensive replacement. It would be worth experimenting - a small amount is applied, and a dry clean paintbrush is used to remove all but the finest trace- enough to create an invisible barrier. People promote olive oil for some coins, but if you look at the impurities in olive oils, it's difficult to believe it's not corrosive...

If the coin is not high grade and is very dirty, then cleaning it is OK. But you need to be very careful with high grade examples. For high grades, dabbing with a cotton bud soaked in acetone should be fine, but don't rub, as this will cause hairlines.

The obverse is a bit clearer now. I can see the eyes of a crude portrait and maybe a crown, but that's about it. 17mm is definitelty on the small side for a typical English short cross (which it obviously isn't), long cross or Edward Penny, but as I said I don't think it's English anyway. Maybe it's a continental sterling imitation, but I can't find any that look like that. The fact is I really don't know.

I have only ever posted .jpg and my recent success was also.jpg. There is not difference between .jpeg and .jpg. This is what Google has to say: "There is no practical difference between JPEG and JPG files; they both refer to the same image file format created by the Joint Photographic Experts Group. The shorter, three-letter "JPG" extension originated from a legacy limitation in older versions of Microsoft Windows, which only allowed three-character file extensions. Modern operating systems no longer have this limitation, so most applications can open and interpret both file extensions interchangeably, making them identical in function. "

I picked this up at a recent auction as it and its fellows seemed to be going very cheap. Comes described as a Mauryan Ashoka 1/32nd Karshapana from around 250BC. Measures about 4mm - Five pence for scale.

The reverse looks weird to me with those single annulets in two of the quadrants instead of the usual three pellets in all four. I can't make out anything on the obverse; it's a little out of focus so maybe a better picture would help. Personally I don't think it's English. What is the diameter and weight?

That's a nice find. I couldn't see the same overstrike on any of mine, but I did find this: the C in "Victoria" struck over another C: