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Have been looking for a decent one of these on ebay for years. Have only seen a couple of lower grade ones, and I'm thinking the variety is 'rare', rather than 'scarce' as per Gouby.

I bought an F33 with I over I in BRITT at Noonan's last week. It's my second example, but with a different overstrike: And the previous one:

Here's my Dad's WW2 Medals. It looks like it might work

I tried to post this just after we'd retained the Ryder Cup but it wouldn't let me. It seems less amusing now...........

I believe there is also a rare 1890 date variety which is not documented by Gouby. The 9 is clearly higher than the numeral 8. It also seems to be rotated clockwise a little and, perhaps, has a longer tail.

I decided to have a quick look at the long cross after all. I think the reverse legend is ERO/NEV, so the full legend would be REN/ERO/NEV/ERW (RENER ON EVERW) That would make it moneyer Rener, York mint. Class IIIb-IIIc

Firstly, all short cross pennies have the name HENRICVS on the obverse even though they cover the reigns of Henry II, Richard, John and Henry III. The coins are divided into eight classes using a number of distinguishing factors and thereby into date and king order. Short cross pennies are my main field of interest so I'll have a go: The first reverse reads AN.ON.NO That and the style of the portrait means it can only be Iohan (moneyer), Norwich (Mint), so Class 5, circa 1206-7, King John. I'm not sure of the sub-class, but the obverse letters (EX together and type of X) would indicate 5b1 or 5b3) as possiblilies.The full reverse legend would be +IOHAN.ON.NOR The second is a bit more difficult, but I think it reads ERD:ON:C (at first I thought it was ERN, but that doesn't make sense). That would make the moneyer and mint Roberd, Canterbury. The colons either side of ON mean that it is almost certainly class 4a* under King Richard. The full reverse legend would be +ROBERD:ON:CAN The third is much more difficult. The reverse legend is OR+ and that's about all I can read, so you have the last two letters of the mint. That would indicate Norwich or Northampton mints. The obverse portrait indicates an early type, so class 1,2 or 3, which rules out Norwich. So I'd say it's Northampton, which also rules out class 2. I think that the mint signature of NOR limits the possible moneyers to Reinald, Walter, Willelm, Ravl or Roberd. I think the first letter of the moneyer could be a W or R, which won't help. The forth is long cross and not really my field of interest, although I do have a few in my collection.

Just also trying a random jpg.

Hello everyone. I'll see about getting the forum software and all the stuff it relies on upgraded to the newest versions at the weekend. There may well be some hiccups along the way, but in the end it'll be worth it I'm sure. Thanks for your patience.

In the interest of trying to keep some coins showing on the forum , I'll try to post this 1962 penny with missing waves and horizon left of lighthouse . listed by David Groom , [ but not pictured ]

Yesterday, Noonan's sold an F13 penny with repaired E's. It was also the "short sea" variety described on Page 14 of John Jerrams' booklet on Bun Pennies. The mutliple repairs to letters and the linear circle are distinctive of this variety.

I've been searching for one of these for years..................... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/365916219444?itmmeta=01K7BV2E3H5S44ATWR28SSQMX7&hash=item55324e6834:g:VfgAAeSwO~No6sCp&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA4FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1fniTEmULTgZoT%2BvNdgoHck15q%2F4yFunnC8W1AV%2BZHUId%2BN5bYtfg%2FU2A1uMec%2BvYrJIrxP5xbJXjE8GqBvQWwUVgS8t1QsXwGDqOi%2FJZsi4P0GIXyLKxjBYb3IZP4F%2BdZ8V3AIf9stOLgmQHSNZ3kmEgB8Ebd5jh7yf8bRtvp1Asc98h6RLMQugz5cnlJTsHXvuM22fIswWKbmtXABfN51fyOIWeM5OqO0Urj%2BsOSyDHSnk1E1FeQafThezKEeQ155pEVa8N62Df%2BDSNZ2wxfT|tkp%3ABk9SR4Diifu6Zg

"This is a testament to your test reply of someone's test" , he replied testily.

I think any coin person would have recognised it instantly and been able to find the exact type based on the details that can just about be made out. I'm pleased that I was better at it than millions of dollars of silicon valley AI power. I must admit though, I did use google lens to identify something the other day. 😉 I haven't been that active on the forum for quite a while, and do you know what, it's good to be back!

Hello 🙂 thank you for letting me join the forum. I've been reading through the various posts for the last few weeks. I have recently inherited a number of coins; some of which have been fairly well looked after, some of which are in old, damp albums and some of which are rattling around in boxes and tins. I hope you won't mind me posting a few on here every now and again as I start to sort through them all 😊. At first glance it looks like some of them might be worth a little bit and others are worth nothing more than the enjoyment of looking at them and learning about them. A lot of the ones in albums have gone green! Hopefully there's a photo attached of the better of the storage containers. The coins in these containers are in little velvety trays. Hopefully this all posts correctly! Thank you 🙂.

Both of you are now Enthusiasts, which I know is also below your standing. The default ranks are a bit odd, they go: Newbie, Rookie, Apprentice, Explorer, Contributor, Enthusiast, Collaborator, Community Regular, Rising Star, Proficient, Experienced, Mentor, Veteran, Grand Master. I can change the names and points required, add more etc.

I am looking forward to seeing these!

Aaw thank you 🙂 that acetone tip sounds like a good plan! The old albums are definitely from the 80's because I used to help put the coins into them as my share of the hobby! Some of the coins from the cabinet look absolutely gorgeous - I'm going to do a bit of research to try to figure out what they are and then probably share some photos on here as they're so beautiful to look at 🤩 there's a nice variety of well loved coins (ie pretty worn out!) and barely touched coins. Thank you again!

Hello. Certainly a nice looking coin cabinet. I hope the content is equally high-end! The greenness is caused by PVC, which was a common constituent of plastic coin albums from the 60s to 80s (and sometimes beyond). You may be lucky and be able to remove the mess with acetone, which won't harm the coins.

Thanks Terry, I've added to my rare penny site.

Paddy and others, try dragging an image into a post. Should work now. Here's one such image: (That's a still from a Blue Peter episode where they used 2 of my coin images in a Penny Farthing Bicycle feature - earned me a Blue Peter badge!)

I have one listed on ebay at the moment. The same short sea/rock formation, repaired E's, die cracks. Ebay item#: 326743200377

I get rejected on about 3/4 of the replies I try to post. If it comes to users chipping in to help funding the forum, I'm sure most would be amenable, but then it constitutes a contract, so would require both parties to accept both funding and a prompt fix. Funnily enough, this one posted, but no attachments.

Anyone with a correctly spelt legend on William III obverses, please make yourselves known now. It seems easier to find an error than a correct legend in this time period. Yet another to add to the list.

Sticking my neck out even further, looking again at the third short cross I think that the first letter of the moneyer isn't an R (it doesn't look at all like the R of NOR), but it looks (more) like a W. Then the letter before the cut, which would probably be the third letter in the moneyer's name) looks like the foot of an L. So that leaves Walter and Willelm, with Willelm class 1a or 1b being the most likely because the L of Walter usually occurs in the second quarter of the coin rather than the first. Oh and it's Henry II. I don't think I can get much further with this one...

Excellent stuff! 👏👏👏👏

The coin attached is not the prettiest coin in the world with the speckled toning. Nevertheless it's in the higher grades and a brief dip in Goddards may improve its apperance. Any thoughts?

Something else of interest, and pertinent . And No, my dad was not involved in the invasion. He was assigned elsewhere.

Ok - as a try and for want of anything else to post, a picture of my Grandfather's WW2 medals: Yes! Worked fine.

Not at all, thank you and so many others. Still not there yet with the dragging image into post error issue, but I'm making slow progress - I think. It also affects the customisation of pages and keeps booting me out behind the scenes, very annoying.

It was supposed to be a simple case of copying some files from here to there and then running an 'upgrade' script, but of course it became an 8 hour ordeal just to get things into a state where it would even allow me to run the upgrade script, with just blank failure shown on screen and mostly unhelpful messages if at all. Emails to and from my host and a support request with the Invision forum people, plus me baffooning around trying to change random settings that I read online had helped for a bloke called Keith in a similar but different situation and here we are! It's all upgraded so hopefully it now works flawlessly in every respect. What definitely no longer works in the rest of the predecimal.com site (from the root, i.e. without the /forum bit). That wasn't really doing much and the aim is to now move the forum over to the root so that predecimal.com is just the forum. I'll also change that old banner stuff at the top and maybe add some extra info about predecimal.com, but first, let's see how all this new software and stuff works.

You really need a set of jewellery scales. EBay have loads for less than £5. A cheap vernier caliper would also be useful for measuring your coins. Also £5-£6.

Not a penny as it is dated. Can't determine denomination without other measurements ideally weight, but certainly diameter.

If in doubt, the first post of call would be weight. You can lose pieces off the flan, but unless obviously half a coin and therefore half the full weight it would almost always be within 5-10% window either side of nominal unless it has serious corrosion issues. Coins were worth their precious metal value, because they defined it. Sure there are exceptions, that's what knowledgeable people are for, but in the main aren't required for basic spadework.

Yes, definitely a penny. Both three half pence and three farthings would be dated.

Cross Crosslet Penny 👍

I must say I have to agree with Coinery - whilst there were many high quality contemporary forgeries, it really does look pretty genuine; don't know offhand what a correct weight should be, though... One other possibility is that it is actually genuine and that some foreign matter got mixed into the molten silver when the blanks were made and it is this that has subsequently made the missing sliver of surface silver fall off during its life, a bit like a lamination flaw. To be absolutely definitive, it would need to be seen in the flesh by someone competent.

I have to say, whilst I can’t explain away the flaw/issue, I feel the coin looks genuine to me…at least as much as studying an image can conclude. What about weight?

A very good quality silver plated/clad forgery, unfortunately. The area of damage is where the silver surface has been broken away, revealing the base metal (a copper alloy) underneath.

Very nearly EF in my opinion

Good very fine.

Sad to hear. As you will recall olive oil has an acidic pH and so not for lustrous copper coinage as you've found out.

If the coin is not high grade and is very dirty, then cleaning it is OK. But you need to be very careful with high grade examples. For high grades, dabbing with a cotton bud soaked in acetone should be fine, but don't rub, as this will cause hairlines.

Your Mother was right....:-)

I have only ever posted .jpg and my recent success was also.jpg. There is not difference between .jpeg and .jpg. This is what Google has to say: "There is no practical difference between JPEG and JPG files; they both refer to the same image file format created by the Joint Photographic Experts Group. The shorter, three-letter "JPG" extension originated from a legacy limitation in older versions of Microsoft Windows, which only allowed three-character file extensions. Modern operating systems no longer have this limitation, so most applications can open and interpret both file extensions interchangeably, making them identical in function. "

This is one of the other coins that came with it. Also Mauryan Ashoka c200BC and a more reasonable size at 15mm across.

A nice penny from Ebay, 34 Euro including postage. Considerable residual lustre that doesnt seem to show in the pics - nicer in the hand! Jerry

My latest purchase, and a farthing error I have never seen before, or even seen recorded. It is an 1874H with the O in Victoria having been repunched sideways. Similar to the G/G but with the O this time. I would be interested in knowing if anyone else has seen this variety recorded before. I am unaware of it in any of the Colin Cooke catalogues etc. It is instantly apparent when holding the coin even without a lens

heres a nice Gs over

That's a nice find. I couldn't see the same overstrike on any of mine, but I did find this: the C in "Victoria" struck over another C: