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Inherited some coins, would be great if someone could give me insight into the value of these coin!

You have done very very well! Edward VII halfcrowns in high grades are worth good money. Let me get the least valuable out of the way first: the two 1902 coins might just about get £100 each, the 1910 perhaps £250, though more to the right buyer. All but two of the others - 1906/7/8/9 - would be worth at least £300-£400 each, maybe more if we could see bigger pictures (the difference between EF and Uncirculated is the difference between e.g. £300 and £700). Now for the best news: the 1904 - if nearer to UNC than EF has got to be worth well over £1000. The 1903 is the rarest (after 1905 which you don't have); it may have been cleaned, but should still be worth between £1500 and £2500, though it would be good to see bigger pictures. Can you post a larger picture of each coin? You'll need to make several posts to get round the size limit for each separate post.

I am delighted to share with you my most recent discovery ! I still cant believe it. I search to the point I literally become so sick and tired and just as I'm about to have a break as I cant take no more....... I find something like this, then the motivation is completely replenished. £16 with postage.... I feel a bit bad if im honest, I wouldnt call the seller a dealer but looking at the inventory not sure how they missed this one. I have only included part image of the coin as I would like to let the dust settle, I dont want the UK seller to get wind of it. In time I will share the complete coin.

Well Done again! If I was you I would buy a national lottery ticket, about the same odds!

That's an amazing stroke of luck to find an Freeman 90 unattributed. I've been collecting for twenty years and have made some fantastic finds , but have never seen an F90 for sale any where other than in a specialist auction . I have though had the luck back in January to find an 1897 F148 in AU condition after searching all that time. Examples turn up but normally in poor condition . My example is pictured below. But good luck with your quest to find an example of all Victoria pennies as some are thought to be unique , such as the F19 1861 2+F

For me the new posts are at the top, below any ‘sticky’ posts so it must be possible. Or you can always click ‘unread posts’ top right. Jerry

I have added the F90 to my website - let me know if you would like a personal attribution.

Ah ! So prompted by Paddy I delved back into a box of duplicates, high grades & oddities that are to good to part with, I wasn't sure if I had any variations of the 1887 Shilling, I don't have the young head, only the second portrait.....none in the duplicate box...aha I did find another 1872 this one has the Die No 29....Memo: this was kept as at some point you could be assed to move the coins to create a space so Die No 29 will slot in with the other 1872.....!?!? it also has a deformed N in Britanniar .... ....Yes a Rabbit Hole...but its a ocd world I seem to be living in.... 😟

What the heck, Im just going to share it ! So pleased it's the reverse which is in better condition. I know on these rarities grade is kind of irrelevant but what is your opinion please? Thanks

Using a bain-marie and a thermometer. The temperature fluctuated between 85 and 95°C.

Not an error mentioned in Withers for your Edward I - there’s an unbarred TAII mentioned for Edward II, but that’s all. I can have a look to see what North has, but that’ll have to wait for now as I’m off to work.

Welcome @D.Urra, Unlike your lovely EVII half crowns, these Victoria pennies are almost worthless. Even in great condition they are only worth a little, and those 3 have pretty much had it.

I see no reason not to start with just warm soapy water. Most sticky labels use water based glue. If that does not work, my next try would be alcohol - rubbing alcohol I believe it is called in the US, surgical spirit in the UK. Only if both those failed would I move on to Acetone.

these may be worth a show.... Edward VII & George V British Empire Coins I have a page of these forming...interesting that they come in different Silver Grades not all are .925 .....

Although I do not collect them, I have found the British colonial coinage fascinating over the years. Here are a couple that I still have the pics for:

for me its a real eye opener ..... the earliest one I have is 1822 George IIII, 1/16th Dollar, West Indies. .892 silver, It made me realise that a lot of these have been rejected by others because for not being British coins and so written off as being foreign...... I have over the years found in the Hoard Box a couple of William IIII, 1835, 1/4 Rupee, East India Company, .917 Silver & 1836 1/2 Guilder, Guiana, .8166 Silver (Minted for only one year and classed as being quite rare) the rest I have found to be Victorian, Edward VII, George V, from all over, Canada, India, Mauritius, China, Ceylon, Cyprus, Australia, East Africa & West Africa...... beginning to put these in date order in a sleeve....

Thanks for that. I just checked and it seems that the posts are now showing new posts first. I must have clicked something I shouldn't have. Thank you.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/147009740851?itmmeta=01KMKDV8RNEHQCJBB1GEVKHXY1&hash=item223a76a033:g:EKkAAeSwLENpMe6u

You mention dealers listing the coin in error, in my spreadsheet I have this image which I made which may help you id the type in poor condition and or poor photos in the sellers listing

Congrats. That's a great win. I have similarly been spending hours over several years looking for some varieties, such as high tide 1897 penny. With those, even some attributed (in TPG slabs) are incorrect, let alone dozens of dealers who list it as such, erroneously. With so many bad listings of it, I feel even less likely to find an actual one unattributed. But I keep looking, in madness, haha. I may break down and buy a correctly identified one, even with the markup. I feel aside from maybe 1902, most of the rarer tide variants will just be too tough to acquire, otherwise, esp where I am located.

I also was thinking of starting simple, with mild warm, soapy water, too, then advancing from there. I am waiting for it to come in the mail, but will try to remember to update here. I am excited to revive this beauty. For anyone curious, link to see pictures of both sides, due picture limitation here https://www.pcgs.com/cert/50443898

I paid $115 incl BP, tax and shipping, so I feel I got it pretty cheap, at least for over here. It has some wear and marks, but overall fairly good condition. It definitely felt worth the gamble to restore it. I think it scared off most bidders, which I was fine with. I am also surprised the grading company did not demand restoration fees, as sometimes I have heard they do.

Incidentally, when you did your initial experiment - 100 minutes at 90C - how did you achieve this temperature control?

This experiment was with 5% sesquicarbonate at room temperature for 6 hours. The green spots have gone but the coin looks stripped and cleaned. I'm going to try 2% at room temperature with a shorter contact time.

Hello, I received the attached coin in an unidentified auction lot today and am confused by the reverse legend. To my eye it is a Group 3 (but this I am not sure of and need to spend more time having a closer look). I think the reverse reads CIVI / TAN / CAN / TOR . Where the error is that usually TAN reads TAS. Is this an error that comes up? Maybe the lower literacy when the coin was struck caused this? Thanks for any help or information you can provide.

I think it’s more likely a Class 4 btw…that looks like a long contraction mark into the R and I reckon that’s a Class 4c crown with the nick in the left band.

I would use WD40. Give it a good soaking and it will just lift away.

I do like the eagle on the 19C Reich Marks. Those used in the 1950s features starving birds. The American coins also feature good eagles.

Just revisiting my 1858 5/3 or 5/2, perhaps this was Bramah 25B. Pic attached. Note the limb to the left of the top loop of the 8. Jerry

Yes, some people continue to describe an 1858 5/3 for various nondescript overstrikes, doubling etc but it has long been suspected that a genuine 5/3 doesn’t exist. Perhaps likely candidate for Bramah 25B 5/3 is what Gouby describes as 5/? with the protrusion on the left within the lower loop of the 8. There has been suggestion that 25B is over a 2, though of course 1852 pennies were never issued and the survival of an 1852 die for six years until use is also unlikely. That doesn’t eliminate the possibility of an erroneous digit punch being used in a die repair though. Jerry

Dansco 7070 is pretty much the standard. They have been back in print, so a lot more reasonable than a few years ago, but yes, still expensive. Are you against importing from the US? I'd think some eBay sellers are willing to ship there. Whitman made similar albums (not the cheap folder types), but I'm not sure they are made anymore. Littleton may have a ripoff of the Dansco, but I don't know if they do international post. You could probably get one of us in the US to relay it, but I imagine, if you're willing to ship from US, lots of sellers are willing. Found an old Whitman basic type set. Pretty sure they don't print it currently, but this is (I'm assuming) what you'd be looking for. I do not see any on eBay presently. When they pop up, some people do price gouging. https://www.mercari.com/us/item/m20076526228?sv=0

Sometimes wipes only show up in certain angles. A friend recently got a German piece from Künker in which pics and description say nothing of cleaning, but he shared a video where it's clear. Hairlines over both the fields and devices. He's pretty unhappy about it, obviously. It's the sort of thing that lead to TPGs becoming so popular here in the US. That and whizzing being so popular here for a time. Künker is a really big AH, with hammers averaging more than 2.5x of estimates.

@PWA 1967 The coin on left here is the one you have.

Its the same one that sold at LCA a few years ago and can see a large picture of the reverse on there website.

The problem with all lower grades is that it is subject to the degree of dishing to the flan. The dies always seem to have a more dished reverse (probably by design to see the date (as opposed to the monarch which is easily discernible from the profile. The less dishing, the more even the wear. Whatever, Fine for me too on the obverse, the reverse inevitably better - say good Fine or nVF.

I tried to line it up squarely

I purchased this coin for 6 pound 🙂, so cant be too upset for the light cleaning and scratches. The actual colour of the coin is typical cleaned bronze colour. Given the cleaning, scratches how would you grade the coin? Many thanks.

Dublin or Waterford. Those are the two Irish mints for farthings of Edward I. Stu.

According to the Proclamation of 30 July 1971, recognition of the silver crown, double florin, florin, shilling and sixpence as currency refers to coins minted after 1870. The florin (1993), shilling (1990) and sixpence (1980) were later demonetised leaving only the crown, double florin and Maundy coins.

Wonderful find - I've added it to my website. Let me know if you would like personal attribution. Regarding grade, I view the grade of a coin to be reflective of the amount of natural wear/circulation; any further damage should be included as a qualifier.

Another trial.

Hello 🙂 thank you for letting me join the forum. I've been reading through the various posts for the last few weeks. I have recently inherited a number of coins; some of which have been fairly well looked after, some of which are in old, damp albums and some of which are rattling around in boxes and tins. I hope you won't mind me posting a few on here every now and again as I start to sort through them all 😊. At first glance it looks like some of them might be worth a little bit and others are worth nothing more than the enjoyment of looking at them and learning about them. A lot of the ones in albums have gone green! Hopefully there's a photo attached of the better of the storage containers. The coins in these containers are in little velvety trays. Hopefully this all posts correctly! Thank you 🙂.

Faked coins are made both in Silver and in base metal. In some ways the base metal ones are easier to spot as a simple silver test gives them away. 19th century coins are much faked and the "best" of them are very difficult to spot. There was a discussion on here several years ago about 1818 Half Crowns. A number of apparently excellent condition examples turned up in quick succession. They were all fakes, but the only sure way to spot them is that they all had identical dents and marks! As to the auction houses to avoid - impossible to say. Even the best houses have been caught with fakes in the past.

found in my box amongst the other unidentified hammered silver coins... yet to be identified...!?! is its possible that this could be .... Medieval Crusader Coin Bronze Denier or Follis... issued by Tancred of Antioch 1101-1112....?

Ever since Michael Freeman gave a degree of "validation" to this sort of flaw by recording the 1897 Dot as F147, more and more examples have been found. The following is an excerpt from the page on Dot pennies on my rarest pennies site. https://rarestpennies.wordpress.com/scarce-dot-pennies/ There are many examples of pennies with small raised circular “dots” on either the obverse or reverse, now thought to be caused by a rust spot on a working die which eventually is removed by successive strikes leaving an incuse area which produces the raised flaw when creating the coin (see my article in Coin News June 2022 quoting Paul Holland's investigations into the cause).

Some small coins that I've been checking this afternoon 🙂 we have an 1817 sixpence, an 1843 fourpence, a 1912 threepence and an 1876 third farthing. I think they're all pretty decent grade wise; the photos are okay but not amazing 😅.

I think you have ‘hit the nail on the head’ with this comment Richard. If I was ever to attempt to re-categorise the Young Head penny series I think I would steer away from using date widths, and as far as date varieties are concerned would concentrate instead on the different numeral font types. If date widths are used then where do you draw the line in your collection, because ‘in my experience’ every die has numerals in slightly different positions? Using the above Long numeral 7 as an example, which only represents less than 10% of the entire 1857 population, I have found 5 different obverse dies, all with slightly different positions for the 57. In fact without the use of a digital microscope you would be hard pushed to know they were all struck from different dies………….fortunately they all have die flaws in different locations which makes life easier.