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Inherited some coins, would be great if someone could give me insight into the value of these coin!

You have done very very well! Edward VII halfcrowns in high grades are worth good money. Let me get the least valuable out of the way first: the two 1902 coins might just about get £100 each, the 1910 perhaps £250, though more to the right buyer. All but two of the others - 1906/7/8/9 - would be worth at least £300-£400 each, maybe more if we could see bigger pictures (the difference between EF and Uncirculated is the difference between e.g. £300 and £700). Now for the best news: the 1904 - if nearer to UNC than EF has got to be worth well over £1000. The 1903 is the rarest (after 1905 which you don't have); it may have been cleaned, but should still be worth between £1500 and £2500, though it would be good to see bigger pictures. Can you post a larger picture of each coin? You'll need to make several posts to get round the size limit for each separate post.

Not an error mentioned in Withers for your Edward I - there’s an unbarred TAII mentioned for Edward II, but that’s all. I can have a look to see what North has, but that’ll have to wait for now as I’m off to work.

Welcome @D.Urra, Unlike your lovely EVII half crowns, these Victoria pennies are almost worthless. Even in great condition they are only worth a little, and those 3 have pretty much had it.

these may be worth a show.... Edward VII & George V British Empire Coins I have a page of these forming...interesting that they come in different Silver Grades not all are .925 .....

Although I do not collect them, I have found the British colonial coinage fascinating over the years. Here are a couple that I still have the pics for:

for me its a real eye opener ..... the earliest one I have is 1822 George IIII, 1/16th Dollar, West Indies. .892 silver, It made me realise that a lot of these have been rejected by others because for not being British coins and so written off as being foreign...... I have over the years found in the Hoard Box a couple of William IIII, 1835, 1/4 Rupee, East India Company, .917 Silver & 1836 1/2 Guilder, Guiana, .8166 Silver (Minted for only one year and classed as being quite rare) the rest I have found to be Victorian, Edward VII, George V, from all over, Canada, India, Mauritius, China, Ceylon, Cyprus, Australia, East Africa & West Africa...... beginning to put these in date order in a sleeve....

Hello, I received the attached coin in an unidentified auction lot today and am confused by the reverse legend. To my eye it is a Group 3 (but this I am not sure of and need to spend more time having a closer look). I think the reverse reads CIVI / TAN / CAN / TOR . Where the error is that usually TAN reads TAS. Is this an error that comes up? Maybe the lower literacy when the coin was struck caused this? Thanks for any help or information you can provide.

I enjoy having huge silver coins in my pocket so I added a new one to my “pocket coins” today: a 1971 S proof Eisenhower 40% silver one dollar. It looks fun alongside my 1935 Peace Dollar and 1935 Rocking Horse Crown from the UK. My son was “Oooh! Shiny!” and, yeah, proof coins are cool that way. To protect them I do keep them in encapsulated so that they don’t get scruffed and dinged in my pocket like other circulation coins. Fun stuff

You can see the nick a little easier in this image.

I think it’s more likely a Class 4 btw…that looks like a long contraction mark into the R and I reckon that’s a Class 4c crown with the nick in the left band.

I see no reason not to start with just warm soapy water. Most sticky labels use water based glue. If that does not work, my next try would be alcohol - rubbing alcohol I believe it is called in the US, surgical spirit in the UK. Only if both those failed would I move on to Acetone.

I had an empty row at the bottom of the last page of my shillings, after the 1970 proof coins. So I decided it would be fun to put together some similar sized and valued coins (in terms of buying power then) from earlier in the 20th century. Plus the 5 pence proof from 1990 is in silver as well because that was the last year they were made the same size as the classic shilling and the shilling was finally being demonitized 20 years after decimal day. The other coins are: 1930 US Standing Liberty Quarter 1917 French 1 Franc 1930 Irish 1 Shilling 1917 Italian 1 Lira 1909 Imperial Germany 1 Mark It’s an interesting comparison of economies that the franc, mark & lira are all a single unit of their basic currency, the US is one fourth of a dollar and the shilling was one twentieth of a pound sterling. Though their economy was weaker, Ireland at that time pegged the Punt to the Pound. The US was far stronger than all of mainland Europe but the UK ruled over all until WWI shattered everyone but the US.

I do like the eagle on the 19C Reich Marks. Those used in the 1950s features starving birds. The American coins also feature good eagles.

The florin and shilling would still be with us if the Mint hadn't reduced the size in 1992 and 1990.

Just revisiting my 1858 5/3 or 5/2, perhaps this was Bramah 25B. Pic attached. Note the limb to the left of the top loop of the 8. Jerry

Yes, some people continue to describe an 1858 5/3 for various nondescript overstrikes, doubling etc but it has long been suspected that a genuine 5/3 doesn’t exist. Perhaps likely candidate for Bramah 25B 5/3 is what Gouby describes as 5/? with the protrusion on the left within the lower loop of the 8. There has been suggestion that 25B is over a 2, though of course 1852 pennies were never issued and the survival of an 1852 die for six years until use is also unlikely. That doesn’t eliminate the possibility of an erroneous digit punch being used in a die repair though. Jerry

Dansco 7070 is pretty much the standard. They have been back in print, so a lot more reasonable than a few years ago, but yes, still expensive. Are you against importing from the US? I'd think some eBay sellers are willing to ship there. Whitman made similar albums (not the cheap folder types), but I'm not sure they are made anymore. Littleton may have a ripoff of the Dansco, but I don't know if they do international post. You could probably get one of us in the US to relay it, but I imagine, if you're willing to ship from US, lots of sellers are willing. Found an old Whitman basic type set. Pretty sure they don't print it currently, but this is (I'm assuming) what you'd be looking for. I do not see any on eBay presently. When they pop up, some people do price gouging. https://www.mercari.com/us/item/m20076526228?sv=0

Sometimes wipes only show up in certain angles. A friend recently got a German piece from Künker in which pics and description say nothing of cleaning, but he shared a video where it's clear. Hairlines over both the fields and devices. He's pretty unhappy about it, obviously. It's the sort of thing that lead to TPGs becoming so popular here in the US. That and whizzing being so popular here for a time. Künker is a really big AH, with hammers averaging more than 2.5x of estimates.

@PWA 1967 The coin on left here is the one you have.

Its the same one that sold at LCA a few years ago and can see a large picture of the reverse on there website.

The problem with all lower grades is that it is subject to the degree of dishing to the flan. The dies always seem to have a more dished reverse (probably by design to see the date (as opposed to the monarch which is easily discernible from the profile. The less dishing, the more even the wear. Whatever, Fine for me too on the obverse, the reverse inevitably better - say good Fine or nVF.

I tried to line it up squarely

I have a set from Fiji. Pretty coins. So are my Guernsey and Jersey ones Canadian Centennial set is cool too. I'd like to get a New Guinea, New Zealand, Australia (both .925 & .500), Bahamas dollar, & Bermuda crown type sets eventually. Once those are done, then on to Africa!

I purchased this coin for 6 pound 🙂, so cant be too upset for the light cleaning and scratches. The actual colour of the coin is typical cleaned bronze colour. Given the cleaning, scratches how would you grade the coin? Many thanks.

Dublin or Waterford. Those are the two Irish mints for farthings of Edward I. Stu.

According to the Proclamation of 30 July 1971, recognition of the silver crown, double florin, florin, shilling and sixpence as currency refers to coins minted after 1870. The florin (1993), shilling (1990) and sixpence (1980) were later demonetised leaving only the crown, double florin and Maundy coins.

Brilliant acquisition! especially as you are new to collecting varieties. It took me ~20 years to obtain an example. Your coin overall is a good clear example, well done! best of luck with future variety collecting. Bernie.

Somewhere between 2 and 3 grand I suspect, but could go higher on the day. It’s very difficult to predict for these serious rarities as it depends on the bidding of two people who have a gap to fill and really want it. Jerry

so Ive been having a look around since the suggestion of that it maybe a Irish Farthing coming to light...so could this be. 1 Farthing - Edward I Dublin, Long Cross 1279-1284 I'm writing this down with a Question Mark alongside it.... its great to be able to place information alongside the coins even though its questionable...A huge thanks to Stu for spotting this 🙏

Wonderful find - I've added it to my website. Let me know if you would like personal attribution. Regarding grade, I view the grade of a coin to be reflective of the amount of natural wear/circulation; any further damage should be included as a qualifier.

Strangely, the 1806 is so so common in lower grades but much scarcer than the penny and farthing in top grades.

Thank you for the response. I found the coin early this year by chance. It was the first coin in my collection...! Infact it's because of this coin Im now collecting coins/varieties.. I come across the coin and after researching it I figured it was a rare coin. Since then I have been searching high and low and trying to learn as much as possible. So far I have only been searching for coins that are not listed for sale as varieties, as I'm sure you aware its really addictive the buzz of finding a bargain.

Thank you ! I Just posted another coin. 1874 with some differences to the back of the helmet plume, possible extra plumes, I'm not sure.

Thank you, I was only interested if the differences count as variety. Now its clear this is not the case.

Heres my 1799 a lovely example bought recently at least EF with lustre and no problems only £20 I wish i had a 1806 and 1807 is similar grade

One can born with scars unfortunately. I remember some salesman once said on TV that inclusions in a diamond are a good thing as they give the stone unique character. Who was he kidding? Back to the 1902 matte proof. In my view, the minting process was over when the coins have been struck. The wiping wasn't part of the minting process and was mishandling by workers after minting. The fact that many (but not all) 1902 matt proof have wipe marks do help to make them more tolerable to collectors but you won't find many people thinking the marks are a positive feature. If you buy a modern commemorative coin from the Royal Mint today and it comes with a fingerprint, you would immediately return it due to mishandling in the mint.

There's that semicircular patch under the chin could be due to anything . I think I have said this before. When I look at my silver bits and pieces they start to tarnish (tone) after a month or so. How a 100 year old coin put away remain bright and shiny without some form of cleaning beats me. A obviously cleaned coin with abrasion marks is certainly devalued however a bright shiny 100 year coin attracts little comment for the most part while a toned coin excite some collectors although this is corrosion silver being attacked by oxygen and sulfur in the atmosphere in exactly the same way as iron and steel rust. Perhaps collectors are too picky with non abrasive cleaning such as Goddards or the Al foil/ bicarbonate methods of cleaning, I have seen coins with very heavy toning come to life with judicious dipping and IMO should not be considered as devalued in some way. Having said that any cleaning should be aproached with caution.

I think you have ‘hit the nail on the head’ with this comment Richard. If I was ever to attempt to re-categorise the Young Head penny series I think I would steer away from using date widths, and as far as date varieties are concerned would concentrate instead on the different numeral font types. If date widths are used then where do you draw the line in your collection, because ‘in my experience’ every die has numerals in slightly different positions? Using the above Long numeral 7 as an example, which only represents less than 10% of the entire 1857 population, I have found 5 different obverse dies, all with slightly different positions for the 57. In fact without the use of a digital microscope you would be hard pushed to know they were all struck from different dies………….fortunately they all have die flaws in different locations which makes life easier.

Any opinions how to clean this sticker/tape residue off of a copper coin? Cartwheel Twopence. It is graded as AU details tape residue, I plan to crack it from the slab and remove the gunk, if feasible. Sticker looks like a tenaciously tacky price sticker, which did not fully come off. Thanks to some clueless antiques dealer or estate sale, is my best guess. Stranger still, was it getting graded in this state. I have a few ideas for removal, but posting around various places to see what ideas and insights other people may have. Copper is much tricker than silver, it is quite reactive. It may take short durations of acetone, but no long soaks, which would be easy and useful for silver. I am leaning toward Hoppes #9 Gun Bore Cleaner, maybe quick passes with acetone, rinsed with RO water, blotted dry.

Not likely to show up in the UK, but just in case... I have an acquaintance who's father was awarded this medal for his work in creating the Clad Metal system used to replace Silver in US Coins (dime, quarter, half dollar and dollar). It went missing from a drawer in his apartment shortly before he died in December. If by any chance you see it, please let me know. Thank you.