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Well Done again! If I was you I would buy a national lottery ticket, about the same odds!

Inherited some coins, would be great if someone could give me insight into the value of these coin!

Definitely NOT an H. As you can see from Secret Santa's post above too, the H if present is smaller than the smudge/toning/anomaly you have where the H would be. Many times we all wish the presence of something and convince ourselves from a humble picture that a smudge or blob just might be the magic thing! I myself must have bought over the years half a dozen 1863 pennies with "something" perhaps below the date which just might possibly have been a die number with a fair wind behind. Needless to say of course, none of them were!!

You have done very very well! Edward VII halfcrowns in high grades are worth good money. Let me get the least valuable out of the way first: the two 1902 coins might just about get £100 each, the 1910 perhaps £250, though more to the right buyer. All but two of the others - 1906/7/8/9 - would be worth at least £300-£400 each, maybe more if we could see bigger pictures (the difference between EF and Uncirculated is the difference between e.g. £300 and £700). Now for the best news: the 1904 - if nearer to UNC than EF has got to be worth well over £1000. The 1903 is the rarest (after 1905 which you don't have); it may have been cleaned, but should still be worth between £1500 and £2500, though it would be good to see bigger pictures. Can you post a larger picture of each coin? You'll need to make several posts to get round the size limit for each separate post.

On a relatively high grade penny like that, the H would show strongly. What you've got there is a ghostly anomaly, and I'd agree - no H

I can’t see an H either. I think there may be a blemish in there that the brain may try to interpret as something meaningful, especially if one is looking for it. Like the image of Jesus in a slice of toast or an alien face on Mars.

I am delighted to share with you my most recent discovery ! I still cant believe it. I search to the point I literally become so sick and tired and just as I'm about to have a break as I cant take no more....... I find something like this, then the motivation is completely replenished. £16 with postage.... I feel a bit bad if im honest, I wouldnt call the seller a dealer but looking at the inventory not sure how they missed this one. I have only included part image of the coin as I would like to let the dust settle, I dont want the UK seller to get wind of it. In time I will share the complete coin.

They’re going to ruin that 100% positive feedback with that 😆

That's an amazing stroke of luck to find an Freeman 90 unattributed. I've been collecting for twenty years and have made some fantastic finds , but have never seen an F90 for sale any where other than in a specialist auction . I have though had the luck back in January to find an 1897 F148 in AU condition after searching all that time. Examples turn up but normally in poor condition . My example is pictured below. But good luck with your quest to find an example of all Victoria pennies as some are thought to be unique , such as the F19 1861 2+F

Great Collections has responded to me, and accolades to them for being receptive and ethical.

I would say it's an F82. The figure 5 is more upright on the 1875H.

FWIW I don’t think it’s an H, just an anomaly of toning and surface metal. The big issue is, if you’re going to call that an H, you then have to have an explanation for the Triangular shape that’s hovering between the digits?

Images, photos, etc, can be deceptive and not necessarily deliberately. The best determinant is studying the coin in hand.

Thank you both for the orders. wlewisiii, I'll sort you out with a PDF of the Irish book over email.

Can also clearly see the 'WRL' on the reverse. Westair Reproductions Ltd, I think. They make replicas for museum gift shops etc and they always have WRL stamped on them.

For me the new posts are at the top, below any ‘sticky’ posts so it must be possible. Or you can always click ‘unread posts’ top right. Jerry

Did you order via: https://coinpublications.com/product/the-bronze-coinage-of-great-britain-freeman/ If so, it'll be reasonably fast. I have a few in Germany that I use to fulfil international orders, as postage is much cheaper from here. The UK warehouse has 2 or 3 left at the moment and I just ordered a small re-print yesterday, so with any luck no one will notice the gap.

I have added the F90 to my website - let me know if you would like a personal attribution.

Ah ! So prompted by Paddy I delved back into a box of duplicates, high grades & oddities that are to good to part with, I wasn't sure if I had any variations of the 1887 Shilling, I don't have the young head, only the second portrait.....none in the duplicate box...aha I did find another 1872 this one has the Die No 29....Memo: this was kept as at some point you could be assed to move the coins to create a space so Die No 29 will slot in with the other 1872.....!?!? it also has a deformed N in Britanniar .... ....Yes a Rabbit Hole...but its a ocd world I seem to be living in.... 😟

What the heck, Im just going to share it ! So pleased it's the reverse which is in better condition. I know on these rarities grade is kind of irrelevant but what is your opinion please? Thanks

Using a bain-marie and a thermometer. The temperature fluctuated between 85 and 95°C.

I enjoy having huge silver coins in my pocket so I added a new one to my “pocket coins” today: a 1971 S proof Eisenhower 40% silver one dollar. It looks fun alongside my 1935 Peace Dollar and 1935 Rocking Horse Crown from the UK. My son was “Oooh! Shiny!” and, yeah, proof coins are cool that way. To protect them I do keep them in encapsulated so that they don’t get scruffed and dinged in my pocket like other circulation coins. Fun stuff

Not an error mentioned in Withers for your Edward I - there’s an unbarred TAII mentioned for Edward II, but that’s all. I can have a look to see what North has, but that’ll have to wait for now as I’m off to work.

Welcome @D.Urra, Unlike your lovely EVII half crowns, these Victoria pennies are almost worthless. Even in great condition they are only worth a little, and those 3 have pretty much had it.

I see no reason not to start with just warm soapy water. Most sticky labels use water based glue. If that does not work, my next try would be alcohol - rubbing alcohol I believe it is called in the US, surgical spirit in the UK. Only if both those failed would I move on to Acetone.

I'm pleased to share with this 1875H coin I have just purchased. (I think the seller missed the H) In your opinion what is the grade please of this coin, my gut feeling is GVF/GVF I'm inexperienced and am a bit lost when it comes to grading. There is rim damage and a few stains, you can also just some some luster around some of the legends. I know the following is only a basic guide but its difficult for me to be sure how the coins grades. 1) VF-20 We start to see all major line in the hair. The thistle and shamrock decorations starts to appear. Clearly readable but lightly worn legends, illustrations show good detail, rims are clean, but the whole coin shows moderate wear on the high points. 2) EF-40 Hair lines are mostly sharp and distinct except above forehead. The rose, thistle and shamrock decorations are visible. Legends are sharp, illustrations are clear with slight but obvious wear on the high points. 3) AU-50 Hair above forehead are visible and dress details are distinct. Sharp legends and illustrations show only a trace of wear on the highest points. There must be some remaining mint luster." Note inside the bottom of the Letter O in One the small flat part which does not appear to be damage. I would be grateful to hear opinions please. Thanks.

I noticed that Britannia's foot is also closer to the denticles on the High Tide. Obviously the tides are different, even if i did not scale the pictures exactly the same. Using the two PCGS examples, both correctly, and (IMO) incorrectly attributed.

It could be a filled die but I am not convinced of the presence of an ‘H’. Either way, I would want a clear cut example for my collection rather than one that will likely remain uncertain. In terms of grade, don’t confuse the UK grading system with the US Sheldon scale; their AU is more akin to our EF and their EF40 is about our VF. The book you need is https://coinpublications.com/product/the-standard-guide-to-grading-british-coins/ Jerry

Its one of the most mis attributed types you see , nearly all the so could high tide examples on E.bay are incorrect . The best way to tell is by the stem of the P in Penny which on the High Tide points to the Gap [space] between the teeth, on all the others it points to the Tooth.

Agreed; not high tide.

I am no expert on these but by comparing with @secret santa's site I would agree, this is not High tide. I see there is a link on the PCGS page to report errors - is that worth a try?

I found another graded example (PCGS this time), which i believe to be misattributed. Can other please confirm or deny my suspicion? https://www.pcgs.com/cert/56163554

I also was thinking of starting simple, with mild warm, soapy water, too, then advancing from there. I am waiting for it to come in the mail, but will try to remember to update here. I am excited to revive this beauty. For anyone curious, link to see pictures of both sides, due picture limitation here https://www.pcgs.com/cert/50443898

This experiment was with 5% sesquicarbonate at room temperature for 6 hours. The green spots have gone but the coin looks stripped and cleaned. I'm going to try 2% at room temperature with a shorter contact time.

The 1887 shilling is the commonest of the Jubilee head shillings as it was the first year of issue and many were put aside as souvenirs. The lower one is in much better condition than the other. There are variations to watch out for, which I am not up on, so I would leave it to others to identify if you have any there. Value is better than silver value (0.925), but I have not watched these dates at auction for some years, so hopefully someone else can chip in.

Hello, I received the attached coin in an unidentified auction lot today and am confused by the reverse legend. To my eye it is a Group 3 (but this I am not sure of and need to spend more time having a closer look). I think the reverse reads CIVI / TAN / CAN / TOR . Where the error is that usually TAN reads TAS. Is this an error that comes up? Maybe the lower literacy when the coin was struck caused this? Thanks for any help or information you can provide.

Olive oil classically treats verdigris, without damaging the rest of the coin, so maybe it will soften and loosen the tape glue, agian without doing any real harm. On the other hand, if the tape has been stuck on for a while, it is possible that it has already damaged the surface, and removal will simply show this up. You pays your money and .......

I simply cannot believe that a) someone submitted that for grading with sticky tape attached and b) that a grading company actually slabbed it along with the tape and graded it as ‘details!’ I personally wouldn’t be afraid at all of giving that a clean with as much acetone as is needed. Apply it with a Q-tip. You may have yourself a bargain there!

I had an empty row at the bottom of the last page of my shillings, after the 1970 proof coins. So I decided it would be fun to put together some similar sized and valued coins (in terms of buying power then) from earlier in the 20th century. Plus the 5 pence proof from 1990 is in silver as well because that was the last year they were made the same size as the classic shilling and the shilling was finally being demonitized 20 years after decimal day. The other coins are: 1930 US Standing Liberty Quarter 1917 French 1 Franc 1930 Irish 1 Shilling 1917 Italian 1 Lira 1909 Imperial Germany 1 Mark It’s an interesting comparison of economies that the franc, mark & lira are all a single unit of their basic currency, the US is one fourth of a dollar and the shilling was one twentieth of a pound sterling. Though their economy was weaker, Ireland at that time pegged the Punt to the Pound. The US was far stronger than all of mainland Europe but the UK ruled over all until WWI shattered everyone but the US.

Just one of the ubiquitous modern replicas... Not even good enough to fool anyone except an idiot. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/406789410745?_skw=406789410745&itmmeta=01KMAVAFKDNTTGCHV256D0YB2K&hash=item5eb689cfb9:g:95IAAeSwS5ZpvvKF&itmprp=enc%3AAQALAAAA0GfYFPkwiKCW4ZNSs2u11xBUXE%2BOaPHIv8uZXkMDusPtlLW3mKOT4AlbEkZlhYUSQf3ssm3Ki9cgqJyg%2FRy0CFuTTQ%2B27w6xt%2FDJHPkYlLSOUmbK2SYJqHN89UMFJvkaC%2BbtCI9b%2FdOAqtk14AxXA%2Fr1tEoxf3UHg04Jouny2X02ErsROqmKw3lh8h3eW645zAiFS0kEbugMTlsMpMQf1YE6rgBNnkuzLi%2FDevGJQ%2FH7bOyzmpQR3oK6TuV%2B6Q0mBaRRMZksZwNGHusaKSdlB3M%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR-L5qduiZw

Just revisiting my 1858 5/3 or 5/2, perhaps this was Bramah 25B. Pic attached. Note the limb to the left of the top loop of the 8. Jerry

One can born with scars unfortunately. I remember some salesman once said on TV that inclusions in a diamond are a good thing as they give the stone unique character. Who was he kidding? Back to the 1902 matte proof. In my view, the minting process was over when the coins have been struck. The wiping wasn't part of the minting process and was mishandling by workers after minting. The fact that many (but not all) 1902 matt proof have wipe marks do help to make them more tolerable to collectors but you won't find many people thinking the marks are a positive feature. If you buy a modern commemorative coin from the Royal Mint today and it comes with a fingerprint, you would immediately return it due to mishandling in the mint.

There's that semicircular patch under the chin could be due to anything . I think I have said this before. When I look at my silver bits and pieces they start to tarnish (tone) after a month or so. How a 100 year old coin put away remain bright and shiny without some form of cleaning beats me. A obviously cleaned coin with abrasion marks is certainly devalued however a bright shiny 100 year coin attracts little comment for the most part while a toned coin excite some collectors although this is corrosion silver being attacked by oxygen and sulfur in the atmosphere in exactly the same way as iron and steel rust. Perhaps collectors are too picky with non abrasive cleaning such as Goddards or the Al foil/ bicarbonate methods of cleaning, I have seen coins with very heavy toning come to life with judicious dipping and IMO should not be considered as devalued in some way. Having said that any cleaning should be aproached with caution.

I know we have had a lot of talk recently about grading companies and their abilities, and this is an example which I feel demonstrates that the companies in the US are great with US coins but not with UK coins. There is currently an auction on ebay for a slabbed 1860 mule, which caught my attention. The price looked reasonable for a slabbed 1860 mule which was showing signs of lustre, but it was difficult to confirm the variety from the existing images. I enquired about better images of the coin and in the sellers defense he provided them very quickly and courteously. The issue is that it is my opinion that this is a toothed/toothed border farthing which it would appear has been incorrectly slabbed by PCGS (a verification check on the cert number does show this to be in the PCGS database as a mule). It does not bear the signs of a beaded border reverse and the single rock to the left of the lighthouse confirms this fact. I write this post to try and inform potential buyers of my opinion, and I have written to the seller in the hopes that by showing comparisons he will agree with the error and pursue this with PCGS.

I really did not want to weigh in anymore on this subject inasmuch as my purchasing and returning the coin speaks for itself..... However, I think some of the focus is being lost, although Bob C. (RLC35) has made an attempt to place this subject back on track.... The question is, as I see it, "Is the coin an Mule (TB/BB) or not... As the Royal Mint used ONLY Round Beaded Border reverse or Toothed Beaded Border reverse, and at NO time ever used a PARTIALLY BEADED BORDER reverse, the question to be answered is which variety this is.... Creating a NEW name of a reverse to address a specific situation does NOT resolve this question. Calling a duck a swan, does not make it so. In the interest of full disclosure, I believe there has been a recent discovery of a Mule (TB/BB) struck with an Obverse 3 die (instead of the documented Obverse 2), but with the same Reverse A... As the question regarding THIS coin involves the REVERSE, the subject is moot. This coin needs to be examined without the slab, by someone who specializes in this subject, and whose expertise is uninmpeachable. (Michael Freeman has been suggested, and as a impartial observer whose book is considered the BIBLE of Bronze coinage, is an excellent choice), If indeed, after the coin is examined, the determination is that the coin IS a mule, as PCGS has certified on two occasions, then the coin MUST be accepted as such by all, with apologies in order to the OWNER/SELLER and to PCGS..... More importantly, to both the current owner and/or any potential buyer; should, after EXPERT examination, the determination be that the coin is NOT the certified variety; WILL PCGS GUARANTEE THE COIN AND PURCHASE IT BACK????? If PCGS stands by its current assessment of the coin (certified as a MULE TB/BB) and an interested party purchases the coin and has it examined by ACKNOWLEDGED & RESPECTED EXPERTS (such as Michael Freeman, the staff of Colin Cooke, the British Museum, the Royal Mint, etc), and their determination is that the coin is NOT the certified variety; WILL PCGS GUARANTEE THE COIN AND PURCHASE IT BACK????? It all boils down to whether PCGS will guarantee 100% that this coin IS a TB/BB mule, or will PCGS attempt to create a NEW variety, "Toothed / PARTIAL Beaded Border", a variety that does not exist and was never struck, to explain something that is most likely merely the result of as worn die...... A decision that would be viewed as a "cop-out" or evading the issue by most collectors, and would not instill confidence in the numismatic community. Another question arises as a result of the dispute regarding this coin. Inasmuch as a severe doubt has been placed upon the accuracy of this certification and has therefore hindered the sale of an EXTREMELY RARE COIN IN EXCEPTIONALLY CHOICE CONDITION: Will PCGS arrange for an EXPERT ( or EXPERTS), knowledgeable in this series, impartial to the controversy, whose determination would be unimpeachable, to examine this coin, outside of the slab, AND to accept his/her/their decision as absolute??? And, should that determination be that the coin is NOT as certified, will PCGS stand by its GUARANTEE and purchase the coin back from the owner at its fair market value??? Or will PCGS stand behind its Grade Designation (not in question or disputed) and claim that the INCORRECT VARIETY designation was a "Clerical Error"??? Another decision that would be viewed as a "cop-out" and would not instill confidence in the numismatic community. At this juncture, I believe the time is right and the neccessity exists for PCGS to state, in public, in UNEQUIVOCAL and UNAMBIGUOUS terms, exactly what its guarantee is regarding this coin, so as to provide, ANY and ALL, past, present, and future owners of this coin the peace of mind that their investment in a RARE coin is secure as to designation......

Ron, It is always encouraging to see personal representation especially from a large company like yourselves, and it really is a move to be commended. I can appreciate your comments about the "toothed/beaded" border designation, and the fact that it is not immediately clear, but the two different reverses that the major references class as toothed or beaded do have differences. When looking at a number of these farthings, it does become clearly apparent that a coin is either the toothed or beaded variety, even down to grades as low as fine. Historically in literature this has always been defined by the 3 rocks to the left of the lighthouse instead of the large single rock that appears, although as we all know only too well, coins do come to light that differ from the "norm" and hence become a new variety. The fact that new varieties are identified regularly further compounds the fact that the "3 rocks" factor is not a 100% guarantee that a coin can be classed as a Beaded Border. I have no doubt that there could well be a beaded border reverse out there with a single rock waiting to be discovered. I have provided an image comparing the beaded and toothed borders on several coins at various grades, and I think the difference is readily apparent, not only in the shape of the denticles/beads, which are consistent around the perimeter, but also when considering a section through the coin. Comparison Section The problem is that if I was purchasing a BB/TB mule, I would want to see this feature to determine that my investment was not at risk, unless I was 100% certain that it was a new variety. I also expect that many people would feel the same. However many other investors may not be aware of such distinguishing features and would want to choose the slabbed option, safe in the knowledge that an expert has authenticated the variety. As you say if there is a portion of the toothed border that has deteriorated to show beads then your description may well be accurate, but I would also suggest that it could be misleading to the buyer who may not be getting what they expect. I am not stating that the coin in question does not show a mix of beads and teeth, because without the coin in hand it would be difficult to be certain, and the fact remains it may well be a new variety. However my personal opinion was that it did not match what "historically" has been defined as a BB/TB Mule, and should ideally therefore not be labelled as such to avoid confusion similar to that which has already occurred. If the coin in question has mix of beaded and toothed on the reverse and toothed on the obverse, would it not be better labelled as a beaded & toothed obv/toothed rev mule, I can appreciate its a bit of a mouthful and could probably be better worded, but at least it is an accurate reflection of the coin in the holder. Fixed Link!! Comparison

Teg, I can appreciate your comments regarding the owner, and maybe their appeal could have been worded a bit less aggressive, but I can also see their concerns. They are going to be selling a coin which they have had double checked by the "experts" and negative comments in relation to the coin could affect the sale price. It is not their fault that there are differing opinions on this coin, and at least they reacted to informed opinions the last time the item was put up for sale and sought confirmation before attempting to resell. At the end of the day the issue will be passed to the new owner, but so will the potential for recourse against the grading company. I thought I needed a better social life scanning every farthing that passes through my hands , but I have to admit, I have not yet started counting border beads That will give me something to do on Sunday afternoon

Rob, Peck decribed the reverse of the 1860 BB by the distinctive rocks to the left of the lighthouse, as did the late great Colin Cooke. Every Mule I have ever seen has had the three rocks present and by the scarcity of the variety I would not consider it feasible that there is the possibility of 2 different mule varieties one of which has never been seen before. The beaded border style is surrisingly different in that all of the beads are individual and placed on a flat area, whereas the toothed edge may have some teeth that are separated but is not consistent on every tooth. The 0 in 1860 is another area where the variety can be compared, the 1860 Beaded reverse has a gap between the 0 and the linear circle and a marginally smaller 0. You may be correct in that there could be a type of Beaded Border farthing with a single rock, but would you realistically gamble £400 on the possibility when every specialist source/reference book states otherwise. Believe me when I say there is nothing I would have liked more than to say to Gary that the piece appeared correct, and I get no pleasure from saying otherwise, but from a collector to a fellow collector I have to give my honest opinion, and would appreciate people doing the same with me in similar circumstances.