Chris Perkins

The law is a bit grey but it is generally accepted that the illegality only occurs when you melt down coins that are currently in circulation. So, that means the decimals (but possibly not the demonetised larger 5, 10 and 50p....who knows....who really cares!). It is therefore legal to melt down pre 1947 silver and also pre decimal bronze.

You'd have to go underground with it, or leave the country.

All of them, without exception! There should be a 1967 coinage amnesty. A Government funded scheme to encourage people to scrap ALL 1967 coins! Make them illegal and get the '67 coins off the streets, they are a blight on society! ;-)

I hope they all get bloody melted without exception, so that in 5 years there are none whatsoever in the whole world!

It's about £35 to £40 per £5 face value canvass bag (1200 coins, at around 3p each). But I don't have any, because I always scrap them all!

For the £100.00 bags I'd pay £120.00, assuming you are not too far away. And, yes if the other bag is 1967 then scrap value only. I think I can go to 11x face for pre 1920 and 5.5x for 1920 to 1947 silver. I haven't looked at the rates for a while.

Good question! I've gone through adding new Crowns down to Sixpences (most of which have already sold). Next is threepences and then the copper. Nad recently I bought 11 and a half sovereigns, which may end up getting priority due to the value!

Mir geht es gut. Du kannst mich schon Du-sen! Ich habe nie lust allem mit Sie und Ihn anzusprechen!

Thanks, good to know. Just wish I had some more coins to grade and sell! Actually, that's a fib. I do have coins and generally I can source them. My main prob is finding the time to scan and list them.

Funny how German seems to be the 2nd language of the forum.

It would be impossible for it to be struck like that because the silver part is inserted to the brass ring before the design is struck, as far as I'm aware. I think it is possible with the right machinery to actually push out the centre part, so perhaps someone has pushed it out, then pushed it back in again the wrong way round, just for fun.

Humbrol enamel by brush is fine, a car touch-up paint, or something similar. Difficult to spray because you'd have to mask the other side. The Chrome parts stay exactly as they are because they're deeper. Was all the rage to change the colours of your Ford badges when I was your age (which is only 12 years ago)! I never had a Ford though, as I liked to be different. The date on the coin is under the King's head. They are often very worn but it can only be 1806 or 1807. 1807 is a little harder to find than 1806.

Yes, that's the scarcer one. What about a nice big pic of the whole coin so we can assess grade.

No, that was wrong! I meant common with the JEB right off the Truncation! There isn't one with no JEB.

Perfectly normal and very common George III halfpenny of 1806 or 1807. Not worth more than £1 in that condition. You know you can sand down the back of that Ford badge and then paint it another colour? They look great in red.

No, the withdrawn type is very common (without JEB). I think probably more common than the 'SIX PENCE' type.

You mean 'Numismatist' azda. I'm not so sure that one of those in Germany would be much help. If it were mine, I'd keep in and take a chance that it's either a very good quality contemp, or a genuine error.

Done that! I asked IPB to upgrade me to the newest version (which works until the spammers find a new way to get around it) and enroll me for the Spam Monitor thing mentioned in your link.

What if it's actually got all it's thin silver layer intact? Must be possible. Or, the modern theory is also entirely plausible because dies probably get made and then go to some other Chinaman to strike. He can't possibly know the alignments for all coins and may have just guessed based on his knowledge of US coins which are forged a lot and mostly have 180 alignment.

Post the pics in this thread azda (no one in the world can be bothered to cross reference things these days) Look at the dots between the words on the garter. Weakly struck. And the horizontal and vertical 'shading' in the shield and garter is also wishy-washy in places. And of course there's the die axis being wrong, which of course could be an error. If it is a fake, it's a very good one and if comtemporary to 1818 then it's the best fake I've seen. Tough one that. I have an 1819 on the website and the dots and lines are very strong.

Wow, same thread, exactly 4 years later! This is the Happy birthday TomGoodheart thread.

Yes, and another similar one. And some others from the last 2 weeks that looked like they were up to no good!

No, this message was most certainly spam. They always seem to find ways of getting round preventions don't they. It's no doubt an automated process and not a real person at all. NOT NOT CLICK ON THE LINK! I've just send messages to every user to warn them. And I have of course deleted the member. I'll also look and see if there's a way the personal messanger can be disabled for new users.

I don't usually blow my own trumpet here, but I simply had to post this message received yesterday from a customer: May I take this opportunity to say that I have received orders from three separate dealers since starting collecting in November. I can categorically say that your grading of the coins is definitely the most accurate (in my amateur and humble opinion). When you say it is BU I have every confidence that it will be BU (and not a scratched UNC). Once again thank you and assuring you of my continued custom for many years to come.

You can't buy that blind. With all those problems listed and the wonders of coin dealer understatement, you simply have to see pictures.