kuhli

I already have the 2004 2p, thanks to Sylvester!!!, but are any of the other denominations in circulation yet? I saw on the link to Michaels Coins (the link Chris gave on a different thread) that the new 50p (4 minute mile)/£1 (Forth Bridge)/£2 (can't remember what commem it was) wallet set is available. What about the 1p, 5p, 10p, and 20p. Any sightings? Any news? Would like to keep up with the new issues as they come out, makes things easier for me to focus on filling in the older holes.

Okay, my grasp of the English language is not as good as it should be (especially since it is my only language), so maybe I am just not reading it correctly. The story about the cartwheel 2 pence on the last page.....

Wybrit is a class guy. From what I have seen of his collection through his occassional photo posts, I am jealous. I have also bought many coins from him over the past year or more, and have never been disappointed. He is probably one of the main reasons that I began to focus on British coins when I did.

Besides the daunting task of providing accurate pricing, Chris must also deal with the aspect of publishing a quality book. I think we should all give him our thoughts, both good and bad, on the current layout and design of the book, so that he can have some ideas on ways to possibly improve it. So what do you think? What do you like about the book? What do you dislike??

I want to thank all of you that PM'ed me to wish me a happy birthday. I took the day off work, and am not going to do anything but surf the net and play with coins all day. (except when my wife gets home from work, she will make me leave the house so she can do her work-out videos alone) Thanks again, Scott

Nope. If I don't leave for an hour or so, she won't exercise. And then, of course, it is my fault. So, it is just easier all the way around to just go away for a little while and let her do what she has to do.

I landed somewhere just left of Gandhi and Nelson Mandela. Libertarian left?? Since I am not into politics, I don't know if that is good or bad.

Lauer (the designer)

TOP 5 1) Yugoslavia (Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes) 1925 20 dinara gold. Found this one buried in eBay, under a misleading, misspelled title from an Italian stamp dealer. paid less than 25% catalog value for it, and that includes sending my cashiers' check to him certified, and the fees to have him send the coin insured to me. 2) Yugoslavia 1992 mint set. Issued in March, withdrawn when the government collapsed on April 11. Very hard to find, catalog prices very wrong! 3) Yugoslavia 1993 500 dinara. Authorized and minted during the peak of the Yugoslavian hyper-inflation, but never released, since the value of the base metal in the coin began to cost more than the face value of the coin. All but 1000 were supposedly melted. It was during this hyper-inflation that Yugoslavia issued a 500,000,000,000 dinara note! 4) Yugoslavia 1983 500 dinara Olympic Biathalon. This is the first slabbed coin I ever bought, graded MS70 deep cameo. I don't really care that it is slabbed, I wanted the coin for my collection, and the price was right. 5) Yugoslavia 1984 500 dinara Olympic Slalom. see above for same situation (another MS70 deep cameo)

I believe you have totally missed the point. Collecting coins is based on a passion for coins, not any defined guidelines. If you cannot enjoy your coins, then you might as well not collect. Jmd wants the coin because it appeals to him, which is the foundation of collecting. Ummm, what book do you have that explains what an "even collection" is?? To begin with, equally good does not necessarily mean equally expensive.

Chris, I understand that you want to bring the prices current in all the books, and I think you mentioned starting with the Geo III book. Not being an advanced collector of that period (or even a beginner collector of that period), I am not familiar with the coins, and I do not have that book. But you do, and you can look at the book and see which prices are still somewhat accurate, and which ones are way off. Instead of us all throwing all kinds of values for 1938 pennies and 1896 farthings and 1903 shillings, etc., at you, tell us what dates/denominations you would like us to focus on, and then we can collectively do our independent research on those items, and give you some more substantial figures that would probably be more representative of the current trends. example: If the Geo III shillings prices are outdated, then maybe we can all work on gathering some current prices for you to use to calculate what the current "catalog value" should be. example: You may want to get a better idea of the difference in prices between "cartwheel penny" in F and EF, so we could get several dealer prices in both grades. Just some thoughts, trying to help. If I am out of line, then give me the quick kick in the arse.

The quotes are from the 2002 Krause Standard Catalog of World Coins 29th edition. using US grading standards NOTE: Prior to 1982, the denomination should read APAXMAI (drachmai). From 1982 onward, it should read APAXMEE (drachmes). The singular is drachma. These have Pericles on the obverse 1976 (should say APAXMAI as denomination) VF=$0.30, XF=$0.50 1978 VF=$0.30, XF=$0.50 1982 VF=$0.30, XF=$0.50 These have Archon of Athens on the obverse 1986 VF=$0.50, XF=$1.00 These have Homer on the obverse 1990 XF=$0.75 These have Democritus on the obverse 1984 VF=$0.25, XF=$0.50 These have Aristotle on the obverse 1982 VF=$0.20, XF=$0.35 1984 VF=$0.20, XF=$0.35 1986 VF=$0.20, XF=$0.35 1988 XF=$0.30 This one features Georgios Karaiskakis (led a revolution in 1821 which resulted in Greece's independence from Turkey) 1984 VF=$0.10, XF=$0.20

Congratulations Sylvester!!! I think you made a good choice, Chris.

Okay, this may look silly, but let us consider the possibilities before we get too judgemental. You young ones must learn to do a little homework, and learn to "read between the lines". The facts: --the seller has only been registered on eBay for a little over 8 months. --according to his feedback rating, he has sold only 1 item in that time. --the seller currently has 17 other legitimate auctions running, all of which started the same approximate time as the "nothing" auction. Now, with this simple knowledge, it is easy to see several scenarios developing. --the seller accidentally listed the same item twice. being a new seller (remember, he has only sold 1 item before), maybe he does not know how to cancel an auction, so instead just modified it to delete the item offered. --the seller listed the item as a 5 day auction instead of a 7 day auction, and as above, modified it to delete the item offered. eBay is a great concept, but to use that concept to it's full potential, it is up to the individuals who participate to be fully aware of all the rules, regulations, and procedures; as well as have the ability to read and interpret what is going on.

That would be from Iraq. To determine the denomination, look at the central circle on the reverse. Their 1 looks similar to our "1" Their 5 looks like an "O" Their 0 looks like a "." Their 2 looks like a backwards "7"

Mine, too!

Would it not make more sense to have Stage 1 start with 1902 (Edward issues), and put the 1900 & 1901 into Stage 2, as they are Victorian bronzes??? just a thought.

Did a little internet research and found the following: Collectors' Military Money (2003) Great Britain Stamp Varieties (1981)

1) Collectors' Coins Great Britain 2) Collectors' Coins Ireland 3) Collectors' George III Coins 4) Collectors' Roman Coins 5) Collectors' Bank Notes (GB)

I have the 1999 edition, so I am familiar with the general format of book, although it appears to have undergone some major changes in the last 5 years, already. My edition is in a horizontal format as opposed to the current vertical format (which I think is a big improvement). Looking at the photo caption on this site, it also appears that the layout has apparently been spread out considerably. (the photo shows the half-crowns on page 57, whereas the 1999 edition only has 56 pages). BTW, the 1999 edition had a price of £2.50. #1. the cover. I think we all agree that something should be done to improve the appearance of the cover. it is now up to Chris to decide what those improvements will be, based on the equipment/technology available and within budget allowances. #2. the listings. 1820 seems like a strange place to start, other than the obvious point of starting with Geo IV. I think you should consider (and this is just a suggestion) starting with the 1816 recoinage. In reality, this only adds 21 more coins (6p - crown) and 3 Maundy sets. #3. the format. I agree with the others that the division by denomination is definitely preferable to the division by monarch. I also agree that the rare patterns and such should be seperated into an appendix. I think the Maundy sets should also be moved to an appendix. I think the decimal coinage needs to remain, if not for the pricing, but at least for the reference use. I am constantly using mine to determine which dates are available from circulation, and also the various changing coinage, such as the £1 and £2. One thought I had that I think might be useful for you to consider: you have stated that for the most part, the 2005 edition will not be modified, yet it hasn't been done yet. Perhaps you could print a loose questionaire/poll/survey to be included with each copy sold, to get some feedback from the customers who are actually buying the book. Some demographics of your client base will help dictate the direction to proceed on this venture.

Chris, Add me to the list. I don't have a specialty, per se, but I have lots of time and energy to commit to you.

It's called a "bezel".

Not that surprising. As a dealer, Chris must separate business from hobby. Bear in mind, there is a large difference between a dealer (who makes his livelyhood selling coins) and a collector who sells his surplus (usually to finance his own collection). When I make transactions with a dealer, I expect the dealer to provide me with what I want (if I ask about a BU 1907 farthing, I don't expect to be offered a VF. I can accept if they offer an almostUNC, if that is all he has available. but if less than that, then just be forthright and say you don't have any) and I expect the full service that comes with it, regardless of how large the purchase is. (today I may only need a £5 coin, but treat me right, next week I may be looking for £500 coin). A dealer should have some basic knowledge with most all coins, whether it is something they normally sell or not. (if I ask a dealer if they carry any Dutch ducats, they better at least know what I am talking about. I don't expect a collector who specializes in British copper to neccesarily know what a Dutch ducat is) When I am dealing with a collector, I know that I am getting the "lesser" of what he has, I don't expect all the red-carpet treatment, but I also can usually count on a good deal from one collector to another (chances are he got a deal somewhere, either on the coin he is offering, or the up-graded piece he is keeping, and most are willing to share some of the savings)

2 + B 1 + A Proof 2 + B 1 + B 2 + A Proof 2 + A