Brianess

Anyone who has an Australia type collection or collection of Australia Florins should not be without this one. It is a commemorative coin issued in 1927 for the opening of Parliament House in Canberra. It is comprised of 0.9250 (sterling) Silver and could fetch anywhere from US$15 to US$50, depending on condition. It might be a good idea to check out eBay for other people selling this coin to get a current value or listing price unless you get an offer through this forum. It isn't worthless, and with the price of silver going up, it may increase in value. Enjoy, -Brian.

This is the year 16 (1883) Krause Cat Y#16.2

For this coin, go to Turkey in the 19th century. It's a 40 Para KM670. There are many varieties, you'll have to research, I can't discern the number on the obverse. The Arabic Turkish number 1700 (backwards 7) is actually the date AH1255 which converts to Christian date March 17, 1839. In the center is what looks like a 3 with a dot after it. This translates to 40, the face value. Not worth much in this condition, but may have sentimental value if passed down from older family members. -Brian.

Appears to be a 1/4 Anna from India, Princely State of Gwalior. Krause catalog # KM170 or KM171. Check these out. I would lean more towards the KM170 as the catalog states it is a 2.2mm thick planchet, whereas the KM171 is a thin, 1.6mm, planchet. The obverse shows the bust of Madho Rao. The reverse shows the Arms. Minted in 1913 (VS1970) Hope this helps. -Brian.

This is a 1 Cent coin from Netherlands. In the Krause catalog KM# 100. The pictures show some corrosion and aren't very clear so I cannot give an estimated grade, but the obverse details look quite sharp even with the corrosion.

Nice looking coin, probably a XF to AU from what I can tell from the pictures. I found it in the Standard Catalog of World coins 19th Century at the back of Great Britain in Token Coinage. It is KM# Tn5, 3 Shilling, 0.9250 Silver (Sterling) Issued by the Bank of England. This catalog lists a value of $60 @ VF, $100 @ XF, and $200 Unc. You will need to send if for certification for encapsulation at a grade.

I was asked to sell the coin pictured below which I believe is a Charles I Unite, but my reference material does not go back beyond 1700 and I can find no other references in the internet. When I found this forum, I figured a few of your members may be able to help. Here's hoping this is real and not somebody's fantasy piece. It is approximately 35mm diameter and weighs approximately 10 grams. It is a thin planchet. Any information will be appreciated. Including, of course, year of issue, gold content and current value. Thank you. Brianess

Forgot about Allan. His email address is coins@britishcoins.com. This worked a couple of months ago. He is based in Cold Spring Minnesota, phone number is xxx.xxx.xxxx Great, I'll send him an e-mail and see what he says. Thanks. Again thanks. His web site is http://www.britishcoins.com/. In Part 6: Scottish,Irish, item 195, he shows one just like the one I have. I'll be writing him tonight. Thanks for all your help. Brian. Note: edited out phone number.

Forgot about Allan. His email address is coins@britishcoins.com. This worked a couple of months ago. He is based in Cold Spring Minnesota, phone number is xxx.xxx.xxxx Great, I'll send him an e-mail and see what he says. Thanks. Note: edited out phone number.

Thanks, I'll try to look him up. Any idea where he lives or has an office? Is he in New York by any chance?

Since you mentioned it, I took a closer look and on the obverse at that point is the G of DG. It looks at though something had dropped on it, but didn't pierce it. It is just a small bump on the reverse at the S. But all the more reason to have it checked by the professionals. Thanks for your help, Rob, and thanks to everyone who gave me information today. It really helps a lot. Usually when it's small and round it's an attempted piercing because it requires quite a bit of force aimed at one point to make this type of mark. This won't help it's value, though in that grade will still be desirable and an attempted piercing would give further credibility to it being genuine as this was usually contemporary. You might struggle to find someone in the States who is familiar with this coinage. The grading companies make a lot of mistakes on British coins ranging from inaccurate grading through to inaccurate attribution with cases known of cleaned, artificially toned and forgeries - so I would give them a miss despite their claims. This is basically down to not being familiar with the coins they are looking at. What you need is someone who can tie the dies to known genuine pieces at the microscopic level. If you know how and where it was acquired it would be helpful as this would possibly lead to a provenance which could be checked against old sales catalogues. It looks good enough to have been in a few quality collections and high enough in grade to be illustrated. I do appreciate your help and I will check further with the owner. It belonged to his uncle but he passed a way a few years ago and from what I've seen of other items I've been asked to sell, there doesn't seem to be very good record keeping or what there was was lost or trashed, but I'll check to be sure. I'll post again when I get more information.

Since you mentioned it, I took a closer look and on the obverse at that point is the G of DG. It looks at though something had dropped on it, but didn't pierce it. It is just a small bump on the reverse at the S. But all the more reason to have it checked by the professionals. Thanks for your help, Rob, and thanks to everyone who gave me information today. It really helps a lot.

That's good information and I feel foolish I didn't think of it. I'm retired and live in a small town in western Massachusettes, USA, my son lives in New York City so that may be a good start. I'll ask him.

Here is a larger picture. I hope it's easier to see the details. I don't know how big a picture I can post here and don't want to over do it. The original is about 16" wide. With a possible value of what Rob wrote, it would be in my best interest to get this certified or at least examined to see if it is genuine. I believe it is, but other people would like to know when I go to sell it. Anybody have a recommendation on who to send it to or where I can find information to make the required arrangements?