Rob

But how thick is it at the moment? The thickness will tell you instantly if the material is anything like as dense as gold.

Given you are rubbing bits off left right and centre, why not take it to a bullion dealer and cash it in? There won't be much left soon. You can always do a specific gravity check. Alternatively, 17mm diameter, density of gold is 19.32g/cm3, density of copper is 8.96g/cm3 assuming it isn't alloyed with silver in which case use 10.49g/cm3, weight 1.6129g for the complete thing without hole, reduce the weight by about 7% for the hole, purity if it was gold would be 0.9000, volume of a cylinder is 3.14 x 0.852 x height. You can therefore work out if it is gold just by establishing the thickness, give or take a bit seeing as it isn't a flat disc. 19th century gold coins were not made from white gold. This is something driven by modern fashion tastes. It would be bog standard gold alloyed with bog standard copper or bog standard silver on a 9:1 ratio.

I've got Bole 1 -5 here, but they haven't been listed yet. PM me if you have no joy.

I'm going copy. It looks too new and a copy would likely be plated copper. I have no idea who would make them this side of Shanghai, but there will be somebody somewhere. Maybe France?

and the description is a bit disingenuous..................

The number of coins minted is pretty much a function of the orders placed by the clearing banks, with the first year of a reign usually oversupplied as this is not so easy to anticipate. If the banks order £100K worth of 50p pieces, the RM will make them. There is no predetermined formula, just a case of good old supply and demand.

Both.

Anything entered by hand can end up in any position. If a stop has been lost and the need was felt to replace it, then surely the actual position of the repair is going to be a lottery?

Not as good as GC's, but then, that cost him twice as much

I would question why he had paid £190 for it? That was the starting point for what is a massive pile of c**p

And a genuine one- ok it's the later issue, but it's why a provenance is so valuable. As both Coinery and I said - never ever throw away a ticket.

That might offer a clue if someone is looking for these varieties

What you see is what you get. Images that are small relative to the overall canvas are usually designed to hide all the warts. It applies to eBay and just about every scenario I can think of. If you want to sell something, the best way is to give an accurate description and a quality picture. It is something a lot of people don't seem to consider, things like 'half guineas' in gold cunningly disguised as 4.4g of worn tat in a shilling's clothing spring to mind. The detail isn't clear for a bloody good reason. If in doubt, leave it out. You can never get more than about 78% of a square box filled with one side of a coin, so it isn't unreasonable to expect say 65% or better coverage with the useful bits.

Unc 20th century farthings are always available. A particular year might not necessarily be to hand, but you shouldn't have to wait long for one to turn up if you look hard enough.

An 1867 die 2 shilling where someone has engraved an elephant on the relief.

For a quid, it doesn't really matter that it has light wear and a bit of verdigris in the border teeth. If in doubt, get two - one unc, one not

From the latin for ring - anulus. They can appear in pairs or singly, and can be large or small, complete or broken. It all helps with the chronology.

Thanks.

So somebody has taken the gold description at face value and paid about scrap for it. I echo TG's comment.

You can count the number of proofs on one hand or so. Not the best picture, but this is the ex-Norweb coin. In the hand, proofs and currency are like chalk and cheese.

Got to get me one of those. I don't have a disgracefully worn base metal counterfeit shilling weighing 4.4g. If it was gold and scrap, anybody should realise that the best way you realise value is to sell it to a bullion dealer. Nobody would bid over the odds for scrap on eBay, or at least they shouldn't do if they had any sense.

Forget it. The other years advertised from him also use the 1953 obverse, so you can have a full date run with the wrong obverse - not. I guarantee you won't receive what is pictured. He probably sold a 1953 at some time.

Until you are looking for one.......... coz you sure aren't going to find most of them in your change when you need one. I concur regarding the first bit though.

Desperate need for a high resolution image of a York 1D halfcrown please, should anyone have one. The picture I'm stuck with at the moment is that in Besly's 1984 BNJ article (see below) which is worse than useless. The BM's isn't imaged on line and nor is the Hunterian's. I'm basically hoping that someone has the Brooker coin, otherwise it will be a case of trying to persuade the Yorkshire Museum to give me a picture or allow me to take one as I sure aint going to pay the BM £50 a side at the last count for pictures. Please, anybody, even if you have the grotty one in Glens 13th March 1974 lot 316.

I would suspect not given the price of a typical thing on Alibaba is a quid or so. That doesn' cover the silver cost.