Rob

You will get small imperfections in any die which may possibly show up sufficient differences between examples to identify them as separate dies. Usually it is flaws or recut letters that give the best evidence. You will need to overlay them. They will be nominally the same dies, but the closer you look the more chance there is of seeing differences. I can see a difference without looking too hard despite your fuzzy image. The B at the start of the reverse legend appears to have a missing upper serif on your example. The same letter on mine has a serif, but as it is the earlier example based on the date, this doesn't mean it is a different die to yours, which could just be a case of die fill as could the missing lower pellet. A missing serif on an 1844 that was present on your 1845 would have to be different dies. Come on folks, bring out your 1844 farthings and help.

Maundy reverse - ok it's a 4d and the wrong date, but the design is the same. And a G6 currency reverse. Difficult not to spot the difference https://www.rpcoins.co.uk/products/george-v-1927-maundy-fourpence https://www.rpcoins.co.uk/products/00000905

If they were, they shouldn't have been. The currency 3d has a rose on the reverse

As Michael said - usually it is due to blocked dies on one or both of the colon dots, though a single pellet can't be entirely ruled out. What is needed is a number of coins struck from the same reverse die showing the gradual infilling of the lower colon dot. As the previous year is the rarest of the copper farthings, it should be relatively easy to pursue this line due to the small number of dies involved. Unfortunately, the 1844 I have in the trays for sale doesn't show any weakness in the bottom pellet, so isn't particularly helpful. I've attached an image of my 1844 if it helps as you can possibly overlay the two images once you have a clear picture of yours. It may or may not be the same reverse die. It isn't the best 1844 in the world, but is at least something to work with. Maybe others could add images of any they have to hand?

It doesn't help that AU58 doesn't usually translate to a gEF. You have to be in the 61-64 to have any chance of making good EF, and then (somewhat ironically) it isn't guaranteed. It's just one of those coins which gets overgraded on occasion and consequently will never get taken out of the slab. This phenomenon is a contributor to grade inflation as each overgraded coin bulks out the populations at whatever level.

Me too. I thought the LIMA crowns in the last sale were inferior to the one I have too, despite one being graded 80. Mine gets an unambiguous EF for the wear around the ear with brownie points for the toning. Reverse is better, but you can't call it unc with wear.

Certainly DH 44, but whether 44, 44a, 44b or 44c depends on the edge reading. Payable in Lancaster, London or Bristol; Payable at London or Dublin x x x; CURRANT EVERY WHERE (sic) or Halfpenny Payable at the Black Horse Tower Hill respectively. The second is common, o/w RR

Noted as a variety for 1844 by Bramah (cf. p118, 57a), so possibly one of the earliest obverse dies for 1845 combined with a reverse die still intact at the end of 1844.

Do it systematically, i.e. start at the beginning, otherwise you will be revisiting old territory. Sod here can guarantee it will be Zambia or Zimbabwe

Shares the same address as Lukazs in the post above. Entirely coincidental of course.

A date would help. The picture is too small. 83, 86 or 88? All you have to do is plough through Krause until you find a suitable match. It's a bit tedious, that's all.

It's alright for some people. Liiving in East Anglia you must be spoilt for choice for both venue, and also what you find. All you will find with a metal detector around here is industrial detritus from the past 250 years.

I'd like the top one please.

This is a pleasant change I'm still looking for a decent AGR, SOLIDV and a bronze with the nearly complete mint signature CAMVL/ODVNO. I do have a winged victory unit.

You can still ask to return it. If you don't then nothing will happen.

It is unlikely to increase its value because it is not an error as indicated by Nick, but that doesn't mean you won't be able to find someone on eBay with more money than sense who will be willing to pay over the odds.

Ask for your money back. Any dealer worth their salt will offer a no-quibble returns. You can say 7 days, but if it is fundamentally mis-described then that period goes out the window. If a coin is a forgery, then you have to unpick the traded history of the coin until eventually someone is left holding it.

It is a medal. Quite legitimate, but I don't have a copy of MI to give you a reference

Passed down coins that allegedly came from Grandad, that he found with a metal detector when looking down the back of the sofa, that revealed a wonderful valuable rarity that you wouldn't find in a field even if you spent a lifetime detecting, that just happen to be sold in a market that specialises in dodgy items, that is guaranteed to raise a fraction of the value of a genuine piece, that raises many times the value of the copy on offer, that has probably been worked on to disguise the fact it is a copy, that is offered by a seller with no interest in or past sales of coins, that relies on a person with enough optimism to hope they will pick up something genuine at bargain basement prices................ the latter never happens. This is standard ebay fayre. Still, at least the seller is happy getting rid of things that would otherwise be impossible to sell. And he has been smart in putting them together as a bulk lot to save repeating the exercise. You would have been better off buying a genuine coin from a dealer that would have some resale value in the future. Virtually nobody will want an example of a museum copy.

Same here. Treat yourself to a pint.

Just a glance says there are dodgy ones. Multiple William I bonnet types, St. Peter Sword types, Caesar's elephant, eight Edward I groats at 5 or 6K a pop! Yeh, right. The penny size thing having a cross with pellets in the angles has two with identical offset strikes. I'd hazard a guess and say they are mostly copies as a minimum quantity, with possibly all once you have them in hand. £30 - you've been done, but with about £100K retail for that pile if genuine, you will know that anyway. One genuine example will be ok, but don't hold out too much hope.

The early eighties saw a 30% drop in prices which basically unwound some of the large increases of the 70s that was due to the inflation seen in that decade. Prices then slowly increased from the reset baseline. The curve steepened around the millennium or soon after, then steepened again following the financial meltdown in 2007/8. QE has ensured that the supply of money is effectively unrestricted, with a lot of that finding its way into alternative investments for the collector, or easy credit for the spendthrift consumer. Should be a ready supply of used upper end motors in the not too distant future for anyone looking to pick and choose a restoration/old car collection hobby.

I reckon the WRL signifies Worth Remarkably Little. Mind you, given it's a Henry VIII, that mark could be contemporary

Pictures are too dark to be much use, but it looks like IOAN CASI and the date is 1661 in which case it is probably Johann Casimir of Thorn in Poland. I can't match anything, but there again I can't see much in the picture. Whether it is real or not I can't say. Size?

It appears he is a collector who loves his coins. That's good. I can supply him a huge number of coins up to extra fine. Saves throwing them in the scrap pile. Thinking out loud, I wonder how big a part the references only giving a price down to fine influences the uneducated masses' grading. As this is usually the lowest grade indicated, it is a not unreasonable assumption on their part to assume this is where the grading scale starts. Just a thought.