Rob

Freeman 329A, ex MJF Compared with a normal one. Sorry about the scans again.

To add to your 1866, I have one with the tonnage figures 138/405, this being the one numerically preceding the cover coin on Michael Gouby's book (139/406). Sorry about the scan.

I have plenty, but not many recent purchases having whittled down the number over the past 8 years by about two-thirds and in any case prefer the George III patterns and proofs. So with that in mind, it will have to be old ones. First up, to add to your scarce 1847 and 1848, I will add the unique '1849'.

Could be hard work, there's oddballs all over the place.

Seeing as your location is given as Notts, you can always go to the Wakefield Fair on the last Sunday of each month held at the Cedar Court Hotel off Jcn 39 of the M1. Doors open at 9:30. Second Sunday of each month is the Midland Fair held at the Motorcycle Museum, off the NEC junction of the M42. Doors also open at 9:30. If you go to Wakefield, I am the large hairy object on the cross aisle.

This landed on the doorstep today. P989. Unsurprisingly it becomes the representative example of a flawed die.

Just sold this one. I'm surprised it didn't go earlier considering the attractive toning.

I think you may be a little surprised at the amount of interest in anything decimal as well as anything the media hypes up at the moment. At the Midland yesterday, I sold every £1 coin I had, and not just to one or two people. Why? I know people collect them more than say 20p pieces or smaller, but to sell every one is unprecedented. Who knows, maybe someone is trying to corner the market by stocking up in advance of the old ones being demonetised? That would be in keeping with the herd mentality seen prior to decimalisation.

I can. 119 circulated 50ps at nearly a fiver and 68 fivers at £15 a pop only adds up to 187 idiots. I see that number every day. He is selling to the whole world.

That's what the ebay listing says, as per eBay's multiple similar lots option. In red, centre top. below 'more than 10 available'.

Rather worryingly, he has sold 68 already.

Edward VI base penny of York. And before anyone complains, it's about 75% copper

1844 Third farthing. Not the best picture, but an ok coin.

A difficult one to call from a neutral viewpoint. Whilst realistic pictures as close to that seen in the hand are what people want and try to achieve when imaging their coins, the additional contrast used in catalogues to bring out the detail also helps to highlight the warts. I think it is fair to say that reducing the contrast in order to mask faults is not desirable from either perspective.

Flight to the US - £500. Beer - $5. Have a couple and make the trip worthwhile.

You can only learn by looking. Nobody is forced to buy anything. Broadly speaking collectors fall in to two groups when it comes to learning - those who gain all their knowledge from looking at eBay and other virtual sources and the second group who opt for practical experience, who do their legwork and physically examine coins. Only by comparing what is available in the flesh can you come to appreciate what consitutes a good example. Whilst a picture is said to speak a thousand words, it is also a very good way of presenting an object in the most favourable light possible, with contract and colours frequently adjusted to hide defects. You need to get a glass on coins and mentally absorb all that you see including prices and grades.

That's better. Put them all into one thread. Now take still pictures instead of a video shot. The moving image makes it difficult to see the coin clearly, and this is exacerbated by the fact that the important bit (the coin) is only a couple percent of the total image area. Most of the available space is wasted. Crop the image almost to the edge of the coin, join the pictures together and you will have a non-moving image of both sides that is possible to examine. At present, it is impossible to comment on any coin because a 20 second video only gives 8 or so seconds per side for the viewer to try and follow a randomly moving spot in the middle of the video. When people scrutinise coins, they are looking for both good and bad points. That can only be done with a stable image and may take minutes to consider. Mobile technology is a wonderful thing (or so I have been told), but convenience usually comes at a cost, which in this case renders close examination of the coin impossible.

A design is adopted and then made legal tender by proclamation. That's it. The legal guarantee of a coin's value stems from the proclamation which is further down the line from a decision on design features. You only need to have a number if all coins are the same size regardless of denomination. Think US banknotes.

Correct. Halved rose & castle mark, so post P&Ms' wedding. It is quite a decent example. They were also produced during the reign of Edward VI at York and London, but in that case with the titles starting EDG instead of PZMDG and the York coins have a pierced mullet mark.

I wish I had won the two in the Adams sale. Underbidder on both.

It's not that bad. I didn't find anything last year, but was quite pleased with the three years prior to that. There is usually something small worth buying even if the larger ticket items aren't available. No fair has a significant advantage over the next. The idea that all the best stuff is kept for certain fairs is a myth. Most people will only buy one or two items, so the thousands on offer are mostly irrelevant. If you find something you want, you will declare it a good fair. And that can happen anytime, anywhere.

There will be some there, but considerably more hammered material.

Struck on the wrong blank. I have a 1967 that is also too thin and origianlly a blank used for Burundi coinage. It's unlikely to be silver as virtually everyone was using Cupro-Nickel by then. If you send it to the Royal Mint, they might be able to tell you what the host flan was originally used for.

A bit of everything, but all the dealers will be established ones, so not like a car boot sale. You will be able to spend anything from tens of pounds to thousands. Everybody has a budget, so what sort of price range were you thinking of? Also pertinent is what do you collect?

Bored. Not strictly copper, but I'm not going to make a 'Let's see your bronze' thread. ex Clarke-Thornhill 835.