Rob

https://www.rpcoins.co.uk/collections/half if it helps

Why not look at a few in trays before spending money? Surely the interest is already there if you are looking to purchase. Alternatively, buy a few Chinese copies. Cost - maybe £1.50 each delivered. They would be close enough to the real thing to stimulate you or not. Or compile a collage or two on your desktop and see which appeals.

Good

?

Yes, but that's the rub. If not rare, then it is unlikely that you will have the only example, nor is it likely to be in the right grade for the prospective purchaser. If mint state, then you are likely to want to hang on to it.

If you are just starting out, you might have a misconstrued idea of rare coin. Rare coins are exactly that - a handful known and collectively we are mostly aware of their various locations. These coins tend to find the person who wants one and bypass the general market. They are something you are unlikely to encounter in day to day collecting unless dug up and listed on ebay. Without a history of wanting specific rarities, and more crucially putting your money where your mouth is when they become available because they don't usually come cheap, then you won't figure on a dealer's radar. Most people consider a coin to be rare if not immediately available. In reality, they are simply impatient. Rare might take months or even years for a coin to surface.

Less than you might imagine. There are common ones and rare one, just like everything else. £2-3K usually gets you a nice one, but some need a bit more than that, particularly the later Charles I pieces because very little gold was struck approaching or during the Civil War and after.

They are all collectable, just a case of supply and demand. Too many to be absorbed by collectors and they become bullion. Prices vary from £20-30 above bullion to half a million. Horses for courses.

You'll get a lot better than 60% on sovereigns. Most are bought a fraction under bullion and sold for a tenner or a bit more. The money is made on quick turnaround, not a large capital gain. Obviously doesn't apply to all sovereigns, but certainly does to many 20th century pieces.

One thought that has just been conveyed to me. Do we now have a prospective future issue to be countermarked with a greyhound or portcullis? Alternatively, if they are not legal tender, then there is no reason why anybody can't gert a job lot made in China for 10p each and flog them at a huge profit. If not legal tender, then this would not be illegal, methinks.

Coins of all grades have a place in any collection. Sometimes it is Hobson's Choice with one date from a run only available in low grade whilst being able to fill all the others with minty examples. A run of mint state coins can be just as uninspring as a box of washers when they are uniform in colour, differing maybe only by a small change to the last datal figure.

Guesstimate of 5-10% but no more, maybe less. It's a good job the date isn't rare otherwise you might struggle to pick one up. As I recall, it took me a good year or two to find an acceptable example.

Correct. This coin went for one bid above my maximum in the saleroom, but I received an invoice at my max a couple weeks later. Presumably not made reserve and the seller cut their losses. http://

I had it in hand

I have seen something crude that looks to be in good agreement for a halfgroat, both stylistically and in weight.

Correct

A type collector will get an example of each basic type, usually the cheapest date for the issue unless they have deeper pockets. Many but not all issues have a key date which costs multiples of the cheapest year.

Nice coin. It's always good to match these up to old drawings as a little artistic license was usually employed. This series has a way to go yet, with hitherto unrecorded denominations.

Neither you, myself or anyone else is obliged to use them. It is however a legitimate business which advertises a service and provides what is offered. If you don't want TPGs, then to put them out of business you have to destroy their raison d'etre which ultimately will require people to be educated in coin grading and authentication from birth, thus doing away with the need to obtain a second opinion. I think there are more important things to worry about.

Firstly, comparing the two coins is irrelevant because what was needed was a before and after picture, no two coins being the same. That said, it is not necessary to try to use acetone on every coin as the only reason would be to remove soluble deposits, most of which are likely to be residue from fingers. Coins will tone naturally from exposure to the atmosphere. This would not be removed. Some people are obsessed with cleaning everything in acetone - I am not convinced. If it isn't obvious why you would need to use a solvent, then why do it?

I cannot tell a lie. It was me. It was this one from the June 2013 sale

I would say blocked dies for the shield because it looks as though there is a trace of the bottom one with a bit of profile detail. The missing AE is yet another spelling mistake. There are quite a few in James. There is a possibility that the obverse mark is lis over thistle.

Looks like everyone got most of what they wanted judging by conversations today at Harrogate. Durham House bust 6 coins rarely come up in very good condition. FWIW I thought I paid tops when I bought mine, but in retrospect it was not so bad. There are a handful knocking around in acceptable condition which were illustrated in the past - which says something. Mine is ex Parsons and Ryan.

It would be much easier if the o/p had just a picture of the coin on a plain background and filling the frame. 3/4 of the image is wasted, Just a plain scan would be better, less clutter = easier id.

The first illustrated dedicated crown collection was Barron in 1906. There are plenty of sales with a lot of crowns in, but these are usually interspersed with other things.