Rob

'Stylised A' mintmark on this fine detailed VF obverse! Saxby's has always been a byword for things to avoid IMHO. Thankfully the listings always used to be obvious and so easily avoided. Not looked recently though. I'll have a few Matildas if you don't mind. Well, maybe not.

Better list the trays, otherwise any buyer might find his/her coins don't fit.

That's what I use. It doesn't matter as long as it is searchable. There is a limit to the number of things you want to search, so keep some of the info off the sheet in a separate file dedicated to that coin.

Not popular. There is too much large and interesting Chas 1 material for the small things to get much attention.

You could all of these in the next two weeks. Spink have all three. DNW could provide a Ch2 2/6d, as could St. James's which also have a G1 5/-, Corbitts don't have a G1 5/-, but do have the others. Spoilt for choice.

I agree - but my point was that the penny equivalent is worth far more, as halfpennies just aren't fashionable. Sure it will sell, at a good price for a halfpenny, but... I concur.

I'd be interested in it.

o***t (2001) I reckon. Although only 11% bids with this seller, and shops for all sorts of other stuff, he's retracted 49 bids. I've been shopping on eBay nearly 10 years and I've never retracted a bid. That one only bid up to 150 on the first listing. Sorry, should have said r***6 - crap eyesight. He won it at the beginning of the month.

Websites takes too long to update. I set out with good intentions whereby I thought I could update every few days, but usually find there's no time. By the time you have got decent images, copy and pasted existing entries which are then amended to the new coin's spec, set the paths, upload the revised lists and new images to the host and then check everything is working - you can easily lose a day. The temptation to revert to playing with atoms in a vacuum is immense.

Who is the shill on this one? n***6 doesn't fit in with the characters I'm familiar with. The description is a joke on this one. Excessively rare - not. Quite common compared to a lot of Soho pieces thanks to the number that have entered the market courtesy of the Boulton family. Obviously doesn't read the Circular, or if read promptly ignored Mick's article. Auction prices suggest 1500-2000 - where? Anyone paying that amount for a P1258 needs to see a man in a white coat. £400-600 is about right for this in the current market, so the underbidder wasn't being unreasonable. You can get one of the rarer types of 1797 proof pennies for just over 1K, so why pay nearly double for something common?

Most dealers there I'd never heard of, Clive, and looking them up afterwards quite a few have no internet presence at all, which is remarkable. Quite old school in a way - it almost felt a bit "underground", compared to the mainstream I'm used to swimming in. As well as Rob, the other people who sold me stuff were: David Craddock Birmingham Coins Ian Pratt Paul Davis Numismatic Legends D T Peake K B Coins Dave Craddock and K B Coins are very much old-timers - I remember them from the mid-90s. Possibly Ian Pratt too? but the other names are unfamiliar. Did you happen to see Dorset Coins, Carlton Coins, Lockdales, or Wayne Nicholls there? They were familiar faces to me all those years ago. Carlton Coins is Derek Peake

See, I'll wean you off eBay eventually. You can't beat a coin fair. What you see is what you get, unlike eBay where what you see you might get applies. Coin fairs also filter out the washers, because nobody wants to carry them around for the day. They go into the melting pot as a default action. It's actually quite difficult to find something in less than fine at a coin fair unless it is at the very least scarce or rare. You will, Rob, of that there's no doubt! I even caught myself fantasising about having a table but I'd have to get into buying stock for stock's sake, and I'm not sure I want to do down that route. I have always avoided buying downgrades, so, unlike most dealers, I don't have sacks of junk in the cellar that I have cherry picked. I'm not sure Gnome Cottage has room for a cellar.

See, I'll wean you off eBay eventually. You can't beat a coin fair. What you see is what you get, unlike eBay where what you see you might get applies. Coin fairs also filter out the washers, because nobody wants to carry them around for the day. They go into the melting pot as a default action. It's actually quite difficult to find something in less than fine at a coin fair unless it is at the very least scarce or rare.

One to avoid bookmarking. Plastering images of 5 guineas and high grade hammered gives you a false sense of anticipation.

I'm not sure future generations will ever appreciate YOUR collection. They might appreciate their collection, but even if they adopt yours along the way, odds on that they will keep a few bits but throw out more. Collections are quite personal. To have any hope of them continuing what you started you will need to involve them long before you're pushing up the daisies.

You must have been like a kid in a sweet shop. See what happens when you get let off the lead.

Where you go depends on what you want. Ask the questions and you will get answers. Old coins covers a few thousand years of history starting with Lydia in around 700 BC through to decimalisation in 1970 and those decimals no longer circulating. All of us will accept returns in the event of you not being happy with a coin, but first you have to know what you want to collect. There are plenty of reputable characters in the business, but like most capable people tend not to shout from the rooftops. Personal recommendation from a third party is always a good sign.

I would say buy a selection of books first, then buy the coins. I would advise against going too heavily into ebay as ignorance/deceit/overpriced tat are everywhere. If you do decide to go down the ebay route, disregard the assigned grades. As you are a novice, buy Derek's grading book first so that you decide the grade and not the vendor. The beauty of books is that you can decide what you like from the images and then start from a position of some knowledge.

From 1806 to 1811 they were valued at 5/6d, hence the 5/6d bank tokens of 1811. When the first countermarked pieces were about to be issued at 4/6d, the price of silver increased and so had to be issued at 4/9d instead. This increased to 5/- and eventually 5/6d due to the increase in silver prices as a result of the Napoleonic Wars.

I too have suffered your problem. Mine variously tells me to go out and buy some more, but soon after is telling me to sell some. When I suggest things to sell, I'm told it isn't the right ones and when I'm told to buy a coin I've targeted, I'm told I spend too much on coins, even if it is a bargain. Confused? I am. I think the answer is to work a bit harder and with surplus funds in abundance the problems would go away.

Bl**dy text speak. Yes I can see the left of lighhouse as they call it.

In addition to the bubbles, it looks like the flaw has been mostly tooled out which may be one reason for their assessment.

Which will of course decrease their business, so they will put up the costs to customers again and decrease their business further until it goes pop. Bring it on! Sadly this is unlikely as there are enough idiots out there who will not recognise they are overpaying because sellers will have to incorporate their charges in the listing price. If more people realised there is another planet (called earth) apart from ebay, more people could have more things for the same outlay. The number of people who only go to eBay when buying must be quite significant.

Hi Matt. Welcome to the forum. The coin is ok. A little flat in the middle, but round and fully struck up which is a good starting point. You have asked a very difficult question because hammered coinage is so varied that most periods have their own restricted references. Until you have decided where to specialise, a general reference or two would be ok. North vols. 1 & 2 cover up to 1272 and 1272-1662, so your coin would be in volume 2. A copy of Coincraft wouldn't go amiss. The last one was in 2000, but the varieties are quite well laid out and it gives good collecting tips for each type. Spink's Coins of England will give an indication of prices for the various issues. Once you have decided what to collect, your library will need to expand considerably to accommodate the more detailed references which are too numerous to list given we potentially have coins covering 1700 years if you include Celtic through to Charles II.

Knowing the weight would help.