Rob

It was, limited to 10m, and that's not the Isle of Man.

It would have helped if the RM hadn't changed the crown from a 5 shilling/25p denomination to £5. The listing says a £5 coin. Whether they realise or not, I don't know, but they are clearly expecting the buyer to think it's a £5 coin.

Don't know why it does this. repeat post.

Relax, chill out and assess coins for yourself using your standards. Nobody is forced to buy a coin just because it has a number on the label. Frequently the number assigned will be at odds with your assessment. For a better chance of satisfaction, go with your own feelings about the coin that you will have to live with until disposal. I have a 61 that is better than a 65 of the same type, both in the collection. The real bonus is the strict pricing applied in the US where a 61 is a non-coin and hence can be purchased cheaply. Number collectors will turn their noses up at excellent examples of coins simply on the grounds that another example has been graded higher. Make the most of the situation on the ground and fill your boots.

I agree with Peck, in these very low grades even rare coins aren't worth much. For a 1903 HC in a low grade, there is probably a range of £30-£150 from Good - Fine. Beware of edge knocks, dinks, scratches and graffiti too. If you are anything like me, you will get far more pleasure from owning an attractive coin, compared to a low grade rare date for the same price Yeeees, sort of agree. But collectors like to put together date runs and any run of 20th century halfcrowns is going to be limited by what grade of 1905 and to a lesser extent 1903 they can afford. When I was collecting I used to have mental limits below which I would not go; good honest wear was okay but blatant cleaning, damage or graffiti was definitely beyond the pale. It may not be a popular view but within those limits I would much rather have had a coin 'in the hole' rather than a glaring gap. It is always possible to upgrade and I used to find this one of the most satisfying aspects of collecting. Anyway, it would be nice to see a picture of spw's halfcrown. 'NVG' can cover a multitude of sins! .........starting with not very good.

White balance raises its ugly head whatever the background. I also use backgrounds that give the lowest failure rates which, for me, involves 2 background colours, dependent on whether the coin is silver, bright bronze, or lustred, etc. I started using that old text background because it was the most effective, colour wise, but it made it difficult to cut the coins out with software afterwards, which I decided to start doing for tonal consistency of backgrounds across the website, recent additions list, etc. So I now use matt black and white for photography. As an indicator, the white background can be anything from blue, green, right through to pink, by the time I've played with the image in a photo suite! I then cut it out in Serif Plus and, hey presto, the background is brilliant white for all my images. That sounds like too much time required if all you want to do is load up a few images of coins for sale. As nice as perfection is, time has a cost. It already takes a few hours to add half a dozen coin images to the site given the vagaries of auto-defocus, flash working or not depending on the levels of light available, camera shake. Needless to say, it acts as a drag on the enthusiasm for listing things. I have to confess that I thought it would be much easier and take less time to take decent pics and upload them than it does in reality. It would be better if these clever cameras (which do everything except make a cup of tea), could adjust the image to give a standard colour. i.e. they know what 6000K white or whatever looks like, and every picture taken should be corrected, or at least correctable to this or these pre-set standards. I can see that you would need more than one reference point to cover absent reference colours. They must have some digital value corresponding to a particular shade of a colour which can have a specific number of bits added to or subtracted from it, or is that an unreasonable presumption?

What happens to white balance when you typically don't use any white in the pictures. I know someone (TG?) said they didn't like my green background, but I use it because it gives the lowest failure rate to my eyes. If I use a white background, it was problematic before and so presumably would be again

Pictures speak a thousand words! Bring it on Peter....... I've got a major task it setting up a system for good photography (better than ebay quality) I have bought cameras and LED lights...now practice In my experience, you'll want to keep LED lights as far away from coins as you can manage. Most decent cameras will make use of even a small amount of light, as long as it exceeds the minimum required - the only issue is white-balance. In this respect, I have found that low-power Compact Fluorescent bulbs make an almost ideal light source. Can anything beat natural daylight? When I use natural light, coins look horribly contrasted. The colour is cold and nothing like reality.

Doubt it. The whole early small change field is littered with unrecorded overdates/legend errors etc. It is highly likely that the die in use at the end of the calendar year was overcut and continued being used the following year. The chance of a die becoming unserviceable on New Year's Eve is low, but not impossible. The only reason they are unrecorded is because no one has bothered to do the research. There's a task for someone, including those with shallow pockets given most years struck can be obtained in UNC for less than £100.

Is the weight right? Does the detail match an example of the same type if you have one? If you have sovereigns in the plural, there should be a few pointers from these to say if it's dodgy.

Can't be much more than 2 hours drive from your place. Straight up the A1 to the 614 roundabout, cut across to the M1 at jcn 31 and you are nearly there.

They use cameo to described a frosted bust. The difference in cameo and ultra cameo is in the eyes of the person writing out the label. Yes, it's hyping and only comes into play when you have someone buying the label rather than looking at the coin and then making a decision.

Buy it at Wakefield tomorrow if you want it. Tony has the table next to me.

Not forgetting the eighteen pence, three shillings, and dollar, not to mention broad, angel, unite, and counterstamped "pieces of 8" Mm, I obviously did not think this one fully through, I was trying to make the poll on what I would consider the standard pre-decimal denominations. Maybe this needs a re-think or a new poll? Ideas anyone? How about, "What is your favourite denomination for collecting purposes?" All of them. Logically, if you have no favourite, you should answer "none of them" Correct. My mistake.

Not forgetting the eighteen pence, three shillings, and dollar, not to mention broad, angel, unite, and counterstamped "pieces of 8" Mm, I obviously did not think this one fully through, I was trying to make the poll on what I would consider the standard pre-decimal denominations. Maybe this needs a re-think or a new poll? Ideas anyone? How about, "What is your favourite denomination for collecting purposes?" All of them.

Which is precisely why I'm not sure that it is worth ticking every box. When one of the aims of the collection is an example of every denomination, ticking every box above is a given. However, there are a few denominations which don't stretch to 5 different coins such as quarter guineas (2 currency & 1 pattern), one ducat (1), 5 farthings (2), 5 francs international (1), the various testerns or the Scarborough oddballs etc. Of the mainstream denominations though only the quarter guinea would fail to make the list. Even the revalued James 1st hammered gold issues such as the 11s angel have sufficient initial marks and overmarks to make a collection of at least 5 pieces.

That's where the sun don't shine. Oo'er.

Where did this image come from? I will add it to the database or append to an existing entry if I have the image recorded. It's a bit flat, but quite a clean coin if you just want an example. The gold one has been badly tooled, and the attempted piercing(?) doesn't do anything for it either. At least the first gold one would tone down over time.

Absolutely dazzling - literally.

Sorry, you are right. Rauf goes to 7a at Bury, 7b at London. The shape of the R is more akin to the 7a coins illustrated in North which still have reasonable beards. The pellet on the chin comes in 7b, which I assume the blob to be hence the indecision. RAUF or RAULF could well be the same person, as variations in the moneyers' names are encountered from time to time, but there is nothing else listed in North approximating to the ending.

Yes, I've got one who returns every 3 or 4 months and his card fails. Then I'm asked how to make a card payment that works. My reply last time was that he should use a legitimate card and not use the details of a lady in North London as he did on the previous occasion. Not heard from him(?) for a bit.

The problem is that any seller who wants a reasonable return has to overprice in order to recoup the ebay charges. When you are losing 15-20% in fees, it has to be recovered by charging more. If sellers still had the option to bypass Paypal, it would be possible to reduce the charges and so lower prices to the buyer. Many of my sales and purchases on eBay have ended up outside of eBay and Paypal, even with my first transaction with a buyer or seller Once a negotiation starts, it becomes immediately obvious that it would be mutually beneficial to cut eBay and PayPal out of the equation (once you have established some trust!). EBay hate it of course, but there are ways and means that are not complicated, and the best thing is it builds you an invaluable network of trusted contacts for repeat business! So I think you may want to experiment with the Bay Rob, see what you think! I used to. I stopped when they made accepting Paypal obligatory. Having previously had a fallout with them which ended up at the ombudsman and me a few hundred pounds richer, it was a decision that I was never going to rescind. eBay's policy of buyer good, seller bad is hardly welcoming, and to ensure you get a fair return, you need to start above £1 which means people ignore the listing. On balance, the hassle of listing for a week or ten days, but not selling because you aren't offering the item on a 99% discount is unattractive.

Neither an accurate nor an honest description. Still some mugs who see the word "gold" and trip over their brain cell in a rush to reach their wallet though (yes, I know I used cell in the singular) Saxby's always been easy to spot from afar and thus easy to avoid. The on screen portrayal may have changed over the years, but the undesirability of what's on offer hasn't.

The problem is that any seller who wants a reasonable return has to overprice in order to recoup the ebay charges. When you are losing 15-20% in fees, it has to be recovered by charging more. If sellers still had the option to bypass Paypal, it would be possible to reduce the charges and so lower prices to the buyer.

On the basis of the obverse letter R I think we are looking at a class 7 here, but which sub-group I don't know. 7b is a possibility with the pellet on the chin. That doesn't answer your question as this moneyer struck at both London & Bury mints from class 6c-7b and presumably transferred on a regular basis as required. I think we can eliminate Rauf at Winchester who struck in class 5.