Rob

My thoughts were that it is water worn or ground corrosion. Same alloy component involved (copper) and same effect whether it is silver or gold.

You will need a greater accuracy than that obtained with kitchen scales. A couple of decimal places is required.

So a blank that missed the plating process in that case.

Is it magnetic? An unclad blank would be, a Cu-Ni flan for something else not.

You're the second person to ask what the mint is.

A Friday afternoon job. MA over FR, though the M is also blundered and entered twice, the G possibly with either a flaw or over the left side of an M, the following R made from a couple of misplaced Es which were reinforced to form the R and F of FR over an E. Apart from that it's fine.

Canterbury. Allen die pair 97. I can see someone being disappointed.

Nope.

The York Fair is at the racecourse this coming Friday and Saturday. Plenty of dealers there in one place, so you could pop in if you are close.

All dealers will buy coins - they have to in order to make a living. Whereabouts are you? There might be someone close.

Again. Why? After 10% ebay and 0.034% +20p Paypal fees which come to just under 14%, you are left with 200-210. You would get more from a dealer for a sovereign given its spot value is currently just under 230.

Why would you do that? 1 new pence is 2.4 old pence. The scrap copper value is a couple (new) pence per old penny. i.e 5 times or so face.

£275 Fine, £700 VF. The second is better, but still room for improvement.

I'd go for a better one. They are relatively cheap as hammered gold goes and not rare.

These will never be put to bed. Everyone wants to find the coin worth a grand instead of a quid, so satin Churchills, proof just about anything and the good old 2 new pence questions amongst others are likely to be asked in perpetuity.

If you don't already have one, get a yearly price reference, Spink's Coins of England or Collector's Coins (at the top of this page in the advert) will do and it doesn't have to be the latest volume either because all the types available are laid out and rarity pretty much correlates to price. Do the exercise and you will learn as you familiarise yourself with the prices, what constitutes an affordable year. or indeed whether it is possible.

They are unadopted designs, but are equally part of numismatic history alongside the adopted pieces and in my view eminently collectable. Go for it and treat yourself. They are almost invariably cheaper than a currency piece with similar numbers extant, and are usually found in high grade. They add a nice bit of variety to a collection. Prices are a lot less volatile too.

It's as good a dot as any other.

Looking at all the G3s I have pictures of here, there appears to be an issue with the Es from 1817 onwards and that continues through to the 1825 laureate head G4s. Don't have any 1826s on file, but coin archives has an 1826 with fully formed Es, so assume it's intermittent.

It could be, but is more likely a shadow as the tail of the R matches the horizontal line at that point.

The pound recoinage was obviously a major event drawing resources from elsewhere. But given there was an increase in digital money transactions with a low maximum value, it wouldn't surprise me if there were in fact zero mintages for some denominations due to reduced need for small change. I don't know what percentage of transactions under £30 were cash or not, but I see a significant number of people are using the card before cash. That is change they don't have to hold in their pocket.

Top one. The bottom one has been cleaned.

Not related to the 1877 Silver Jubilee 25p crowns by any chance? Chinese copies can be anything. Definitely need a picture with a close-up of the date.

At £27 for a copy, I'm not sure. There's been no shortage of accurately described copies of various types selling for more.