Gary D

Hi Marc, Welcome to the forum. If you refer to an item on say ebay please post a link to the item so we can all see it and give an opinion. Gary

My misses the other day accused me of acting like a 5 year old, does that count

WOW! That microscope of yours certainly delivered some very clear results. I think that you may have hit the proverbial nail on the head there Azda. It does look like the R has been double struck, and although my knowledge is limited, that is how it at least looks to my eye. To my eye the curle sticks out too far to be part of a B, I go for the double struck theory Gary

Just doesn't look right link

I had Peter make the stand for it at the same time. I've also installed a steel cable to an eye in the wall just to slow them down, mind you it's about 30kg which would make the average scrote bend at the knees. Gary

Do bear in mind that even mahogany CAN cause what is called "cabinet toning". I have two Peter Nichols cabinets, and the smaller one (with punched coin recesses) causes no toning. The larger one with flat felt-lined trays (no recesses) causes some toning on silver. Which ones are they from the range he provides, Peck ? I find my Peter Nichols is toning my copper. I have just installed a dehumidifier pack to see if that helps. By the way Peter has just sold his cabinet business. Gary I know I shouldn't do this everytime someone mentions coin storage, but hay.

Do bear in mind that even mahogany CAN cause what is called "cabinet toning". I have two Peter Nichols cabinets, and the smaller one (with punched coin recesses) causes no toning. The larger one with flat felt-lined trays (no recesses) causes some toning on silver. Which ones are they from the range he provides, Peck ? I find my Peter Nichols is toning my copper. I have just installed a dehumidifier pack to see if that helps. By the way Peter has just sold his cabinet business. Gary

Maundy money is enjoying quiet a revival at the moment. Their price has doubled in the last 12-18 months Gary

Just did a seach other items which brought up general household goods and the 1934 crown that was the only coin. Gary D

Mmmm, sells shoes and coats oh and a 5 grand coin.

There are others more knowledgeable than me, but my understanding is that blobs of weld are laid into the die and then ground down but this does leave a couple of problems in my mind; 1) When patching the bodywork of a car, a skilled automotive welder can lay blobs of weld into the interface between old and new metal in such a way that you have no idea there is a patch there. That being the case, why couldn't the mint make a better job of it? 2) When did they invent welding anyway?* * Just searched the internet. In the Bronze Age apparently... Welding may have been around since the bronze age but it was carried out by a blacksmith who would heat the two component parts to white heat and after laying them together bash brutaly with a big hammer, not the sort of treatment conducive to repairing coin dies.

I wonder if I took my collection along to him he would perk it up a bit, could do with an extra grade here and there

I would have thought the poorer peep were using copper not silver. I've always considered the name "Maundy set" a misnomer. The 1d 2d 3d and 4d were coins of the realm that were just bundled up and given away by the monarch on Maundy Tuesday. They weren't sets of 4 coins, just the number of coins needed to make made up the appropiate sum for that years ceremony. It would be rare for any years coins to divide up nicely into sets of four, there would more often than not be spares. I believe the nice little boxes we see were sold seperatly for anyone who wanted to make them up into sets. I suspect that in the early years whilst the coins were legal currency most got spent anyway. Just my thoughts Gary

Am I reading this right. He's not selling the coins just a list of them Link

If the British Isles on the reverse is coloured in 22 caret gold it will be the proof in silver. I only have the Millenium dome version which has incuse edge lettering. Spink doesn't mention the whether the lettering is raised or incuse. Gary

It's not a gold proof is it? This is the bit I like best Clearly a well-circulated coin, the higher points of its design are noticeably and predictably worn/smoothed though much more on the front than on the “young headed†- or “bun-headed†- rear which consequently still features considerable fine detail. However both sides are clearly enhanced by a substantial, and distinctly appealing, lustre.

It's nice to see that someone is prepared to put so much time and effort into their merchandise Bling

But if we are right and it's been tooled, it is now a severely damaged coin with a much lower retail value David You could be right David, but look at how much "tooled" 1933 pennies fetch on the 'Bay! Retooled 1933 pennies are sold as just that, a retooled 1933 penny. A 1882 will have had the H removed to deceive.

I think you'll find it was bankers (in both senses). Aided and abetted by governments who didn't regulate them. I think you will find that the bubble will have burst with or without the bankers. The problems we are in at this moment is largely due to government over borrowing. The bankers just happened to be in the wrong place at the wrong time, scapegoat anyone, very convenient. Gary

I love these sort of statistics and it just confirms what I thought that later gold really didn't circulate for long. When writing the 'Standard Guide...' I had real problems in tracking down any late-Victorian gold below VF. It is, I suppose, quite possible that this type of article raised a hue and cry about 'underweight gold' and the mint sharpened up its act. With the passing of the Gold Standard, I guess people didn't worry about whether the coins in their pocket were underweight or no... It was my understanding, correctly or not that Gold was generally only minted for bullion purposes and was regularly melted and reminted. It often saw very little true circulation as it was used mainly for payments between institutions and governments largely. Gary

My fake doesn't have it either. Here's my 1903 along side may fake 1905. Not a good picture of the 1905, it's not shiny in the hand.

Gary, i started a thread in free for all called USEFUL LINKS. The 1st site i uploaded is about fakes, i don't know if its the one you are reffering to, but take a look. Yes that's the one. I had tried to search the site on various occassions with no luck. Here is the info but it lacks any descrition.

I once found a website dealing with fakes and there was a discription of all the pointer to distinguish the fake 1905. I lost the link when my hard drive packed up and have since been unable to find the info. Just a note about my 1905 EF gap filler, it's starting to take on that grey toning. I guess it's to do with whatever is in the mix with the 90% silver.

I know I keep banging on about it but it's also got the broken R in George. This is Edward lol Luckily there is an R in Edward as well

I know I keep banging on about it but it's also got the broken R in George.