Peckris

It looks kind of ok for the 4th Bust, but the legend is a little out of whack with the design. The omission of the B means one of two things : 1. it's a contemporary forgery (the weight should be 8.3 - 8.4 gms, yours is a little out) 2. it's a rare variety I'd incline more to the first, to be honest, but maybe you need the opinion of others more familiar with the gold series.

Edited to add: the larger picture didn't seem to be there when I started replying, but now it is. It's still a bit on the small size but I can at least see the legend and the bust. Not sure what you've done there Kev! That image is so tiny it is virtually invisible. The way to do it is - 1. When posting, click the "Choose File" button below and select a picture from your computer (make sure it is no greater than 150k). 2. Click "Attach This File" 3. Click "Add to Post" Then when you're done and added any text to your reply, click "Add Reply"

You MAY be right about a "coin worth many thousands", but actually, in those cases I doubt very much that a slabbing will affect the value much if at all. It's lower value items where a slab - rightly or wrongly - can add so much value. As for constructive criticism: 1. Dave has already pointed out, TPG companies do make mistakes, and fakes have been noted. So much for a cast-iron guarantee. 2. Storage - for those of us who own nice mahogany cabinets with proper 'cut outs', the slab is a disaster area. They cannot be stored in any of the traditional coin storage media, and they take up a hell of a lot of room. 3. Photography - very difficult if not impossible to take a decent picture, which is essential if selling. 4. Insurance - I have my own database which not only has scans of every coin that is worth more than £15-£20, but - unlike a slab - has the date purchased, where from, how much paid, notes on any distinguishing features, etc etc. More use to an insurance assessor than a slab that's ... oh, gone! stolen! 5. Handling - yes, those of us who own nice coins actually DO like to handle them every now and again.. wearing cotton gloves.. holding and tilting to view in just the right light.. examining through a loupe for any unsuspected varieties.. A slab makes all of that difficult. As for preserving its condition, you only have to look at Royal Mint proof sets from the 1970s to see how well sealed coins are 'protected' - true, you can't scratch them, but they can tone UGLY. Those who like slabs will continue to sing their praises no doubt, but there is a majority against them in this forum at least.

It looks to me like Freeman 4+D - the one you saw was probably 6+D which is a little scarcer than 4+D. It's always harder to tell on a specimen that worn, but I would say F15 is the likeliest one. Obverse 6 was the first one with a reduced gap between the top of the bust and the teeth - yours is clearly earlier. It really is incredibly difficult to be sure when virtually all the identifying signs are long gone. I might even plump for F13 (3 + D) as the front of QV's bust meets the rim vertically. On the other obverses the bust meets at an angle. Beyond that I'd really not like to say. I plumped for Obverse 4 because it seems to have that 'cutaway' for the signature below the bust that isn't there on Obverse 3? But it's hard to tell with that amount of wear.

It looks to me like Freeman 4+D - the one you saw was probably 6+D which is a little scarcer than 4+D. It's always harder to tell on a specimen that worn, but I would say F15 is the likeliest one. Obverse 6 was the first one with a reduced gap between the top of the bust and the teeth - yours is clearly earlier.

Pistrucci didn't get executed for his (probably accurate) portrait! My point was, why bother with a coronation medalet four years after the event, particularly one so crudely designed? And if it actually dates to 1821, how do you equate that particular portrait with that period?

Yes, a very interesting presentation. There is my usual problem with the portrait however. If this is really from 1821, why is it not the usual "fatty Georgie Porgie" portrait based on his obese appearance of the time? Instead, it appears to be a crudely engraved version of the 'slimmed down' Chantrey sculpture of 1825 which Wyon based his portrait on. Unless the medalet was redone in the mid-1820s but using George III counterfeit lettering punches - but then, the question arises "why do a new medalet so long after the event, of a monarch who was so wildly unpopular?"

I should know what that means - it was our school motto! "In (by, with) harmony, small things grow". (It's actually RES PARVAE - "small things" - of which I was certainly one )

Have a close look at that first penny, the 1897. The reverse isn't half bad -there's a complete shield, and Britannia has most detail apart from some wear to her leg, and those all-important fingers on the trident. I'd say it is between VF and EF (ignoring the artificial lustre). However the obverse isn't so good - an EF or UNC example would show much more detail especially to the veil and lower bust and ear. I'd say it was less than VF. But all in all it isn't too bad, and I certainly wouldn't collect that series in anything less than that (preferably better). The second one 1899 is poor, and if you look at the two side by side you will see how much worse. I hope that gives you an idea of what to look out for.

I collect pennies but am not aware of anyone really collecting misalignments, other than as an interesting curio. To be honest, I rarely check alignment so whilst certainly not common, it's hard to accurately estimate rarity. Interesting all the same, and a good spot! I think if it was 180 degrees out it would cause more interest. I have a 1948 penny that is 160-170 degrees so nearly there. Just checked mine, most are 360 degrees out ... I have one that's 359º out - should I retire?

:blink: No thanks. i always hope my death would involve cats or guns.

45º is quite a big misalignment - not usual to find them that out of true. Worth keeping, but I don't know how valuable it is (probably only to those who collect such things).

Always buy as good as you can afford - you'll enjoy the coins more, and they will be a better investment if you care about that sort of thing. For example, it's much better to spend £100 on a single bun penny in EF or better, than 20 bun pennies in Fine condition. The other thing is that Victorian pennies are very popular, so they aren't cheap! I don't know anything about French coins.

Is it just my computer or is Marina only half loaded? (I'm Sorry, I'll Read That Again...)

Photobucket shouldn't be an application on your computer - it's a website that you use to upload pictures to. The actual speed of upload depends on how fast your broadband is. When you're not actually on the Photobucket website, you shouldn't notice your computer slowing down. Firefox is a browser that you use to access the internet, i.e. websites. What browser do you use currently - Internet Explorer?

I would say it is in Fine condition for wear, but there's some corrosion damage. A long (i.e. months) soak in olive oil might help, but it may not be recoverable. Value would somewhere between £5 and £10 in my estimation. But there's pretty good detail on it.

Pass! Wouldn't mind the regular issue though.

Happy birthday!

Personally, I don't think it's worth quibbling about a decent loupe that costs either one pound something or two pounds something ... still a good price.

Is "30 x 21mm" the field of view? Or does it mean 30x magnification through a 21mm lens? I might be interested..

Lol, i Doubt it, a serious collector would'nt pay those prices, some unsuspecting ebayer might though. Any eBay buyer who spends that kind of money without (1) basic knowledge or (2) consulting any catalogue of recent years, deserves all they get IMO.

Not so much collect them, but having been at auctions in the late 90s, I bought some because they were way below their book price. The only ones I think worthwhile are the "first" or "last", e.g. 1983 £1, 1982 20p, 1990 5p, 1992 10p, etc. But I'm sure some people like the poor things!

I agree, but the truth is that most of them are unnamed campaign medals issued and handed out by the truckload. Entirely deserving, but sadly collectors see them so often that without a name they just won't bother.

Pictures would help Welcome to the forums .