Peckris

It is and it isn't. It is a kind of catchall to dump all uncollectable coins into. But you will not find a description of the condition, except something vague "so worn as to be uncollectable" or something like that. If you had an 1869 penny that was better than "CD" but worse than "About Fair", you probably would be advised to not grade it but just throw it up on eBay with pictures.

Both the fact he is able to list the same thing twice and the label on the slab. Maybe it is my screen, but I can't see anything wrong with it, unless it is a laminating flan - but then you have to take NGC's word for it Nor I. And how come he is selling it again, when he sold it for £310 a few days ago??? Buyer pulled out, or what?

Apparently it's called a 'console', and it plays games. Oh, and it fails often and spectacularly. Made by Microsoft. That's about all *I* know.

There aren't any official numismatic grades below Fair. You can consider EVERY coin below About Fair as Poor - grading subtle distinctions of Poor is not something that any collector would be interested in. You can add the distinction of CD (Clear Date) for rarities, e.g. bun pennies that conveniently leave their dates readable when all else is blank. Otherwise, all such coins merely have a scrap or bullion value.

Insert spam links into what looks like a genuine reply to a forum post. xbox 360 key r4 card cheapest r4 Yep I have no interest whatsoever. Then follow them up with a spam reply that looks kind of genuine at first glance. Damn, these bots are getting cleverer! there are absolutely no difference between the r4's these days. may of them are either clones of the actual r4 card, while others are clones of the acekard brand flashcarts. r4's may be popular, but every single one of them these days are fakes/clones, and there are heaps of better flashcarts to choose from.

Bet it never gets as big as the British thread. Just a thought True, probably Scott and I mainly David How could I forget scott! The thread may well grow to the size of the other then

Bet it never gets as big as the British thread. Just a thought

Yes, a sov is approximately the size of a shilling.

Oh I say. It looks Arabic or failing that Urdu. Definitely not Gibberish, which is generally found between Lowestoft to the east and Lands End to the west.

Suspect it was a half sovereign although the size you gave doesn't tally (1/2 sovereigns are just short of 2mm.). If it was a full sovereign, you were well and truly screwed! Yeah, looking at the comparative pictures above, it has to be a half sov. It's significantly smaller than the shilling.

That's EXTREMELY suspicious. The enlarged photographs, while not having the classic appearance of a negative, nevertheless appear to be the inverse of the NGC slabbed pictures. The light areas of the latter seem dark in the enlargements, while the blue areas appear red, and vice versa. At the very least, there has been some jiggery-photoshoppery.

Hiya again, got £100 for the gold one which i thought was quite good, since im pretty skint lol(that'll do my wee girls birthday next month)....though she did try to tell me she was only giving me £40 'hahahaha' was my reaction (nice try misses). Just shows you, they try to rip folk off. The other coins are doing terribly on ebay like you said £100 - good result for a fairly standard sovereign! Mind you, not being a gold collector, I have no idea if that's a fair reflection of current bullion values? But £100 is a LOT better than £40

interesting, i may try that for myself on 1 or 2 cheapie coins. i do like the lovely blue tone some of my victorian silver has, but i hate the extreme rainbow toning that the americans seem to like. Artificially assisted very often. E.g. petrol. The petrol,is that only used for silver or is it used on copper coins to the same effect.I have a couple of farthings I bought from the USA,graded by NGC,that are quite colourful.You have me thinking now.I did wonder how they toned to the colours. Hm - it could have been oiled at some point, but blatant rainbow toning (as seen on eBay) is usually much more obvious than that.

Possible - but if you look at GRA B and the upper crown between, you can just see what looks like original toning, making the cleaned scenario a distinct possibility. But it should retone, one would hope.

I think it was about 12 months ago Peter, 1st time i heard about it was when the ebay seller alfnail was selling one on ebay, it was less than Fine grade and sold for 540 quid i believe. I think that there's more known than the 7 Michael Gouby has now noted. The guy who own this one in the 1st post has noted himself 7 already in various auctions, then there's his, plus the one davidrj found and the one i have so that's 10 so far.Maybe John Stephenson has one, maybe it's time to dig out those old 1863s and take a looksy Earlier than that Dave, Not mentioned by either Peck (1970) or Freeman (1985), but Gouby illustrates one in his 1986 book, rating it as R7 (Exremely rare) with a price of £40 in Fine, also listed by Satin as his No.46 (2003) I'm really not surprised. It's got to be the smallest variety in existence (I mean, in terms of how significant the difference is, and how easy to spot). The narrow 3 - for all the ribaldry some here give it - is a massive change by comparison. Only the rare 1908 penny variant is comparable in 'now you see it, now you don't'.

St George and the Shetland pony vanquish the winged stoat

Amonia would certainly work on the verdigris, but it evaporates quickly, so cannot just be put on affected parts of the surface and if you immerse the coin in the ammonia you strip the patina. Being me, I would have to experiment, particularly as it is pretty much unsaleable as it stands. Oh, I don't know. The obverse is totally unaffected, and it's a VF coin otherwise.

I imagine those trials are extremely rare. As ever though, rarities depend on the size of the market for them. The very famous 1933 penny would fetch 10 times the price of an equally rare bun penny variety. It would certainly feel good to own something that rare though.

Hahaha - "I can see the join, Ern". Apparently it's a "misprint".

OK, here's my way of treating a toned copper coin coin with a verdigris hole appearing; 1) Carefully scour the hole with a needle to remove as much verdigris as possible; 2) Carefully wash coin; 3) Soak end of cocktail stick in ammonia for 15-20 mins; 4) Very carefully knock off all drips from cocktail stick; 5) Even more carefully insert stick into hole and twist around. What you are trying to avoid here is getting any ammonia on the undamaged surface of the coin; 6) Make up a paste of sulphur and vaseline. You only need a tiny quantity; 7) Take another needle and put a tiny amount of the paste in the hole; 8) Leave for a while. The longer it is left, the darker the area treated with the paste will become, so it is possible to some degree match with the colour of the coin; 9) Wash coin again; 10) Bob's your uncle, Fanny's your aunt! Wow. Do you think your method would work on my 1720 halfpenny?

The collar is actually in 3 pieces with joins as follows; DECUS/ET TUTAMEN*/ANNO REGNI/L... The joins on some coins can be more noticeable than others. Thanks for that Derek, was a little worried initially It looks kosher, though very possibly cleaned. The edge collar can be quite variable - my 1893 is distinctly different in character than my 1900. Not a cause for undue worry I think. None of that series is rare, and therefore not subject to the forger's art IMO. By the way, your pictures resized for my screen, like everyone else's do. Did you upload them using a different method than normal?

Not if the green is only on the surface, as much of it is if caught in reasonable time. It takes (I think) a considerable time for verdigris to sink deeper into the metal, if the coin is not buried. All the coins I've treated the 'vinegar way' have successfully lost the green. The price you pay is that the coin lightens quite a lot, and where the green was, darker patches are left. For some, this might be too high a price to pay, but I found that a high grade 1853 farthing, 1922 & 1936 pennies, all came up quite nice with the green all gone.

That would be impossible - the nearest you could get to it is a brockage (where a penny has stuck to the obverse die) and that would show as a 1963 proper reverse, plus an incuse reverse on the other side. To get two 'proper' "heads" or "tails" together would involve machining two pennies together.

interesting, i may try that for myself on 1 or 2 cheapie coins. i do like the lovely blue tone some of my victorian silver has, but i hate the extreme rainbow toning that the americans seem to like. Artificially assisted very often. E.g. petrol.

Depends what you're doing. Left outside in a rain gutter, maybe only weeks or a couple of months. Otherwise it depends on where you live, how you store them, what kind of tone you want, etc etc. I'm using the flat top shelf of a mahogany cabinet, where there are no punched holes, to try some pieces. It seems to take forever.