Peckris

You'd need to be a cockney to understand that one. Got you Threepenny bits, gits, right?

Without seeing any pictures then its impossible to tell Quite so. Condition is EVERYTHING. As a rough guide : the 1918KN in 'average' condition (you can see all the legend on both sides, but ONE PENNY is getting a bit blurry, you can't see the entire flag detail on Britannia's shield, the fingers on her trident hand aren't distinct and separate any more) is worth between £2 and £5. In 'Mint' condition, it's worth between £1000 and £2000. Your 1893 is worth from £1 (it's more than a flat disc: you can just about make out the legend and Britannia; Victoria is a little more than a silhouette), up to between £100 and £200 in near Mint condition. So you see - pictures are essential.

A little harsh perhaps! (Your first sentence, that is ) But as a generalisation, it's got a lot of truth in it. I do quite like the last reverse for Geo VI sixpences (especially in BU), the ship halfpenny reverse, the Eliz II shilling reverses, and the original decimal designs for 10 pence and 50 pence, as well as quite a few of the £1 and £2 reverses. But that's about it really. The nadir being the commemorative 50 pences and £5 coins, which must rival the Geo VI florin for general awfulness.

Define "recognised"! 1887 and I have exchanged views, pictures, and expertise (his more than mine), and the upshot is that it should appear in an upcoming book he hopes to write on the subject. We both agree that it is a previously unknown variety. However,getting other people interested is a MAJOR task. When you consider some members of this forum have orgasms over a nearly-disappeared half colon, you would think there would be more enthusiasm really. It only goes to prove the old adage "MY variety is interesting and endlessly fascinating. Yours? Pah."

I can see where you're coming from - it's true that I have a type of nearly every machine age currency denomination (silver and copper/bronze), and that means I have only two George VI florins, one silver, one cupro-nickel, as I think it's a pretty awful design. On the other hand I love bronze pennies and have the main dates in EF or better going back to 1887 and most of the "usual suspect" varieties in at least GF; so that's a definite date run. But I'm beginning to love early milled more, which makes things more expensive unless I keep my sights slightly lower. It also means going for the commoner types, which is of course one big advantage of type collecting. I don't have to yearn after 1860 copper for example. But your last sentence does sum it up really.

I just got in. 22:18

One really good thing about the Lumix is its Optical Image Stabilisation - very good.

Too true! I was just thinking today, that a type collection of William III would involve MORE coins than a date run, unless the date run included all the main types and varieties

For what its worth, my 1997 and 2004 editions of Seaby/Spink don't show anything special about the 1890M sovereign, so it must be identified in later editions. Or it's an error. Here is what the 2005 edition lists : 3867A (standard issue) 1887M normal 1889M extremely rare 3867B (DG closer to crown) 1887M 1888M 1889M 1890M all normal So if the 1890M was suddenly discovered to be rare, what about the 1889M ?

Ditto, that's how I feel too. I wish there was an infallible way that slabbing companies could provide a grading and authentication service (involving photographs which could be slabbed instead of the coin) that leaves the coin free. Anyone mistreating or substituting the coin for another when they tried to resell would run up against buyers who would say "Hey, it's not what's on the photo - have it back and give me my money back please".

An elementary question if I may? What is the difference between a Type Collector as opposed to a Date Collector? Or am I being silly and the clue in the name? ie. A type Collector collects only one of each type of denomination per Monarch/Reign regardless of date? No, that's a bit misleading. A type collector - as the name suggests - wants to have at least one of each type, and in the best condition possible. But there's no fixed rule or even convention on this. For example, a type collector may go after a BU 1902 halfcrown because it's by far the cheapest way of getting that 'type'. But that same collector may well decide he also wants reasonable examples of 1903, 04, 05 halfcrowns because they are the rarities. But also decides that there is little point in having 1906-10. Do you see? Then there are the varieties. Some type collectors may decide just to have two George VI pennies - one with IND IMP and the other without. Another may decide he wants the same, plus a mint darkened example (1944-46). Yet another may decide he wants both types of 1940 reverse, plus the 1946 mint flaw. And any of those might decide to have one or both of 1950, 51 as the major scarce dates. Each type collector will have their own ideas of what constitutes "their" collection, and there's no right or wrong to it. All you can say with certainty is that a type collector won't grieve over missing dates.

I was shown both types at the local coin society meeting tonight. Ugly looking things, ain't they? Shallowest reverse design since the late beloved Churchill crowns.

I am deeply deeply suspicious of insurance, regarding it as a kind of sophisticated swindle. After paying premiums over the course of many years, and without claiming, consider how much money you have spent on ... what? Peace of mind? Really, by spending lots of money? Therefore, rightly or wrongly, I cover mine under the standard contents policy, as I have few other valuables. There are other forms of "insurance" too, more practical and a damn sight cheaper : 1. Window locks on all windows, mortice locks on all outside doors 2. Discretion! Don't tell people (except here) that you collect coins. Don't give out your name and address to anyone connected with coins, unless absolutely necessary (e.g. buying on eBay, and even there, you don't need to use your real name). 3. Lockable cabinets inside locked cupboards and - as Peter has said - a variety of scattered locations. Don't keep all your eggs in one basket. 4. If you do have very valuable coins (I'd say, worth over £500; your own limit may differ) then keep those perhaps in the bank. Of all these, being absolutely discreet is the single, cheapest, most important thing. (Don't advertise!) That's my view anyway. Of course, if I get burgled then I may sing a different tune altogether.

Have a BU birthday (Bottle Upended!) RLC

If you bid 25 Euros it did not get through as I bid €22 and the next bid was €253!!!! Mein Gott! For three distinctly sub-average buns? Read again... RARE VARIETY Really? The enlargements aren't exactly pin sharp, and the coins aren't in decent condition. What am I looking at?

Then either the 2005 and earlier editions are wrong, or the recent one is. Or there's a possibility that both are : CCGB doesn't list a rare Melbourne JH sov at all.

Yeah, there's just something about the bronze penny series that in a sense, marks them out as distinct from all others. They really hit the spot, don't they. Yes, there's a whole raft of possible reasons : the hours spent looking through bank bags as a schoolkid, the low face value, the generous size, the sheer number of varieties, the minting history ('ghosting', 'mint toning', missing years, weird metal mixes), the H and KN factor, the 1933 factor, the endless combinations in the first few bun years ... it goes on and on. You can never reach the end! It's an entire branch of numismatics all by itself

If you bid 25 Euros it did not get through as I bid €22 and the next bid was €253!!!! Mein Gott! For three distinctly sub-average buns?

Most 1934s were still in GF-VF condition in 1971 whereas 12Hs were generally pretty grim by that stage, although unlike 18 and 19 H/KN (especially KNs) were still fairly common in circulation. On the other hand, 12H's lasted pretty well compared to other first series GV, protected by that enormous high wall aka 'rim'! I found quite a few GF examples, even the occasional NVF, but the 19Hs were uniformly horrible.

Thanks for that. I do have a tripod but I just don't think I can physically manage looking down on the coin (bending over the whole arrangement). The drawback with the Lumix is that the viewscreen isn't articulated which would make my task a lot easier.

Whatever it is, it isn't a regular issue coin. The bust is all wrong, the legend is the wrong size, the 1/6 isn't right, and the legend below the bust shouldn't be there. So unless it's some kind of a pattern, it's possibly a gaming token, yes.

You sure you're checking the right thing az? The 2005 Spink doesn't even list an 1890M for 3867A, and the Extremely Rare is given for the 1889M

When I decided to become a type rather than a date collector I breathed a huge sigh of relief. Until I realised the particular ball and chain that comes with that. You see, a type collector must have each 'type' in as high a grade as possible. James II or George I silver, anyone? I think the problem for me started when I was a child and collected Brooke Bond tea cards. The difficulty was that once you had the album you had to have the set. What was the use of a nearly complete album? And so it is with me for coins - I have to have the date run!! I think the moment of illumination for me was when I finally completed my date run of 20th Century halfcrowns. I sat there staring at absolutely identically unattractive George VI UNC silver halfcrowns and Elizabeth II 1950s halfcrowns, and I thought "So what?" I have kept the pre-1937 halfcrowns, though I'm tempted to farm out a few of the George V, but since then, the only date run I've been remotely interested in is bronze pennies.

When I decided to become a type rather than a date collector I breathed a huge sigh of relief. Until I realised the particular ball and chain that comes with that. You see, a type collector must have each 'type' in as high a grade as possible. James II or George I silver, anyone?

That's really useful advice Steve. I own a Lumix FZ38 'bridge' camera that allows macro shooting and will also take RAW+JPEG shots. I'm also familiar with Photoshop. My main problem is not how to light (I think I would choose natural daylight over artificial) but how to support coins so they are absolutely at a 90º angle, i.e. a flat plane to the lens. I could place the coins on a table top and mount the camera looking down, but that's kind of counter-intuitive to me. I'd want to have the camera flat to the table and stand the coin up, so the final assembly can be moved naturally to get the best light. Any suggestions?