guyincog

It is not in prime condition, that's for sure and has some edge damage. But on a strict grading basis it has to be better than NVF - obverse wear in the usual places is minimal from what I can see. You may be right about the cleaning, although a lot of these early bronze coins did produce a very light tone, so without seeing etc... In conclusion it is not a valuable coin and not one you could sell simply by stating its grade. If I were to sell, I would simply post a picture and let the buyer make up their own mind. I would say Good VF for the F17. Need a better photo though. I agree it looks cleaned. But again, could just be the photo. Worth pointing out that the F17 is high rarity (Jerrams 50-80 known) and so certainly not worthless, cleaned or not. I would pay £60 for it. On Ebay I imagine it would fetch more.

£155 for a VG-F 1871 penny... (not really the seller's fault, for once.)

This site will do the shillings. Wikipedia (NOT a reliable source) has this to say about marks: In England the "mark" never appeared as a coin, but as a money of account only, and apparently came into use in the 10th century through the Danes. It first equalled 100 pence, but after the Norman Conquest equalled 160 pence = 2/3 of the Pound Sterling, or 13 shillings and 4 pence. In Scotland, the Merk Scots comprised a silver coin of this value, issued first in 1570 and afterwards in 1663.

I probably would have been interested... but how would you have avoided copyright issues?

It's a bronze medallion issued for the British Empire Exhibition (1924). Value... a few pounds though this one looks cleaned (maybe just the photo).

1882 penny "none" H? 5 watchers already. I have a feeling somebody is going to throw away a lot of money here...

Yes, it's a Freeman 96. Often referred to as the 'raised lines' variety but I actually find it easier to identify by the thinner lettering on the obverse: vs Obverse 9 lettering being slightly thicker and much more deeply cut. This is a fairly obvious difference on all but the lowest grade coins.

This is just one of the differences between the various 1861 reverses. No orb would be Spink reverse G.

Not an expert, but vicky pennies are my main interest. Almost certainly Gouby obverse C (thin rim, i.e. the relatively common one). Need better pics to identify reverse. Grade F+ Value... about £20 but depends on reverse die.

I thought token at first... it's fairly crude. But the inscription is correct, and it's not brass like the "good old days" tokens - it appears to be lead with some kind of plating. Diameter is 25-26mm. Weight 4.1g. Any ideas? If it's a token, why use the correct inscription and date? (and risk prison or execution). But if it's a forgery, why not make it the correct weight?

Yes, I know, cleaning is bad but... Recently acquired this coin: Nice, but with some dried green gunk on the obverse. Could be from a PVC holder but actually looks more like somebody has sellotaped the coin to something. I've heard that soaking in either acetone or pure alcohol will remove it, but I'm reluctant to try in case I destroy the coin completely. Does anyone have any experience with this?

Snap

Approx 6 known according to Gouby (good pictures there, too). Which would be R18 (?). OP probably doesn't have one of those, anyway.

Tooth means the beads around the border. Look at the date - the '1' will either be directly above a bead, or slightly to one side. The latter is very common.

Not seen this mentioned anywhere. Small date 1879 penny with missing colon dot in D:G:

Looked into this a bit more. Michael Gouby lists this as a minor variety (broken O) and prices it slightly higher (few £) than the usual one. So a bit more valuable but not much.

The one I have has a bit missing from the O as well as several other die flaws. Not a U as such but more like a horseshoe. Most of the examples currently on Ebay seem to have the same flaws. So probably not very rare. Spink values for this coin are way off. CC2006 has the correct figures (£4 in EF).

I have some shiny 1967 pennies earmarked for testing purposes. I'm going to try 99.9% Isopropyl Alchohol first. Acetone seems like unpleasant stuff.

It's a brass guinea weight. 21 = 21 Shillings Most likely 18th century.

If it's better than the one I showed then it might be worth... something, to someone. To photograph coins you really need a tripod (or very, very steady hands) and a camera with a macro function. The other, easier alternative is to use a scanner.

You can block people with negative feedback from bidding (my account->preferences->buyer requirements). Worth doing IMO. They are rarely worth the trouble. Not foolproof of course - they can just register a new account and be back at 0 - but it does make things a bit harder for them.

These coins turn up quite often in junk boxes I find. Often in the higher grades, despite relatively low mintages (100,000-200,000 per year iirc) I think the reason is that few people actually collect them. When you look at them it's not hard to see why: Possibly the world's most boring coin. And that design stayed the same for a hundred years. You could put it on Ebay with a 50p start and someone might buy it. Hardly worth the effort though.

Scarce 1967 penny. Mintage of only 654 million. Or perhaps this. Have a LOOL.

Is it the opinion of people here that the 1918 KN was UNC, then? I am not saying it wasn't. I am genuinely interested. To me it looks like it has wear. I would - and did - grade that coin as Good EF.

I like it. Far more readable than Spink and a quarter of the price. My only real gripe is the cover: it seems to curl up very easily when read and I have to keep it flat under other books. But that's only a minor complaint. Still the best value guide around.