bob.phillips

I am trying to understand why it appears to be so much more difficult to find an 1845 crown with 'star stops' than an 1845 crown with 'cinq stops'. I assume, obviously, that this is because the 'star stops' type is much rarer, but in the various coin books that I have the values of each type is exactly the same. Any views on this would be appreciated.

Thanks for your views.

Thanks for your prompt response Rob. So if the general consensus is that they probably don't exist then why are they listed in the various books. If it's because they just 'might' exist then surely they would have a higher value. Interesting that you bought one and returned it, 'not as described', was this because it didn't have star stops or was it a fake?

Just decided to boost my collection of Victorian Silver 3d and my simple question is :- How to tell a normally circulated silver 3d from a silver 3d from a Maundy set. Is there a way of confirming a coin is either one or the other? I understand that Maundy 3d's were originally 'prooflike', but once in circulation then this will presumably be less noticeable. Thanks for any help, Bob P

Hi Rob, Thanks for the info. I thought that might be the case. So I'll just add to my collection and ignore the problem. Thanks again, Bob P

I recently purchased a 1839 farthing and noticed that it has a full stop after DEF rather than a colon. This is not listed in 'Collectors Coins GB' 2011, though I see that such a variety is listed for the 1838 farthing. Is this a known variety for 1839 farthing and does it have a higher value? On the same theme of varieties, I also have a 1818 L1X crown where the A of TUTAMEN is missing the central horizontal bar and is like an upside down V. Is this a known variety? Any views would be appreciated. Bob Phillips

Hi Colin, Thanks for the most helpful response. Your farthing site is great. Good to see that these types of coin varieties are of interest to others. From the pictures on your site, I believe that my coin is Obv 2, Rev 2. Thanks again, Bob

Rob, Thanks for the prompt response and I can see your point of view. If there is not a 'bump' where there should be a 'bump', it could be due to die fill. But clearly some of these types are considered significant enough to merit separate listings in coin books. The 1819 LX Crown without a stop after TUTAMEN is but one example. You did say in your response that these could be seen as significant if one could show that the error was on an original die. Is there any way of finding this out? ( Maybe thats a stupid question !!! ). I would like to hear more views on these varieties if anyone has any

I like to collect silver coins and one such area is the crowns of the early victoria reign. I have 1844 with star stops and 1845 with cinq stops. I find it extremely difficult to get 1844 cinq stops and 1845 star stops despite both star and cinq being similar values in the various coin value books. The ones I am seeking seem to be much rarer and much more expensive. Is this the case or am I just not looking hard enough?? Bob P.

John, Thanks for the info. I was very surprised when you said the 1845* doesn't exist. As you say, it is sometimes advertised and it does appear in all the coin value books that I have. Thanks again, Bob P.

I would like to know something about the mistruck edge lettering on the 1844 crown listed in SPINKS, but giving no details of this error ( or at least not in my 2006 copy ). I have recently purchased a 1844 star stops crown, mainly because it is better condition than my current one, but it was also listed as mistruck edge lettering. This new coin has the normal REGNI replaced by REGNT ( and also the N is very faint ). Is this the sort of error referred to by SPINKS?? Regards, Bob P.

I have an 1823 halfcrown ( in VF condition ). On the obverse side, there is a colon after the D of D G but only a full stop after the G. i.e it appears as D:G. Is this normal for this coin, is it a known variety or is it ( as yet ) unknown?? Any info would be much appreciated. Regards, Bob P.

Thanks for response Peckris and I now see the faint dot. When you say a 'filled die', what does that mean? Is it unusual? Regards, Bob P.

Duh Bob? They never used full-stops on the coins back then. Thanks for the comment and I can only assume you are right and they did not use full stops. I am just a beginner in this but 'after the G' there is not a colon, as you can see from the picture. There is 1 dot. Maybe it's a forgery??? - or maybe it's a miss - strike. I'm just seeking help from the experts!!! Regards, Bob P.

The apparent misplaced top dot is not on the coin at all. It must have been a speck of dust or something on the camera lens. Regards, Bob P.

Attached photo. Not the best quality, but I still think it's a full stop after the G.

As an amateur coin collector, the subject of grading coins is an interesting one. I don't pretend to be any sort of expert on the subject, but it seems to me that even so called ' coin dealers' sometimes don't have a clue on the grades of coins. This is particularly evident on E-bay, where frequently, coins described as EF are sometimes no better than F. Can anyone tell me how to get more information on grading coins? Are there any courses run on the subject and indeed can one get any sort of qualification in the subject? I live in Milton Keynes ( well, someone has to) so please don't suggest any options that are too far away. Thanks for any info given. Regards, Bob Phillips - member

Thanks to you all for the responses. I have now got a copy of Spinks, which is helpful. Maybe someone should help to clarify things for us beginers. Thanks again Bob Phillips First of all the grading services seem to grade according to market whims. They do slab dipped coins which then become "frosty white". Also artificially toned coins get higher grades because they have "better colour" and this is the latest fashion statement in US numismatics - or so it seems. I'll go along with the idea of people not recognising the perfect coin. e.g.The number of slabbed MS63 James II shillings is considerable and covers grades from gVF upwards. I have only ever seen ONE mint state example with full laurel detail, a fully struck up reverse, full lustre and no weakness anywhere. Sadly it wasn't mine and it wasn't for sale. Looking through auction catalogues is probably the easiest way to learn what a mint state example looks like. Dealers' lists are not, they are trying to sell for maximum profit. eBay has two grades. UNC covers VF-UNC (usually) and high grade or extremely fine the lower grades, so can be dismissed.

Can anyone let me know how to tell the difference between a maundy 3d and a silver 3d issued for normal circulation??

Thanks for your inputs. I was rather hoping for a simple answer, but clearly one has to be something of an expert to tell the difference. It's my first 'question' on the site so far, but as I'm still somewhat of a beginner, I'm sure there will be more. It's a great forum Thanks again for your inputs. Bob Phillips