azda

Also, Why overstamp the v in the 1st Place, the 1 underneaths Position Looks perfectly ok? Just questions, i Know how u hatte Variants Rob lol Could it Be that its actually an A? In faxt the more i Look at it, the V in Top Looks more out of Position than the 1 underneath

Its strange them Why spink would list variants around 1851 but Not 1851 itself. There's a varianz for roman 1 and also a over v, so of marsh has nö Time them Why List These? Excuse the spelling, am in the sbahn using a New phone

Quoted in Marsh Rob or not, 1851

and the 200x

I use Nero photoshop, when i take my pictures i always have the camera setting on the highest setting, my pictures are then generally about 1 meg each, i then crop around the coin which takes it down to the 700kb mark, then i resize it down to the 150kb mark, but always save the high res pictures for myself. Through nero photshopi can also enlarge pix, the picture here on the Half Sov was only around 40kb, so i cropped the dealers picture then blew up the OBV picture so you could see what i was looking at. So any thoughts on the Half Sov, i'm not convinced its a repunched V as the line under it looks to straight to me. Thanks for your response to my PS question It doesn't look like an underlying V to me. Difficult to see what it is though. Possibly an I ? Yes thats what i thought to Peckris, the line to me looks far to straight, all will be revealed in a weeks time hopefully. Glad i bought this USB microscope now, it will definately come in handy

Is this listed, not to sure, any takers? The V in VICTORIA. I've put it here for the time being as i'm unsure if it's a confirmed variety or not.

I use Nero photoshop, when i take my pictures i always have the camera setting on the highest setting, my pictures are then generally about 1 meg each, i then crop around the coin which takes it down to the 700kb mark, then i resize it down to the 150kb mark, but always save the high res pictures for myself. Through nero photshopi can also enlarge pix, the picture here on the Half Sov was only around 40kb, so i cropped the dealers picture then blew up the OBV picture so you could see what i was looking at. So any thoughts on the Half Sov, i'm not convinced its a repunched V as the line under it looks to straight to me.

Its not in hand yet Bob, but has been aquired

Not so sure RLC, the line looks to straight to be a V in my opinion

Here is the whole coin

Here was an answer i got about this ebay coin 160480085396 it states RED GEM which to me means BUNC. Look at the fingers of Britannia, hence the reason i asked if this was in fact RED GEM The Reply Thank you for the question. I consulted PCGS about the wear points of this coin before I listed it. According to PCGS an AU coin must show, quote "the slightest traces of wear visible on the (highest points) of the coin". I believe one of the highest points of this coin is the breast area? It is my understanding that a coin must show wear on more than one point, and this is why a Morgan Silver Dollar can show "incomplete" hair depth over the ear area on the obverse and grade an MS-64 if the cheek area shows no wear. Either way, I'm no expert myself and this is why I have included the grading guide. It is my wish that folks come to their own conclusion about the grade. I hope this answer helps A bit of a way out from our standards don't you think, hence the reason i asked how long London Coins have been grading for compared to the US grading companies

As far as I can see, there are no bids on the 'Dot' yet ? Well, at least you had the experience of selling and have learned what an imprecise business coin trading is. Generally speaking, over the short and medium terms, we collectors are going to lose money. Fact. Just one thing (or two) The LCA dot penny was judged to be EF with some lustre by certain collectors that viewed the coin. There is a massive difference in grade between EF and Lustrous UNC in my opinion. The last UNC dot penny was sold for £1600 according to information that I was given. After reading comments on this site, James thought it right to lower the reserve price for his dot penny to £1500 before the auction started. In the event of coins not selling, I have agreed to buy the remaining coins that have been returned to him. Perhaps try another sale next year Bernie if some don't sell, as Rob said in an earlier post, there seems to be a lot of similar auctions coming up and unfortunately not everyone can afford everything. Oh and my my, your bank account might be taking a hammering lol, but it is for a good cause, getting rid of the son for 1 lol (just joking if you're reading this James)

As far as I can see, there are no bids on the 'Dot' yet ? Well, at least you had the experience of selling and have learned what an imprecise business coin trading is. Generally speaking, over the short and medium terms, we collectors are going to lose money. Fact.

I totally agrre with you Bernie that coins OFTEN appear different in some respects than the one you actually buy, take for example the 1861 i posted in this thread, i posted the sellers picture then the one when i received it, the OBV seems very different to me, although i'm still happy with it.

The problem being 400 is that dealers, when they describe a coin generally talk it up in order to gain more cash, i agree that if we disagree with their garde and specifics then we need not bid or buy, but when you talk a grade more and with lustre then its going to obviously cost more. Problem being, it's like negative equity in a house, it might take years for the said coin to come up to the value he spoke of in the 1st place, then during that time, it may also lose more lustre unfortunately. Perhaps dealers should just state what the coin is then let buyers decide for themselves what grade and lustre is, but at the end of the day, you are still going to pay over the top prices for something that you believe it is because a dealer says so (or at least new collectors might), we can't say to said dealer, or any dealer for that matter that i disagree with your grade + lustre so i'll give you ex amount, he's just going to laugh at you, then when you eventually pay the dealers price, you are then left with the negative equity in a coin. As i said in a previous post, London coins sold an 1897 with dot for 350 i think it was, very similar grade to James's coin, yet CCC want a 2k starting price, why? I sold a coin a while back on ebay, a dealer asked me how much i'd take for it, i said, as much as possible, we were talking about a Spink value of 2k. He then starts quoting Spink to me and proceeds to tell me that this is what you should pay from a dealer, so i said to him, just because i'm not a dealer doesn't mean i should'nt expect the same price, why do dealers think that they should be able to buy a coin at 50% or less then be able to sell it on for near full book price, it amazes me. The dealer said to me that he put it what he considered to be a fair bid on a 2k coin, needless to say he was outbid at 125 pounds, what an arse. Rant over

So can anyone explain the difference to me in auction number 6 and 13 of the Workman sale. 6 says FULL LUSTRE OBV slightly toning and 13 says ALMOST FULL LUSTRE, but to me both have toned to the same degree, so if they are toned, how can they have FULL LUSTRE? How can 1 be different to the other? Look at the pix on the site if you don't have the sale catalogue

So can i make up a chart to extract as much geld as i can from my collection? Every US COIN is helped along the way

And the REV, personally i think the REV is better than the OBV, although i think the sellers pictures were nicer than mine, maybe photoshopped

Ok, so the 1861 i got on ebay, it is now in hand, it feels like it has like a waxy feel to it for some reason, not felt that on a coin before, but here are 2 hi res pix

Have you got a few of yours in Oil 400, most of mine are in olive oil, will change it once a month for some fresh and see how it goes after a year gonna be a long year me thinks. BLAH

So what class would we consider this to be, lustre, sheen blah blah blah?

What do you make of the 1 and 8 in this date, is the 1 weakly struck or is something up with the 8, not quite sure. I've had to enlarge the picture, so my apologies for quality

Ok, so as i was saying, how can you have a GEF/ABU grade, where is the UNC in between, if it's a GEF then it can't possibly be ABU, surely it should be AUNC next? This grading business is utter confusing

I think it's not dissimilar to that mis-strike you had a month or so ago, they've run out of room at the bottom. If you can get it for a reasonable price, might as well pick it up I reckon. Not so sure they ran out of room at the bottom 400 as there is plenty of space above, so perhaps a mis-aligned 1? The 1 also looks thinner than the rest of the numerals

On the subject of the CCC grading, i have their monthly catalogue and it's true that their grading is quite hazy, here's one quote they have on a coin GEF/ABU, now when did we suddenly bypass the UNC grade and go straight to ABU after GEF? Just on the same subject, i've been reading this thread intently, due to the fact that James Workman (in my eyes) has a very nice collection, one that a few of us would give our right testicle for, but i feel that we've suddenly lost the plot and have started bashing the guys collection, bear in mind Bernie is also on the forum and is maybe feeling slightly peed off at the nit picking that's going on with the collection. The grading is'nt his, it's CCC, i understand that it's CCC that we are talking about but we are also tearing into the mans collection. Personally i think it's damn nice and have had a quick look at the total so far on CCC and its roughly 25k with the bids so far, and some have'nt been bidden on yet, so well done to James and good luck with finding a good home with the deposit. Ok, am off my soapbox now.