RLC35

Probably the first thing you need to do is change the images from BMP to jpeg. BMP images are quite large, and probably will be too big for the Forum site. I think there is a limit of 150k (total) for images, so you may have to send them (jpeg images) in 2 or 3 responses.

Dave, Gary Schindler is "Bronze & Copper Collector" on this Forum.

David, You might want to send Michael Gouby a pic of the 1880, 8 over 8 that you found. I think he is tracking the new found items that are showcased in his new book (like your 1880, 8 over 8).

The all red warning screen is an alert from the McAfee security system in my system!

Peter, I'll bet your insurance rate is really cheap also! I'm with you!

Chris, It must be fixed. The red Warning screen doesn't come on any more. BTW...I am on Google Chrome.

Chris, My security program (McAfee) says the Forum is infected with Malware! BC

Here is an old time Blues version of "My Bonnie" by Ray Charles. This was early in his career. <object width="480" height="385"><param name="movie" value=" &hl=en_US&fs=1"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src=" &hl=en_US&fs=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="480" height="385"></embed></object>

You are right Huss...those are great pic's! I have a Canon Powershot SD1000 Digital Elph, and it takes good pic's of coins, and also coins in "Clear" slabs. It doesn't take good pic's of slabs with a "white" background though. There is always a reflection of the camera back in the picture. Have you tried yours with a white background slab? I would be interested to know if you have the same issue.

Here's mine. It's hard to take a pic thru a slab. There are hairlines on the slab, but the actual coin has extremely smooth fields. It is in a NGC slab (USA).

Peck, You are right, there are a lot of different understandings, but not a lot of firm documentation. Prior to Derek's book being published, most of the English grading that I was familiar with, was only "written" grading comparison's, and not "visual" comparisons. Derek's book gives good visuals of English grading, plus a cross reference to US grading. For me that is very helpful. In my experience, the biggest grading errors, with English coins are made on my side of the Pond, since most "run of the mill" Dealers here don't have a clue how English coins are graded, thus they grade by the seat of their pants. I tried to negotiate a coin listed with a well known American Dealer, because the fingers on the trident were wearing flat, and he had the coin graded as extra fine. His reply was...well I bought it for extra fine, so I have to sell it for that! Needless to say, we didn't get together on the coin, though I really wanted to buy it. With the normal discussions within each of our Countries on our own grading, you know there is going to be a lot of mis-understandings and conversation when two countries start comparing a 100 point English system to a 70 point American system.LOL! Have a great weekend!

American collector's grading is "as a general rule" one grade higher on the scale than English grading (above Good). There is a lot of latitude though, since everyone see's things from a different set of eyes. I use the following as a rough comparison of American to English grades. English = Poor To be equal, the American coin would have to be = Fair English = Fair To be equal, the American coin would have to be = About Good English = Good To be equal, the American coin would have to be = Good...These two grades are about the same for both systems! English = Very Good To be equal, the American coin would have to be = Fine English = Very Fine To be equal, the American coin would have to be = Extra Fine English = Extra Fine To be equal, the American coin would have to be = AU The varying degrees of grading between the above grades are also open to interpretation, though not shown. Derek's book "Guide to Grading British Coins" goes into the comparison's much better, and is a much better one to use!

Here is the large bead mule. Note that in both coins the reverse beads are closer to the inner ring, than they are to the rim of the coin. This is one of the easy ways to ID the Mule. Toothed coins are not that way!...sorry again Colin, I promise not to go any further! LOL!

Here is the small bead 1860 Mule. I will send the large bead next!

Azda There are two know types of the toothed border/beaded border "Mule" farthings. One has large beads, and one has smaller beads. Colin is right...the one you have is toothed/toothed. The definate way to tell if it is a beaded reverse, is to count the beads. The toothed border has more beads! Sorry Colin, I had to do it! LOL! I'll try to find my two examples (large beads and small beads), and post them later.

The mint mark is on the Reverse side of the Half Dollar, just above the Liberty Bell (in the middle of the coin). It is either a "D" or a "S".....

Hi Robert, The two coins you show are very common U.S. Silver (90%) coins. The 1946-P Quarter would grade VG-F, and has a mintage of 53,436,000. Its value, is only one of a bullion coin. With Silver at $13.00 per oz, it has a value of $3.26. The 1953 Half Dollar has a mintmark, but I can't make it out in the pics. The 1953-D Half has a mintage of 20,900,400. The 1953-S has a mintage of 4,148,000. I would grade the coin somewhere around F+. Both of these Halves have a bullion value of $6.51, with Silver at $18.00/oz.

You might measure the thickness of the flan. If it is a thick flan, it might cause extra pressure on the dies, and thus produce a better (slightly higher) relief on the images.

PA That looks like a pretty nice coin, and if it is an overdate, you should be able to see the diagonal of the 2 showing thru the 3. It might take a close up pic of the 3 to verify it though. I can't tell from the degree of magnification shown.

I think Michael Gouby's main interest is the "Brick & Morter" of his coin establishment. He does have the ability to reserve, and sell coins to collector's oversea's, but that is not his main thrust. At least that is what I get from corresponding with him, and buying from him. He has the ability to accept PayPal, etc. also. He seems to have a great reputation everywhere! I have his new "Bronze" Book, and believe me, it is a Classic!

The Obverse is better than the Reverse, in my opinion. The Reverse wear is obvious on the Hair, Breast, Leg, and shield. On the Obverse the most noticeable wear is where the hair meets the Brow, right above the eye. The OBV = AEF, the REV = GVF... I know it is kinda splitting hairs! I think this coin will bring close to 2000 pounds. The 1849's are really hard to find in this grade. If Baldwin's had it, they would probably ask 3500! LOL!

My biggest bargain by far, was a 1861, 6 over 8 Victorian Penny, in GF. I paid $35.00 for it not knowing what is was, and had it identified here on the Forum by Custard66, and others. I recently sold it on eBay for $2,100. The sale even made "View from the Bay" in Coin News! Probably a once in a lifetime find!

Red, You are right, the first thing is to get an iPhone...go ahead...jump in, and buy one. You will love it. Most of the Apps are free, or just .99, so you can load up on Apps! I have the 3G-S,(which is a G3.5), but they have just released the G4, which is a Blazer! One of the .99 cent Apps is "Coins" which identifies many coins from Roman on down to the present, but it is not selective, so you need to go thru many coins to get to the one you want. It is nice to have, but not as helpful as the App PK is requesting. BTW...iTunes gives you a $50.00 free iPhone card credit when you buy a new iPhone, and that buys a lot of .99 Apps!

PK, When you find that App, let me know... I want it for my iPhone also!

Hi Peter The "Redbook" (from USA) lists the 1974-S Small Cent @ .35 in MS65 grade. MS65 is a Mint State (uncirculated) coin with clear fields, and few, if any, bag marks. The 1974-S mintage is quite high at 409,426,660 coins minted!