Accumulator

Any plastic envelope sold specifically for coins should not contain any PVC, nor should they have done for the past 30 years or more. As for lustre, provided the sleeves are stored in a dry, pollution-free environment, coins should preserve their lustre indefinitely. However, coins should be checked at least annually to make sure the plastic isn't "sweating"; keep a supply of new sleeves at hand to replace any that are suspect. I know the question was specifically about plastic envelopes but, unless you wish to look at the coins regularly, wouldn't it be better to use acid-free paper envelopes instead? Coins are a hobby - you'd want to look at them reasonably often, or what's the point? At least with plastic envelopes you don't need to remove the coin at all, unless replacing the envelope. With paper envelopes, you could be constantly sliding the coin in and out which would cause friction and the risks associated with handling. Cabinets with felt linings are good, but there is still handling involved to see both sides. The one advantage of slabs and plastic envelopes is you can see both sides of the coin without having to handle it. i was simply distinguishing between those coins one keeps, for whatever reason, but rarely looks at and those in one's main collection. I have various spares etc. which I may get around to selling one day. In the meantime I just feel safer with acid-free paper (probably a hangover from having to use acetate on coins I put into pvc envelopes in the 60s and only took out in recent years). I'm gradually moving my collection to the Quadram capsules which sit in trays and can be removed for viewing.

Snap!

Not sure of the answer, but I've noted a couple of users whose avatar is different when I view the forum on my pc to when I view it on the iPhone. I've always assumed that one version of the forum shows the 'avatar' and the other shows the 'photo'? It might be worth checking both the avatar and photo in your profile.

Any plastic envelope sold specifically for coins should not contain any PVC, nor should they have done for the past 30 years or more. As for lustre, provided the sleeves are stored in a dry, pollution-free environment, coins should preserve their lustre indefinitely. However, coins should be checked at least annually to make sure the plastic isn't "sweating"; keep a supply of new sleeves at hand to replace any that are suspect. I know the question was specifically about plastic envelopes but, unless you wish to look at the coins regularly, wouldn't it be better to use acid-free paper envelopes instead?

Anyone after a 'HIGH GRADE' 1877 penny?

Sorry if it came across as harshness but, as in all forums, there are pet topics which the regulars have discussed many times before and newcomers can inadvertently stumble into. Here, one of these is the US love of extreme toned coins (the so called rainbow toning). No-one meant to criticise your coin (excepting what appears to be an unsightly mark on the cheek) but it did start us off on the perennial discussion of toning. Also, we all have budgets and some young members have budgets well below the price of your coin. We're a friendly bunch really.

Not another one from that pesky Heston mint!

leaving aside the wonderful quality of this coin, which is obviously 'money well spent', 'will retain value as time passes' and is a 'significant piece of monetary history', the seller has made a trifling mathematical error which might mean he completely misses his well-populated target market. Should I let him know that it's actually an 'ideal 106th birthday pressie'? I'd hate for him to lose out.

Maybe he's selling the coin to fund a spellchecker?

I'm always suspicious of "rainbow" toning - I just can't see how it can be natural? (I.e. with red yellow and blue all present). If yours had just been blue where it's toned, I would have said "great natural toning". As it is, it really doesn't look bad, in fact it looks nice, but.... And is there a huge gouge on the cheek? You can get red, yellow and blue all present at the same time. Neither of these two are AT, guaranteed. I'm generally very suspicious of rainbow toning, but those are beautiful coins Rob. I want the gift from Peck!

My problem to a T, I've been accumulating pickies of rare coins and patterns for some time, it's only now when I consider sharing my researches do I realise I don't know where a lot were copied from Ta! yes I know some I have, have been sourced from here! your 1922 penny for example is one I would like to use please Others I need to redo are things like pennies from Cape of Good Hope, and some of the S.American patterns like this one David That's fine David, use the 1922 by all means. Any other requests, just ask.

Congratulations John! Its seems so long ago now that mine were born.... one of the most special times of your life!

I have to admit being something of a 'completist', which is borne out in my approach to coin collecting. As a boy in the late 60s & early 70s I looked for one of each date of each denomination and stored them away in an album. I remember the elation of finding H's, KN's or bun heads in my change, even if they were in poor condition and even 40 years later worthless. Luckily I had an uncle who collected and gave me a few choice coins when I visited him (1925 and 1930 half crowns amongst many, for example). Many years later I built up a small collection of vintage arcade amusement machines which I used to press into use at my daughter's school fayres. To operate these I bought thousands more pennies and halfpennies at rockbottom prices. In recent years I returned to my coins and particularly the pennies, sorting through tons of them for the elusive Freeman numbers which I wasn't aware of years ago. I've also been upgrading any lesser examples with the aim to complete the run, with varieties, from 1797 with as many UNC specimens as possible. I also have a yearning to go further back in history but haven't quite decided which way to go, though it will almost certainly be silver. If time allows I may make a start on this in the coming year.

For general storage I use the Lindner acid free envelopes. I bought mine ages ago and still have some left, but am sure they are available through this site. For presentation I use the (ahem....) Lighthouse Quadram (50mm x 50mm) square capsules with black inserts to fit the various coin sizes. These fit in standard 50mm trays. Having spent money on lustred coins I'm a bit fanatical about not losing the lustre so I keep lots of silica gel sachets around the coin cabinet.

Mine is still to fill a few more Freeman/Gouby penny gaps, as and when I find the coins available. A couple of the gaps are supposed to be relatively easy but have proved very elusive in anything but poor grade (the two 1913 mules in UNC for example.... anyone tempted to part with one? Money waiting ) Later in the year I might extend my focus to include an entirely different area. I haven't decided which yet, but half crowns or crowns take my fancy. Early pennies are also an option, but I do generally prefer larger coins (apologies to the farthing collectors)! I have a fair few of both denominations already so something to work from.

If you are looking for photos of any specific pennies then I could probably help. I have a large number of the Freeman series in EF or UNC and many others going back to 1797, all photographed.

A Christmas cracker question? Answer: No one. William was king of the UK & GB

The other option is to find someone on here who's attending and can bid on your behalf. I'd certainly be happy to do that for any auctions I attend.

My tip is that it's definitely worth attending in person if at all possible. I've suffered all the problems noted above when bidding as an absentee, namely being very surprised to lose out (room bids taking priority, apparently) and getting anything I do win at my highest proxy bid price. I attended the last London Coins auction and it appeared most lots were won in the room, with the absentee bids being used almost as fodder to start the real bidding (remember they only have about 30 secs for each sale so aren't going to mess around going through dozens of bids to get to the sale price). Telephone bidding is a hassle as they have just two lines and are probably only willing to take calls on the major lots. Without doubt the best option is live on-line bidding, where this is available (London Coins don't have it yet). I tried this for the first time at the DNW December auction and puts you on equal footing with room bidders.

Now Peter's just raised the price to a 100k or more, it looks like I'll have to put up with this tat for a while longer P.s. My name's accumulator and I'm a variety washer collector...

I concur. Unfortunately my powers of forgetfulness are not all they could be. And it looks like its getting a whole lot more expensive. As an example, I noticed today that Spink's top price for an 1827 penny in their 2011 catalogue was £2800 in EF with no price given for UNC. That left the price open to negotiation. In 2012, however, they have suddenly listed it in UNC at £12,500! Any seller will now be looking for that kind of figure!

Probably only about 50 for me, but that does includes a few that cost rather more than I like to remember!

Very true, unless there's an 1903 open 3 (1/500 of 1903s), 1909 2+E (1/800 of 1909s), 1911 Gouby X (1/150 1911s), etc. etc. lurking in there (which is highly unlikely)

I'd be interested to have your views on this penny. It's wafer thin and weighs 6.06g. Maybe a halfpenny planchet?

I'm largely housebound ( ) which gives me lots of time to spend on the net. And when you don't find the time, Peckris, everyone asks where the hell you got to!