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Nick

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Everything posted by Nick

  1. Lovely frosty lustre on that halfcrown. What are the assigned grades on those two?
  2. I don't know what it is about the OH shillings, but they do seem to tone readily.
  3. Nick

    Photographing coins in holders

    Almost. The "godless" is 28mm and the "gothic" is 30mm.
  4. Nick

    Photographing coins in holders

    Remember that florins have changed size through the years, ranging from 28mm to 30mm.
  5. You could always try flushing the cache to make sure your browser has to download a fresh copy.
  6. It's difficult to see how blurred that image is. What does it look like when you click the magnify button?
  7. Nick

    The Negative thread.

    That trademark would never work here in the UK. Look out for the "CAC" sticker!
  8. An improvement I think, you've created more of a perception of depth, but perhaps just lost those hints of lustre. It'll be interesting to see the results with the new lamps.
  9. Nick

    My first batch of coins to CGS

    I wouldn't have thought that there was even the slightest possibility that the 1918 would get a higher grade than the 1919, but there you go.
  10. I have used axial lighting, but it is pretty difficult to get enough light on the coin whilst blocking ambient light and reflections. It worked ok with highly reflective proofs, but normal coins appeared dull and lifeless.
  11. I bought something similar quite a while ago. The lamps are halogen and get seriously hot. IIRC the connections are not the same as GU10.
  12. No need for central heating then if you have 500W light bulbs. A standard house light bulb these days is 60W (or a third of that for energy savers).
  13. Close-up lenses have a tendency to make the phase detector used by the autofocus system go bananas.
  14. Lustre is not easy to capture, as it is effectively the result of light being reflected in slightly different directions from the surface. The camera only "sees" those reflections which fit within its limited field of view. It could be that you need to take your photos in a place that has more ambient light, or you could try moving slightly further away from the coin.
  15. Nice. I do like coins with peripheral toning. For coin photos, I use mode-A (aperture priority) with an F-number around 10 or so with a daylight bulb CFT light source. If your photo doesn't quite tally with what you see in hand, you may need to change the white balance to match your light source type (some DSLRs also have a procedure to match the white balance exactly to the light source).
  16. It doesn't look at all convincing. Best avoided.
  17. We're all just Comfortably Numb.
  18. Weakness in the centre is often seen on this reverse. The top lion in the bottom right shield is usually less distinct than the other two.
  19. Nick

    My Latest Acquisition

    Nice 3d. Those Edwardian threepences aren't easy to find with a well struck obverse.
  20. I would say it is pretty close to EF.
  21. Nick

    My Latest Acquisition

    That's a nice crown, especially the reverse. It looks as if it may have started out as a specimen. Either that or a very early strike.
  22. DNW estimates are generally a bit on the low side, but they do depend on any reserve required by the vendor. I would say that DNW photographs are pretty good and that the coins are usually slightly better in hand than you would expect from the photos.
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