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Nick

Accomplished Collector
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Everything posted by Nick

  1. Nick

    Ebay's Worst Offerings

    That one looks more like nEF. And you know who "stampinvestor" is really, don't you? Roy "1864 florin" ... Indeed. I wish that eBay would provide a better way to exclude certain sellers (and private listings) from search results. I'd rather not see their tat full stop.
  2. Nick

    Ebay's Worst Offerings

    That one looks more like nEF.
  3. Nick

    Ebay's Worst Offerings

    You've replicated the link, so there is only one to comment on. I'd say it looks nicely toned and pretty close to UNC.
  4. I need a loupe to even see the date on G-V farthings! I need a loupe to see any date on any coin.
  5. I have a Nikon D90 with a 105mm macro lens. Using the metadata from Coinery's posted pictures; it looks as if he has a Canon EOS 1100D. Hah, you're good, Nick! And a 100mm macro! I kind of agree with Peck re any macro camera will do, but I wouldn't swap my set-up! Nor I mine, although I have to say that I think that the Canon autofocus system (for static subjects) is a little better than that on the Nikon.
  6. I have a Nikon D90 with a 105mm macro lens. Using the metadata from Coinery's posted pictures; it looks as if he has a Canon EOS 1100D.
  7. Must be. None of the others could possibly be described as charging a low buyer's premium.
  8. I have seen similar spots before. I don't know whether they are verdigris or not, but usually they lift straight off with the tip of a wooden cocktail stick. However, given that your halfcrown is entombed, you don't have that option (if you want to be able to return it, that is). If you do want to keep it, you might crack it out, see if the spots will shift (if they don't easily - leave 'em alone) and then have reslabbed if you so wish.
  9. What obverse do the the circulation coins have? Obverses 1 and 2 were used for currency threepences, along with two reverses A and B. Not sure whether all 4 combinations exist, Gary D will be able to confirm whether 1+B exists or not.
  10. Nick

    Ebay's Worst Offerings

    It's a 'better grade' than a flat disc of metal, but only just.
  11. Also gets rid of a lot of expensive postage costs back and forth, notwithstanding the eradication of import/export issues! There would be no Import costs to PCGS in France. Is anyone actually Reading my posts correctly? PCGS have an office in Paris so there is no Tax duty to pay I often wonder the same thing.
  12. No, neil6mil for £6 delivered! Absolute bargain! Nice one. Don't know how I didn't spot that one - I usually look out for 1911 threepences.
  13. Looks like a currency 3d to me, although it's difficult to tell from the picture. How reflective are the fields? Toning is usually the best indicator, the maundy versions tend to tone to a blue/purple tint. I would say the grade of your's is aUNC (the central jewel on the crown and the outline of the 3 look a little flattened), but I'd be very happy if mine were that good.
  14. I've just come to the end of my first year of 'more serious' collecting (4 years in all) and I actually think I have been quite lucky! But perhaps I am in a minority of 1! The previous pic was taken in very bright sunshine, perhaps exaggerating the mirrored appearance from a previous clean and casting shadows around the lettering etc. This one may be a better likeness: I get all my coins costing over around £50 from dealers Peter, this one is from Bucks Coins I think the 'blue cast' to your photos doesn't help, Paulus - polished coins acquire a kind of blue sheen as well as the mirroring. However, I still think it does look cleaned, but couldn't give a proper assessment without the coin being in hand. But as you say "previous clean" anyway, then no harm done if there was a reduction in price. Paulus, I think that the main issue is the photo. The light appears to be coming from too shallow an angle. In theory, the light source should be as close to perpendicular to the surface of the coin as you can manage (allowing for the camera itself getting in the way). Another issue is the white balance, which is what gives a color cast to the photo (usually blue, yellow or green) dependent upon the type of lighting used. It may be worth experimenting with some of your camera's settings. Here is a photo of the best 1908 halfcrown that I have seen. I don't know if it will help, but ALL of my photos are taken under artificial lighting (my only option presently). I bought a couple of £4 flexi-lamps from Ikea, and put 'daylight' bulbs into them, these you can get cheaply from just about every craft shop out there! I set one above and from the right, and the other I hold free-hand for whatever gives the nicest view (I do have a tripod, though, so have a hand spare for the camera...you might be 'setting' both lamps instead, if you don't have a stand!)! Good luck! I use a single 'daylight' compact-fluorescent bulb right next to the camera lens and calibrate the camera to the light source using a blank sheet of white paper (your camera may or may not have this capability).
  15. I've just come to the end of my first year of 'more serious' collecting (4 years in all) and I actually think I have been quite lucky! But perhaps I am in a minority of 1! The previous pic was taken in very bright sunshine, perhaps exaggerating the mirrored appearance from a previous clean and casting shadows around the lettering etc. This one may be a better likeness: I get all my coins costing over around £50 from dealers Peter, this one is from Bucks Coins I think the 'blue cast' to your photos doesn't help, Paulus - polished coins acquire a kind of blue sheen as well as the mirroring. However, I still think it does look cleaned, but couldn't give a proper assessment without the coin being in hand. But as you say "previous clean" anyway, then no harm done if there was a reduction in price. Paulus, I think that the main issue is the photo. The light appears to be coming from too shallow an angle. In theory, the light source should be as close to perpendicular to the surface of the coin as you can manage (allowing for the camera itself getting in the way). Another issue is the white balance, which is what gives a color cast to the photo (usually blue, yellow or green) dependent upon the type of lighting used. It may be worth experimenting with some of your camera's settings. Here is a photo of the best 1908 halfcrown that I have seen.
  16. It worked ok for me. Both downloaded and installed without issue (Adobe Air needs to be installed first).
  17. Did you mean NOT agressively cleaned there Dave? Great crown which hopefully will re-tone nicely over the years. Do you think that the different % of silver for example pre and post 1920 tone differently? I'm buying unc George v and George v1 for my OWN collection still Dave! It think that it does. It's certainly true of the early 1920's silver coins (except those that were blanched) when the mint was experimenting with different metal mixes. Many of these exhibit a yellowy tone with light pastel shades of green, red etc. In my experience, pre-1920 silver is more likely to be colourfully toned than post-1920 silver (which generally tones a golden colour), but is that because of the silver content or just because they are older, or for some other reason altogether. Attached is the most interestingly toned 1920 coin that I have.
  18. That'll be the "PCGS MS68 No WW" coin then, you know, the one with WW on the truncation. I wonder how PCGS came up with MS68, given that they obviously didn't look at the coin they were slabbing.
  19. What about the 1835 shilling (MS67), that went for a massive 4112 USD (inc BP) = 2550 GBP!
  20. You can say that again. Touché
  21. 1835 sixpence sold for $1,880 = £1,170. That is just plain bonkers!
  22. What did the 60/59 penny go for? $9,400 (inc BP) = £5,850
  23. Nick

    Ebay's Worst Offerings

    billpuguk sure does like his slabs!
  24. Do you have any other photos of this coin? It may just be the angle of the light that makes it look lightly polished. Lightly polished Nick? Mirror springs to mind lol
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