Hussulo

Welcome to the forum.

Sounds great and very useful. Email sent.

Never a better word said. or as the old saying goes buy the coin and not the slab.

Colin these also look nice as you get different coloured background options: http://www.valleycoin.com/index.php?cPath=9_406_664

Hi Mike. First thing first DONT clean the coins. It all depends on how much time and interest you have. You could buy books research the coins and look at auction archives to see what some fetched plus compare your grade to theirs, but if your looking for a quick sale or an honest valuation you could let a trusted dealer look at them for you. You could try and auction them but most auction houses only want the better stuff. You could take pictures of them and list them on an on-line auction site but all this takes time. Most dealers will offer a price for the lot and not just pick the best and leave you with the rest. I would have no hesitation in recommending Chris the owner of this site along with a couple of other members/dealers whom frequent this site.

I'm not starting a war. Too many non-tombers on this forum. To be honest I'm not really into the opinions (grades) of the companies that slab coins but I do like using slabs for storage. The ones Colin pictured are easy to crack open and re-use. So you can still open them to handle coins if you want and when your finished you just pop it back in again.

Hus, Where do you get yours from? I think it was a US seller but they look just the same. I haven't needed to buy any since I first bought them over a year ago. I purchased 4 boxes to save on shipping.

I use a similar case to this: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ALUMINIUM-METAL-LOCK...93%3A1|294%3A50 It's insides are empty unlike the one shown but you could probably remove the insides of the one shown. It is wide enough to hold several boxes of slabs and it has two lockable catches on the front. I have also etched my name on the handle but the bank also put a sticker on it with my details before putting it in the safe.

Colin that's exactly the type of thing I use for my loose gold coins.

You're welcome. About the sneezing part. Coins have known to change appearance after being slabbed. If you miss handle a coin it could be a couple of years before a fingerprint shows up. Likewise if someone sneezes on a coin it may show spots after it has been slabbed. That's why some buyers in the US prefer to buy a red coin in an earlier generation (ie PCGS green label) slab. The theory is if it's going to turn it probably would have by now. Bronze and copper although does tone nicely and is nice in red is far too volatile for me. That is one of the reasons I prefer gold coins for my main collection. As for the cent collector. You have a point but as soon as you start to spend hundreds of thousands of dollars on one coin you are entering the realm of investment whether you like it or not. Some of the prices you see quoted for high end red US coins is just scary. I mean imagine you owned one and you took a look at it one day to notice it now has some brown toning on it. The value of the coin could be halved over night! The coin has went from being a red to a red brown! I think the cent collector is offering anybody $150,000 for a 1909-S VDB cent in PCGS MS67 (guide price is $110,000) If I was spending that on coins I would wrap them in tin foil too. Keeping coins in the bank. Again I to believe coins should be admired but I keep my gold coins in the bank now. Once they passed a certain value I didn't feel safe about keeping them in my house. I also though that if there was a fire (heaven forbid) at my house the insurance might pay out but there are some coins I couldn't replace. So I feel safer with them at the bank where I can still go down to look at them when I remove or ad any.

I don't believe slabbing coins will accelerate the ageing process or toning but a common misconception is that slabs are 100% airtight. It all depends mainly on what kind of environment you store your coins in. I have have full set of slabbed 1/3 farthings which I store in a PCGS prestige box and I've also put several small silica gel pouches in to draw out any moisture that may creap in. Best also to keep them in a dark place where there isn't great changes in temperature. If you leave a coin in direct sunlight it will be affected. I've heard other collectors that place shiny new copper coins in with there collection. They say the new coins attract any bad things in the atmosphere first which should protect your more valuable coins. I believe this is the principal of how the intercept shield covers for slabs and intercept shield slabs work. As you know copper and bronze coins command a premium when in red, unfortunately do to the composition of the metals they are most likely to tone and get damaged from the likes of verdigris. I've also heard that Stewart Blay famous US cent collector who's cent collection is made up exclusively of high end red pieces wraps each of his slabs in tin/ aluminium foil and tapes the edges up to make them further airtight.

True but I didn't get as far as listing that one on the site.

Some coins consigned to my father-in-law for in law for sale and auction on Coins4u.net. Final reduction on this coin. Purchased for £130 last year. Priced to sell as my collecting interest has changed. Starting price £80. 1967 Mule Bahamas 2C with New Zealand reverse NGC MS 64 RB Reduced to a starting price of £100 1723 George I double struck farthing

Purchase now £80 1723 George I double struck farthing Reduced to purchase now £350: Link to these coins below: http://www.coins4u.net/catalog.asp?catid=518

Happy Birthday Clive hope you've had a nice day.

Too much light in the picture can you take a close up?

I totally agree. I thought the 1884 would easily make a MS63 as the reverse is more of a filled die as opposed to wear. I bet if I cracked it out and resubmitted it would come back a different grade. TGP's aren't and cannot be seen as the definitive answer when it comes to grading etc.. They offer a service which many people take and its good that they guarantee the slabbed coin is genuine but when it comes to grading they are offering an opinion and in regards to the 1884 I don't agree. Not that I'm saying it's Mint state by British standards but compared to my other MS63's its just as nice if not nicer. On the subject of TGP's and getting it wrong. I have a coin which I sent to one of the top TGP's it came back body bagged as cleaned. I could see a couple of hairlines but in my eyes it didn't amount to cleaning and I've seen similar coins with more hairlines slabbed. So I sent it off to another top TGP. This time it came back "Damaged or Tooled"??? I re-submitted it to the second TGP (Damaged & tooled one) now it came back okay and is residing in an XF45 holder!!

Latest one added 1884: I have now completed the British 1/3 Farthing set in PSGS MS condition. http://www.pcgs.com/setregistry/AlltimeSet...=14010&ac=0 The PCGS site only has Victorian ones listed but I've spoken to them about adding them all. The complete dates for a set and my grades are below: 1827 - George IV MS64BN 1835 - William IV MS62BN 1844 - Victoria MS64BN 1866 - Victoria MS63RB 1868 - Victoria MS63RB 1876 - Victoria MS63RB 1878 - Victoria MS63RB 1881 - Victoria MS64RD 1884 - Victoria MS62RB 1885 - Victoria MS64RB 1902 - Edward VII MS64RD 1913 - George V MS65RD I now need the varieties and proofs. Although I might move on to the other fractionals.

Nice collection Scott. Regarding the last one I cannot see what you are referring to? I tried copying and pasting your html for bigger pictures but I just get pop ups and no picture?

Reduced to purchase now £80 1723 George I double struck farthing I've also put my favourite error up for sale reduced to purchase now £450: Link to these below: http://www.coins4u.net/catalog.asp?catid=518

Thank you. They would most likely grade them tighter then PCGS. I only went down the road of getting them all PCGS graded as a couple already were in PCGS slabs and I thought it would be neat to complete the set and enter it into the PCGS registry for a bit of fun. 1/3 farthings (apart from 1902 & 1913) are hard to find in a true British uncirculated grade but I'm happy with the grades I have so far amassed them in (although there is always room for improvement!).

Thanks, I purchased the 1835 a few years ago but I wasn't aiming for a set back then. I think 1/3 farthings are quite an undervalued and seldom collected type. The low mintages also don't really reflect on the prices. So I thought it would be a fun set to do. I'd say it took about two years. I've upgraded a couple of coins to get to where it is now. I may or may not upgrade in future but I plan on tackling the 1/2 and 1/4 farthings as well. It would be nice to have a complete set of fractionals. It's a nice feeling completing a set even if it is quite a small one.

What happens if a buyer believes an item is not authentic? When buyers file a claim alleging that the item is not authentic, we require the buyer to destroy the item. Once a buyer confirms destruction of the item, we will reimburse the buyer or provide an eBay coupon. From eBay.com: http://pages.ebay.com/purchaseprotection/index.html

It looks policy has been rewritten. The above section quoted from ebay is gone. Closest thing is this. "What happens if a buyer believes an item is counterfeit? * Sellers shall work with the buyer in good faith during the resolution process to provide buyer with appropriate documentation or other assurances to satisfy the buyer that the item is not counterfeit, if such information is available. * If buyer and seller cannot agree that the item is not counterfeit, for covered claims that meet the conditions and are not excluded, buyers are required to send the item back to the seller. Cost of return shipping will be paid by the buyer or eBay in our sole discretion, unless otherwise agreed upon by the buyer and seller. * Covered claims that meet the conditions and are not excluded will count as a violation by the seller of our prohibited and infringing items policy. * Sellers shall not list, advertise, or cause that item to appear for sale, barter or trade, on any eBay Inc. (including our subsidiaries, joint ventures, and other members of the group) web site or service located around the world. * While buyers are not obligated to provide third party confirmation that an item is counterfeit in order to open a claim, in cases where there is written confirmation from the manufacturer that the item is counterfeit, or in additional circumstances where eBay elects to exercise its discretion, eBay may request the destruction of the item by an authorized third party and at eBay’s expense. "