Coinery

Strimming...OH, man, have I done my fair share of that! Watch out for slugs and dog excrement!

That's a shame - took me quite a while in photoshop. But to summarise, the CGS photo looks elongated in the vertical plane, which would make the bust look comparatively narrow ('squashed'). That would also account for the broader harp in the 'fake'. None of this is to say it ISN'T a fake, just that the comparison with the CGS photo probably isn't much of a case. Makes very good sense, Peck, will dig the Laptop out tomorrow morning...probably just my I-Phone signal, we've just moved...EVEN closer to Declan!

For some reason I can't access any of the uploaded images but, still without photographic comparisson, and purely a stab in the dark without evidence, the body of the harp looked broader, and details like the buckle, well everything, actually, just felt wooly, or 'weak'! And I'm also stabbing in the dark, without die comparisons so, I too, could be shot down in flames (but I don't mind, I'll just go to my boating forum friend's instead)! Edit: to learn all about getting me bottom blacked, and me stern gland sorted!

Without a genuine image for quick reference, I'd still suggest most of the devices are terrible on the reverse, the angel on the harp especially so! These G3 halfcrowns are such a viper's nest, that you really wouldn't attempt a purchase without running over seuk's site so, in all likelihood, you wouldn't get caught out...hopefully!

Phwoarrrr!

Would love to see pics Nicholas! http://s1322.photobucket.com/user/2tearsinabucket1/media/image_zps5156f762.jpg.htmlhttp://s1322.photobucket.com/user/2tearsinabucket1/media/image_zpsec3e06b5.jpg.html Usual standard there, then, Nicholas!

I would feel the same way.This is Brooker 1083, which shows how good the damaged one was before the mark was made. The figure of 1K was plucked out of the air, but shouldn't be too wide of the mark based on the Brooker coin selling for over £3K. The lustre on the Brooker piece makes it win hands down. Oops!I'd be the same, it would always niggle! I'd rather have 2 top class C1 shillings, every time...and maybe wait until I had 3k for the right halfcrown, or just accept that Edward pennies are the best that I could afford! Basically, as always, I'd go for a collection that's first class, regardless of whether you're spending £10 on each coin, or £10k! I can't even afford a top class G5 shilling at the moment, so I'm just not buying right now!

or this one which has got an "earful". http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Half-Crown-George-V-1927-Matt-Proof-FDC-Mint-/370856072443?pt=UK_Coins_BritishMilled_RL&hash=item5658be94fb This bloke is surely just trying to impress his mates down the pub? Maybe he borrows money from friends against the future sale of these coins?He'll need to move soon...coming to a place near you!

Nice buy G! You can definitely add me to the list of the R P Coins literary fan club!

With Peter, here! Dave's is an infinitely more pleasing coin to look at, but I'd go for the other one every time! Not at that price however!I do like the C1 groats, an under-collected series I'm sure! Edit: and I probably wouldn't even go for the other one either...too 'unbalanced'!

It does - YAY YAY! YAY! we're all gonna die...jpg cat at its own computer.jpg Cat - grumpy face.jpg This forum 'disturber of the peace' needs a severe warning TG!

Staggering stats!

Hmm? Sorry, what? Covered in paint is what I am!

This is the same software as is used by a canal forum I'm presently frequenting...they've got the 'warnings' wotsit on there too! I'm surprised you haven't clocked any up yet, Peck!

CGS verdict - EF - but rejected for reasons as yet unknown CGS is surprisingly speedy on this batch which is nice to see. I think they automatically reject a coin with with any flan crack. Nice coins by the way. I can't fathom that at all? How does that affect its authenticity? Where will we stand with the hammered coins they have recently taken on?

Yes, the forum software is still not running right on my app. either. Now I think about it, it's been tempermental for 3 or 4weeks, fingers crossed for a fix...even though I haven't got time for this great pastime at the minute! Still can't resist a quick check-in, though!

For how much the TPGC's charge, ALL coins should be photographed and stored on their database, it hardly costs a great deal! Maybe they should even go to the lengths of picking out relevant details in macro? They owe it to their own continued existence to make changes! Personally, I don't care if they tumble to the ground, it'll bring back the intelligence that's required to collect top-level coinage, and return the finest pieces back into the hands of genuine collectors, removing the banker/investor from the equation! Hallelujah, praise be to the old days, and those who really cared and connected with the artefacts they were in possession of!

Do you think it might be tooled?

Call me paranoid but im suspicious about everything:) the coin - why is it so dark? ive seen clips on youtube ppl 'applying' fake toning the seller - not a coin buyer/seller and suddenly hes got silver coins from different countries at bargain prices his stock - usually all coins (apart from polish) are in low grades but his coins are all in high grades well i guess ill give it a try anyway... The only thing that bothers me about it is the obverse right field, which looks as though someone's given it a rub to see if the 'dark stuff' would easily come off (which of course it wouldn't, not without ruining a perfectly decent-toned coin), and the rim nicks/dings! It would be very much price-dependent on whether I'd bid!

A bit more fuel! http://china-mint.info/forum/index.php?topic=6858.0

What are you suspicious about in particular, the coin, the seller, his stock?

This harks back to one of my biggest gripes with the slabbing principle...what ticking time-bombs are being locked away with the coins? Not that I'd want to stir that old debate up again!

Ignore verdicare, just a bit of water! If it's really stubborn, you could use acetone ( not the nail varnish type with conditioners included) but, be warned, some coins can occasionally finish with a light purplish tinge when tipped in the light! It's not terrible, and doesn't happen that often! I acetone all my copper, bronze and .500/CuNi coins, just to rid them of any invisible grease! If you've got gritty gunk in your beading, don't rub the coin, but swish it to remove what you can. The main point being, don't rub the gritty gunk all over the surface of the coin and hairline scratch it. My actual advice would be to leave any clean to the buyer, I wouldn't play around with a valuable coin unless you've experienced a number of failed attempts on some lesser-valued coins! Welcome! I'd keep it and start a Victoria or penny collection!

There's got to be a chance, I suppose? There would be space for the stop to be entirely hidden under that i, and there could've been more than one die re-used this way. However, I wouldn't buy it as one, though, as I'd definitely want a 'peeping stop' die-variety to substantiate the claim. There must be endless varieties out there, which are now impossible to 100% confirm, it's only in cases such as your suggested part showing stop, that you can name it. Unless other die features clearly link it to a li obverse.... Without a long-winded post, I think you know where I'm coming from. Basically, without other die identifiers, I don't see how he, or anyone else, could ever call it ii/i He can call it what he likes and that is the rub. Listings on ebay are full of spurious claims, and the higher the catalogue value the more frequently they are encountered. I too would like a little corroborative evidence in the form of an identifiably identical 1851 die to say for certain. And if he'd spent the last couple of weeks pulling that kind of truly verifiable evidence together, he sure as hell wouldn't be leaving it to rot on his hard-drive! It would've been proudly copied and pasted into a very grand description on eBay!