Coinery

I've only ever bought spink, but I hear there's a little extra with CCGB, am I missing out on much?

Told you you'd get plenty of assistance with that one on here, looks like a stay-clear! Will reply to your PM later!

Good, thanks Peter - that makes me feel better - I only paid a fiver for it. GVF money would have made me feel guilty! Ignore our resident pessimist - those aren't so much 'knocks' as 'faint taps, almost inaudible' I have to confess it never leapt out at me either. In all honesty i don't think I'd be unhappy if I'd bought GVF blind and your coin arrived! I'll give you a fiver for it, Declan, then you won't have to feel guilty about it anymore! A deformed rim/edge is an imperfection, however obvious. I'm on Peter's side. Me too, the eye is drawn to it, so a negative in the eye appeal stakes, still a bargain though! Well I'm just going to have to jolly well go and get my PC out then in that case!

Good, thanks Peter - that makes me feel better - I only paid a fiver for it. GVF money would have made me feel guilty! Ignore our resident pessimist - those aren't so much 'knocks' as 'faint taps, almost inaudible' I have to confess it never leapt out at me either. In all honesty i don't think I'd be unhappy if I'd bought GVF blind and your coin arrived! I'll give you a fiver for it, Declan, then you won't have to feel guilty about it anymore!

Never having moved beyond KEVII until quite recently, I was wondering what your thoughts were on this one? The toning makes me think maundy, but can't decide whether the fields are from the duller currency? Would appreciate your grading thoughts on this tricky little coin. It's looking aUNC to me, what do you think?

I have a Nikon D90 with a 105mm macro lens. Using the metadata from Coinery's posted pictures; it looks as if he has a Canon EOS 1100D. Hah, your good, Nick! And a 100mm macro! I kind of agree with Peck re any macro camera will do, but I wouldn't swap my set-up! Nor I mine, although I have to say that I think that the Canon autofocus system (for static subjects) is a little better than that on the Nikon. Bugger, you responded before I could edit that wrong YOUR out!

I have a Nikon D90 with a 105mm macro lens. Using the metadata from Coinery's posted pictures; it looks as if he has a Canon EOS 1100D. Hah, you're good, Nick! And a 100mm macro! I kind of agree with Peck re any macro camera will do, but I wouldn't swap my set-up!

I think you'll find CGS has a few misnomers in their submission process too, unless they've sorted that side of things out now? It took 2 calls, and an increase in fees to sort it all out, when I submitted 20 coins last year (without discount)!

I don't think anyone would remotely suggest that the plastic of slabs can react with coins. 'Factors prior to encapsulation' is the thing I fear the most, especially with coins you haven't submitted yourself!

If it is definately plastic damage, then it is easiest just returning it, as the coin might just get worse in the slab. I have never tried cracking a slab before (or cleaning a coin with chemical either) and will probably just make a mess of things with my current luck! (what are the chances of getting plastic damage on a PCGS slabbed coin?) I am aware that their grading at the high end can be somewhat "optimistic" according to the previous reviews on the forum. However, I thought that I might give them a try due to the very low buyers' premium. I bought about 4 coins blind from there...2 uncs barely made EF, and the other two were 1/2 grade lower. Great auction if you are attending but, personally, I would'nt ever blind bid with them again!

Croydon?

Uh, correction......it must be a PCGS Proof 67 CAMEO.....( and I must approve it in hand). Greeting gents and ladies allow me to introduce myself as 'Bidask'...! I am the one who posted the offer on the PCGS message board World and Ancients and it stands...... This all sounds rather intriguing, what was the link again?

Also gets rid of a lot of expensive postage costs back and forth, notwithstanding the eradication of import/export issues! There would be no Import costs to PCGS in France. Is anyone actually Reading my posts correctly? PCGS have an office in Paris so there is no Tax duty to pay There's no import duty into the States either, It's just if you want to get it back into the UK again after slabbing. Well somebody mentioned bloody duty somewhere! Anyway, it's saves nearly £20 on postage by missing out the slabbing process as a first party!

No, neil6mil for £6 delivered! Absolute bargain! Nice one. Don't know how I didn't spot that one - I usually look out for 1911 threepences. Thanks, Nick, I'm glad you were sleeping!

Also gets rid of a lot of expensive postage costs back and forth, notwithstanding the eradication of import/export issues!

Many thanks VS, though that really comes as quite a surprise to hear of reworked dies in the maundy coinage! Slowly, slowly, shall I go into this 'modern' milled! Slowly, slowly, indeed!

Which customs problem? A guy on another forum had to pay customs to receive his coins back.Later I will try to find a link. Which part of PCGS in Paris, France is not in the EU where member states don't pay tax? "Thank you for your inquiry. We do submit raw UK coins to NGC, PCGS and ANACS before auctioning. The grading fees typically is between $10 and $30 a coin depending on the value. When you send a consignment in of raw UK coins, please make sure it is noted that you would like any or all coins graded, so we know which you would like sent in. If you have a list of coins you have interest auctioning, feel free to send me an email."

No, neil6mil for £6 delivered!

Are you talking about maundy here, or are you just talking satin/currency differentials?

Uhhhhh, and all the pointers you indicate give the coins a prooflike appearance, sharp rims, high definition strike etc. Your "satin" coins are virtually impossible to distinguish and come down to a matter of opinion, which to be brutal, quite often rests with the value in most peoples eyes. Just a point of interest, that's if anyone is interested The 1911 maundy 3d uses Obv2 I of BRITT to bead, whereas the proof 3d is Obv1 I to gap. But the maundy set I have from the proof set has the proof 3d not the maundy 3d. So I guess as there is only one 3d in the proof set you get the proof 3d. I love this forum!

Good forum, hey! I for one find the counter-marked coinage really interesting, and would love to have the time and resources to compile a micro-collection of these coins! G3 is a truly interesting period numismatically, and relatively affordable for everyone! I like it!

Thanks VS, plus another excellent point about the imperfect 1, Scott! As I said, lord knows where my logical brain was for this one, there were so many clear and basic pointers! My eyes and mind are not quite tuned into this 'modern' stuff, give me six months to season myself on this one! Glad I asked the question, though, loads of superb learnings at Pre-Decimal High!

Thanks Nick, yes, on reflection, this coin is definitely toning like a typical currency coin, there are certainly no blues in there! Cheers, Peck, Peter & Clive! And, of course, "proof!" God knows where my logical brain is at the moment? The rims! They'd give it away for currency every time! Thanks, John!

I've just come to the end of my first year of 'more serious' collecting (4 years in all) and I actually think I have been quite lucky! But perhaps I am in a minority of 1! The previous pic was taken in very bright sunshine, perhaps exaggerating the mirrored appearance from a previous clean and casting shadows around the lettering etc. This one may be a better likeness: I get all my coins costing over around £50 from dealers Peter, this one is from Bucks Coins I think the 'blue cast' to your photos doesn't help, Paulus - polished coins acquire a kind of blue sheen as well as the mirroring. However, I still think it does look cleaned, but couldn't give a proper assessment without the coin being in hand. But as you say "previous clean" anyway, then no harm done if there was a reduction in price. Paulus, I think that the main issue is the photo. The light appears to be coming from too shallow an angle. In theory, the light source should be as close to perpendicular to the surface of the coin as you can manage (allowing for the camera itself getting in the way). Another issue is the white balance, which is what gives a color cast to the photo (usually blue, yellow or green) dependent upon the type of lighting used. It may be worth experimenting with some of your camera's settings. Here is a photo of the best 1908 halfcrown that I have seen. I don't know if it will help, but ALL of my photos are taken under artificial lighting (my only option presently). I bought a couple of £4 flexi-lamps from Ikea, and put 'daylight' bulbs into them, these you can get cheaply from just about every craft shop out there! I set one above and from the right, and the other I hold free-hand for whatever gives the nicest view (I do have a tripod, though, so have a hand spare for the camera...you might be 'setting' both lamps instead, if you don't have a stand!)! Good luck!

Absolutely agree! The only and best results, using the above method, are on full-lustred bronze! I just don't know 100% whether a beautiful full-lustre will be damaged, long term, by olive oil? But I would certainly love to know from anyone that does! It's something that worries me, all those nicely stored and oiled bronzes/coppers in 2x2's...are they going to look knackered in 20 year's time?