Coinery

Are you talking about maundy here, or are you just talking satin/currency differentials?

Uhhhhh, and all the pointers you indicate give the coins a prooflike appearance, sharp rims, high definition strike etc. Your "satin" coins are virtually impossible to distinguish and come down to a matter of opinion, which to be brutal, quite often rests with the value in most peoples eyes. Just a point of interest, that's if anyone is interested The 1911 maundy 3d uses Obv2 I of BRITT to bead, whereas the proof 3d is Obv1 I to gap. But the maundy set I have from the proof set has the proof 3d not the maundy 3d. So I guess as there is only one 3d in the proof set you get the proof 3d. I love this forum!

Good forum, hey! I for one find the counter-marked coinage really interesting, and would love to have the time and resources to compile a micro-collection of these coins! G3 is a truly interesting period numismatically, and relatively affordable for everyone! I like it!

Thanks VS, plus another excellent point about the imperfect 1, Scott! As I said, lord knows where my logical brain was for this one, there were so many clear and basic pointers! My eyes and mind are not quite tuned into this 'modern' stuff, give me six months to season myself on this one! Glad I asked the question, though, loads of superb learnings at Pre-Decimal High!

Thanks Nick, yes, on reflection, this coin is definitely toning like a typical currency coin, there are certainly no blues in there! Cheers, Peck, Peter & Clive! And, of course, "proof!" God knows where my logical brain is at the moment? The rims! They'd give it away for currency every time! Thanks, John!

I've just come to the end of my first year of 'more serious' collecting (4 years in all) and I actually think I have been quite lucky! But perhaps I am in a minority of 1! The previous pic was taken in very bright sunshine, perhaps exaggerating the mirrored appearance from a previous clean and casting shadows around the lettering etc. This one may be a better likeness: I get all my coins costing over around £50 from dealers Peter, this one is from Bucks Coins I think the 'blue cast' to your photos doesn't help, Paulus - polished coins acquire a kind of blue sheen as well as the mirroring. However, I still think it does look cleaned, but couldn't give a proper assessment without the coin being in hand. But as you say "previous clean" anyway, then no harm done if there was a reduction in price. Paulus, I think that the main issue is the photo. The light appears to be coming from too shallow an angle. In theory, the light source should be as close to perpendicular to the surface of the coin as you can manage (allowing for the camera itself getting in the way). Another issue is the white balance, which is what gives a color cast to the photo (usually blue, yellow or green) dependent upon the type of lighting used. It may be worth experimenting with some of your camera's settings. Here is a photo of the best 1908 halfcrown that I have seen. I don't know if it will help, but ALL of my photos are taken under artificial lighting (my only option presently). I bought a couple of £4 flexi-lamps from Ikea, and put 'daylight' bulbs into them, these you can get cheaply from just about every craft shop out there! I set one above and from the right, and the other I hold free-hand for whatever gives the nicest view (I do have a tripod, though, so have a hand spare for the camera...you might be 'setting' both lamps instead, if you don't have a stand!)! Good luck!

Absolutely agree! The only and best results, using the above method, are on full-lustred bronze! I just don't know 100% whether a beautiful full-lustre will be damaged, long term, by olive oil? But I would certainly love to know from anyone that does! It's something that worries me, all those nicely stored and oiled bronzes/coppers in 2x2's...are they going to look knackered in 20 year's time?

With cleaned anything, it really depends on the original grade of the coin! A coin in a grade that should be blessed with a high degree of original mint lustre, will be ruined if the cleaning has removed that, no matter how nicely it tones back! Whereas, if the coin is in a grade where the lustre has long since disappeared, but should now be nicely oxidised, you can just about tolerate a past 'non-hairlining' clean, provided it's nicely retoning, or you are happy to nurse it back to tolerance yourself! I've recently learnt a few things about dipping silver: 1) if you want to learn how to spot dipped coins, dip a selection of junk coins yourself and study the effects! Even the lightest dip can wave a flag at you then! 2) make sure if you are dipping for best effect on lustred coins, that the 'black' you are hoping to remove is sat ON the lustre, and not gobbled through to the silver beneath! Get your loupes out! 3) don't waste your time dipping lower grade coins, except to understand point 1, it never looks right! 4) in my opinion, the only benefit of dipping is for use on atrociously toned coins, where you are feeling happy about patiently waiting for a subsiquent and 'hopefully' eye-pleasing retone, or where you are wanting to remove grime from a full-lustre coin! 5) No, no, no! Caution, caution, caution! Luck, luck, luck!

Absolutely, Peck, I've always liked them, and they are a nice starter collection for the budding numismatist. Not too many years (31), no complex varieties, but sufficient mix of common and rare/scarce in high grade, to make assembling the collection interesting. Plus two attractive designs. Brass threepences seem especially vulnerable to verdigris. So, as has been asked numerous times, I know, but what do you all do with your modern lustred brass and copper? Is an acetone rinse and an olive-oil smear a good or a bad thing? Has anyone ever kept these coins long-term this way? Has anyone noticed any changes in appearance over a long period?

It's a CGS slab, and the seller's name contains 'lockett'. Far be it from me to start a conspiracy theory, but ... Sellers address is Longfield Kent. Gill Lockett. Does Stink a little though email gill@londoncoins.etc. I think that confirms! I always wondered who slabbed coins worth less than the cost of slabbing!

I've just been looking at some G6 proof coins on the Heritage website, dated 1939. I can't find any proof coins for this year in Spinks, can anyone clear this up for me?

Do you think that's a 4 under your 5 too?

Is that typical for the 2 to sit so high on the die? Here's a picture of a typical 1852 sixpence which seems to match up pretty well with what I believe is the remains of the 2. I'd say you're very much right, I'd certainly be 100% happy with that as a 3/2 if I were holding it in my collection! Nice New Year variety, Nick, well done!

Is that typical for the 2 to sit so high on the die?

Well, same as, chaps AND chappets! Happy New Year!

Bugger, classic example, I forgot M Gouby (remind me of his numismatic status again?)! Happy New Year, Paul (I may have wished you that already)! Time for a sharp exit, me thinks! And Declan who often has plenty of very high grade 20th century pre-decimal on the bay And you forgot Bob as well! Although I can sort of forgive you because he is mainly a Penny man and I know that doesn't float your boat Stuart! Yes, sorry, Bob! That is the problem when you adhoc on a bottle of whiskey! I think I'm going to knock up a word document in the future for occasions such as these!

Elizabeth 6d 281030455548 What do you think, I wouldn't touch it with a barge pole? If it stays cheap enough, I will buy it to find out!

I never considered this before, so maybe it's also about personality, then? As I would never have got very far if, after 4 years of collecting, my collection was still only 4 coins in size and, due to my lack of experience, already half my collection were not my best buys! I do think that driving a few old bangers around first, before buying that Ferrari, can only be a good thing!

Bugger, classic example, I forgot M Gouby (remind me of his numismatic status again?)! Happy New Year, Paul (I may have wished you that already)! Time for a sharp exit, me thinks!

Aye (With one eye, that is) ! Happy New Year, Declan!

Google the names provided, and you'll find them all online with sites!

Staggering study, seuk! I have to say, the sheer number of Ob's & Rev's is enough to put me off the G3 silver forever! I guess the only consolation, excepting your 2012 image, is that most of the contemporary counterfeits are looking a little the worse for wear in 2013, and thank God for that! Happy New Year, seuk, and thanks for all you've added to my understanding of counterfeits this year!

I have to agree with you based upon that image! I recently had a supposed 'no stop after DEI' 1700 shilling (the thread's on here), which turned out to be a blocked die (which Spink's accepted, and proposed a change to the catalogue). At micro observation, this coin showed the stressings on the coin's surface of a blocked die, which would need to be absolutely perfectly blocked to avoid it (I would think); I can't see this on your coin, and I'd say it's even better grade than my shilling!

Bar the Cuban, that could've been Peter's post! Have you got two user names? Happy New Year Richard, I look forward to another year at Pre-Decimal High, if only they'd taught me this for the 11 years I was at school!