Coinery

If it is definately plastic damage, then it is easiest just returning it, as the coin might just get worse in the slab. I have never tried cracking a slab before (or cleaning a coin with chemical either) and will probably just make a mess of things with my current luck! (what are the chances of getting plastic damage on a PCGS slabbed coin?) I am aware that their grading at the high end can be somewhat "optimistic" according to the previous reviews on the forum. However, I thought that I might give them a try due to the very low buyers' premium. I bought about 4 coins blind from there...2 uncs barely made EF, and the other two were 1/2 grade lower. Great auction if you are attending but, personally, I would'nt ever blind bid with them again!

Croydon?

Uh, correction......it must be a PCGS Proof 67 CAMEO.....( and I must approve it in hand). Greeting gents and ladies allow me to introduce myself as 'Bidask'...! I am the one who posted the offer on the PCGS message board World and Ancients and it stands...... This all sounds rather intriguing, what was the link again?

Also gets rid of a lot of expensive postage costs back and forth, notwithstanding the eradication of import/export issues! There would be no Import costs to PCGS in France. Is anyone actually Reading my posts correctly? PCGS have an office in Paris so there is no Tax duty to pay There's no import duty into the States either, It's just if you want to get it back into the UK again after slabbing. Well somebody mentioned bloody duty somewhere! Anyway, it's saves nearly £20 on postage by missing out the slabbing process as a first party!

No, neil6mil for £6 delivered! Absolute bargain! Nice one. Don't know how I didn't spot that one - I usually look out for 1911 threepences. Thanks, Nick, I'm glad you were sleeping!

Also gets rid of a lot of expensive postage costs back and forth, notwithstanding the eradication of import/export issues!

Many thanks VS, though that really comes as quite a surprise to hear of reworked dies in the maundy coinage! Slowly, slowly, shall I go into this 'modern' milled! Slowly, slowly, indeed!

Which customs problem? A guy on another forum had to pay customs to receive his coins back.Later I will try to find a link. Which part of PCGS in Paris, France is not in the EU where member states don't pay tax? "Thank you for your inquiry. We do submit raw UK coins to NGC, PCGS and ANACS before auctioning. The grading fees typically is between $10 and $30 a coin depending on the value. When you send a consignment in of raw UK coins, please make sure it is noted that you would like any or all coins graded, so we know which you would like sent in. If you have a list of coins you have interest auctioning, feel free to send me an email."

No, neil6mil for £6 delivered!

Are you talking about maundy here, or are you just talking satin/currency differentials?

Uhhhhh, and all the pointers you indicate give the coins a prooflike appearance, sharp rims, high definition strike etc. Your "satin" coins are virtually impossible to distinguish and come down to a matter of opinion, which to be brutal, quite often rests with the value in most peoples eyes. Just a point of interest, that's if anyone is interested The 1911 maundy 3d uses Obv2 I of BRITT to bead, whereas the proof 3d is Obv1 I to gap. But the maundy set I have from the proof set has the proof 3d not the maundy 3d. So I guess as there is only one 3d in the proof set you get the proof 3d. I love this forum!

Good forum, hey! I for one find the counter-marked coinage really interesting, and would love to have the time and resources to compile a micro-collection of these coins! G3 is a truly interesting period numismatically, and relatively affordable for everyone! I like it!

Thanks VS, plus another excellent point about the imperfect 1, Scott! As I said, lord knows where my logical brain was for this one, there were so many clear and basic pointers! My eyes and mind are not quite tuned into this 'modern' stuff, give me six months to season myself on this one! Glad I asked the question, though, loads of superb learnings at Pre-Decimal High!

Thanks Nick, yes, on reflection, this coin is definitely toning like a typical currency coin, there are certainly no blues in there! Cheers, Peck, Peter & Clive! And, of course, "proof!" God knows where my logical brain is at the moment? The rims! They'd give it away for currency every time! Thanks, John!

I've just come to the end of my first year of 'more serious' collecting (4 years in all) and I actually think I have been quite lucky! But perhaps I am in a minority of 1! The previous pic was taken in very bright sunshine, perhaps exaggerating the mirrored appearance from a previous clean and casting shadows around the lettering etc. This one may be a better likeness: I get all my coins costing over around £50 from dealers Peter, this one is from Bucks Coins I think the 'blue cast' to your photos doesn't help, Paulus - polished coins acquire a kind of blue sheen as well as the mirroring. However, I still think it does look cleaned, but couldn't give a proper assessment without the coin being in hand. But as you say "previous clean" anyway, then no harm done if there was a reduction in price. Paulus, I think that the main issue is the photo. The light appears to be coming from too shallow an angle. In theory, the light source should be as close to perpendicular to the surface of the coin as you can manage (allowing for the camera itself getting in the way). Another issue is the white balance, which is what gives a color cast to the photo (usually blue, yellow or green) dependent upon the type of lighting used. It may be worth experimenting with some of your camera's settings. Here is a photo of the best 1908 halfcrown that I have seen. I don't know if it will help, but ALL of my photos are taken under artificial lighting (my only option presently). I bought a couple of £4 flexi-lamps from Ikea, and put 'daylight' bulbs into them, these you can get cheaply from just about every craft shop out there! I set one above and from the right, and the other I hold free-hand for whatever gives the nicest view (I do have a tripod, though, so have a hand spare for the camera...you might be 'setting' both lamps instead, if you don't have a stand!)! Good luck!

Absolutely agree! The only and best results, using the above method, are on full-lustred bronze! I just don't know 100% whether a beautiful full-lustre will be damaged, long term, by olive oil? But I would certainly love to know from anyone that does! It's something that worries me, all those nicely stored and oiled bronzes/coppers in 2x2's...are they going to look knackered in 20 year's time?

With cleaned anything, it really depends on the original grade of the coin! A coin in a grade that should be blessed with a high degree of original mint lustre, will be ruined if the cleaning has removed that, no matter how nicely it tones back! Whereas, if the coin is in a grade where the lustre has long since disappeared, but should now be nicely oxidised, you can just about tolerate a past 'non-hairlining' clean, provided it's nicely retoning, or you are happy to nurse it back to tolerance yourself! I've recently learnt a few things about dipping silver: 1) if you want to learn how to spot dipped coins, dip a selection of junk coins yourself and study the effects! Even the lightest dip can wave a flag at you then! 2) make sure if you are dipping for best effect on lustred coins, that the 'black' you are hoping to remove is sat ON the lustre, and not gobbled through to the silver beneath! Get your loupes out! 3) don't waste your time dipping lower grade coins, except to understand point 1, it never looks right! 4) in my opinion, the only benefit of dipping is for use on atrociously toned coins, where you are feeling happy about patiently waiting for a subsiquent and 'hopefully' eye-pleasing retone, or where you are wanting to remove grime from a full-lustre coin! 5) No, no, no! Caution, caution, caution! Luck, luck, luck!

Absolutely, Peck, I've always liked them, and they are a nice starter collection for the budding numismatist. Not too many years (31), no complex varieties, but sufficient mix of common and rare/scarce in high grade, to make assembling the collection interesting. Plus two attractive designs. Brass threepences seem especially vulnerable to verdigris. So, as has been asked numerous times, I know, but what do you all do with your modern lustred brass and copper? Is an acetone rinse and an olive-oil smear a good or a bad thing? Has anyone ever kept these coins long-term this way? Has anyone noticed any changes in appearance over a long period?

It's a CGS slab, and the seller's name contains 'lockett'. Far be it from me to start a conspiracy theory, but ... Sellers address is Longfield Kent. Gill Lockett. Does Stink a little though email gill@londoncoins.etc. I think that confirms! I always wondered who slabbed coins worth less than the cost of slabbing!

I've just been looking at some G6 proof coins on the Heritage website, dated 1939. I can't find any proof coins for this year in Spinks, can anyone clear this up for me?

Do you think that's a 4 under your 5 too?

Is that typical for the 2 to sit so high on the die? Here's a picture of a typical 1852 sixpence which seems to match up pretty well with what I believe is the remains of the 2. I'd say you're very much right, I'd certainly be 100% happy with that as a 3/2 if I were holding it in my collection! Nice New Year variety, Nick, well done!

Is that typical for the 2 to sit so high on the die?

Well, same as, chaps AND chappets! Happy New Year!