Sword

For me, the first commemorative crown is the 1935 rocking horse. A commemorative coin generally features a one-off design and only issued for a single year for which the event took place. Making a commemorative coin to commemorate new coin designs sounds a bit strange. The Wreath crown were also struck for 9 years, not one. If the wreath crowns were "commemorative", then the currency halfcrowns, florins of the fourth coinage might also be classified as "commemorative" by the same argument which doesn't make much sense. By 1927, the production of crowns has ceased for more than a quarter of a century and it was obvious that it will not be minted again for general currency use. I think coin collectors regretted the absence of this large size coin and was nostalgic with this denomination. Hence, Oxford MP and president of the Royal Numismatic Society , Sir Charles Oman, pushed for crown pieces to be minted in small numbers each year.

What grade would you give yours Rob? Nice even tone!

EF doesn't look unreasonable to me. Perhaps just a little less than EF. That mark across the lion's nose is a little distracting also. You will get expert opinions soon. My grading of early milled is naive.

It's difficult to tell, especially for the reverse without bigger photos (for me anyway). It can very well be EF but I think it would be prudent to ask for bigger photos if you are thinking of buying.

But the wreath crowns weren't commemorating anything though. It was more of a nostalgic item.

It's a real shame that the crown is missing. The 1911 set would look significantly more impressive with it. Mind you, I guess it would add another £700 or so to the price of the set making the whole thing rather expensive. Great toning by the way. Really nice!

I have always thought that Pistrucci's refusal to copy Chantrey's bust of George IV got him sacked as Chief Engraver. But apparently, he was never officially appointed to the post as he was a foreigner (and was forbidden to hold the office by a law of William III). When William Wyon was appointed to the technically "vacant" post of Chief Engraver, Wyon and Pistrucci got the same salary of £350 which was the average of the top two engraving posts at the mint. It was alleged that to avoid being sack as the Chief Medallist, Pistrucci deliberately took 30 years to complete his great work, the Waterloo Medal. Sacking him would mean that the immense down payment would be wasted. When the dies were finished, the medal was never struck partly because all the intended recipients have already died with the exception of the Iron Duke.

I don't think you can join online. I assume you need to phone them to give your credit card details to pay for the joining fee. Then they will then set up the account for you.

The more likely word is "NOW!"

Bagmarks caused by the reeding on the edge of another coin?

Photos I took after the coin was slabbed (the white marks on the observe are just dust) and most closely match the actual appearance.

This is one of the first coins I have ever brought: Original auction photos: CGS Photos:

Indeed. But in addition to decent photos, dealers should offer at least 14 days upon delivery for cancellation which I think is the law regarding distance selling. I agree that it is very annoying if defects such as hairlines, verd, past cleaning, artificial toning, etc are not mentioned. Being able to return a coin is not really an excuse not to mention such things. I do get the impression that some sellers are very accurate with grading lower values coins but are more generous when grading high value pieces. It's up to them but I would rather people don't do things like that. Different dealers have different reputations. There is nothing wrong in my view with sellers aiming to make say 100% profit compared to what they paid in auctions. If a dealer is on the lookout of real bargains on auctions and sell at high profit margins, then that is their choice. Sellers aiming to make about 30% profit margin would find it much easier to buy stock and will have much faster turnaround times. Just different business models and one buys from sellers sharing his philosophy.

Some spelling mistakes:

It's an error alright. Paying $574.50 for it that is.

I remember buying a suit from a well known departmental store. The site stated that stock is low and there were two available at that size. I placed the order, paid (and money has been taken out of my credit card) and have got multiple e-mail confirmations. One giving me the date I can pick it up from the store. Then I got an e-mail that the order is delayed and eventually not available and my money will be refunded. Obviously, they are liable if there had been a contract. But I have no doubt that their T&C (which of course I couldn't be bothered to read) would have stated that contract is only binding on delivery.

I think the key point is whether you have made a binding contract with the seller. If you do, then the seller is legally obliged to honor the contract (but getting him to do so is another matter.) There is definitely no contract yet if you if you just try to buy an item labelled with an incorrect price. The seller is only inviting offers at this stage. If it is in a physical shop, then the contract is binding once you have paid for the item. Then the item is yours. However, if buying online, then depending on the seller's T&C, you’ll have legal rights (and a contract) either: - once you’ve paid for the item - once they’ve sent it to you For example, the following T&C is from a very respectable seller states that that the initial acknowledgement does not constitute a contract and that a contract is binding only when an order confirmation has been sent (after the item has been dispatched). The following is from citizen advice "Shopping online Your legal rights depend on something fairly tricky in the law: whether or not you have a ‘contract’. If you have a contract, the company can’t usually cancel your order, even if they realise they’ve sold you something at the wrong price. They’ll only be able to cancel it if it was a genuine and honest mistake on their part that you should’ve noticed. If you don’t have a contract and someone realises they’ve told you the wrong price, they can cancel your order." If nothing is stated in the seller's T&C, and speaking as someone who is not a lawyer, my impression is that there is probably no binding contract until the item has been dispatched.

Gosh, that's very light!

Yes to both questions. I really like them myself.

Exact diameters of some common UK coins are: LSD: Farthing 20mm, Halfpenny 26mm, Penny 30.81mm, Silver threepence 16mm, Brass threepence 21mm, Sixpence 19mm, Shillings 23.1mm, Florin 28.5mm, Half Crown 32mm, Crown 38.6mm. Decimal: Halfpenny 17mm, Penny 20.32mm, Twopence 25.91mm, Old Five Pence 23.5mm (pre 1990), New Five Pence 18mm, Old Ten Pence 28.5mm (pre 1992), New Ten Pence 24.5mm, Twenty Pence 21.4mm, Old Fifty Pence (pre 1997) 30mm, New Fifty Pence 27.3mm, One Pound 22.5mm, Two Pound 28.4mm, Crown 38.6mm. 23mm are good for the 12 sided £1 coin http://vi.raptor.ebaydesc.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemDescV4&item=110339646462&category=549&pm=1&ds=0&t=1559547793000&ver=0 With capsules you need to go up to the nearest mm. Hence two pound 28.4mm will need a 29mm capsule. Unfortunately, there will be a bit of rattle. If you are using a quadrum, then you can use a 28mm size as the foam can expands a bit with no problem. Hence no rattle and eliminates the risk of friction between the coin and plastic. I personally use quadrums even though you can't see the edges of the coins.