sound

Well I hadn't heard anything and neither had the BBC. (Smilie, where are they?) Try and get along this week. Just round the corner from me. Mark

I would refine this only a little - after 1935, you want coins to be GEF at the very least (which is very nearly uncirculated) except for the rare dates : 1946, 1949, and 1951 brass 3d, 1943/1944 silver 3d, 1952 sixpence, possibly the 1950/1951 pennies. Even coins which are expensive in BU such as 1954 halfcrowns and florins, or 1959 Scottish shillings, plummet like a stone in EF and can picked up for about 1/5 of their of BU price. With the exception of some 1950s halfcrowns, florins, and shillings, you want Elizabeth II coins to be BU. For George VI here is a quick rundown of what you should aim for in BU: Halfcrowns - 1944/45/46, 1948 Florins - ditto Shillings - ditto Sixpences - 1939 to 1951 Silver 3d - 1937/38 Brass 3d - 1937, 1941/42/43/44, 1952 Pennies - 1937/38, 1947/48/49 Halfpennies - 1937/38, 1942/43/44/45, 1952 Farthings - all dates except 1938 Pecks, Comments are unarguable IMO. If you go back further try and buy "everything" in the milled period in GEF or above. There will be some compromises with EF. Perhaps only accept lower grades where the rarity factor is compelling. Take a look at Spink valuations in lower grades from a catalogue say six years ago and compare them with the latest prices. Hardly any movement in prices. Then look at EF and above , check the difference. Of course this is a generalisation, it would have to be, but it's about right. Regards Mark

Dan1, As has been said welcome. You have had some great advice already. Here's some more. Don't be in a hurry, sounds like you are doing the right thing, research, research, research. Consider your budget. Within you budget buy the best you can afford. Low grade coins do not generally appreciate in value, high grade coins tend to. Less really can be more with coins. Get to understand the basics of grading. Buy the grading book on Chris's site, its very good. You may want to consider GV silver, still relatively undervalued in my opinion. If you buy from a dealer talk to them first, a good one will give you time. Buy the least expensive coins within your collecting area first. This will minimise expensive mistakes. You will make them. Don't be frightened to keep pestering this board. You will find a great deal of patience and support. Don't think your questions are scilly, everyone has to start somewhere. Why not let us know what area you focus on? Don't be surprised if you change your mind. Kind regards Mark

Ah not far at all. Let me know. Regards Mark

Peter, Is it between me and you? Should like to have a look if not to far. Let me know if you go ahead. Kind regards Mark

Sadly because ignorance is bliss. Mark

Leeshiel, This is such an interesting story that just seems to run and run. Thanks for sharing it with us. Would it be possible to share Martin's write up when completed? Look for forward to more news. Kind regards Mark

Just been handed a couple of large bags of these. Anyone know the Appox. current value per coin. Also what is the best way of disposing of these? Kind regards Mark

Thanks Chris, Typically what amounts of coins, pre 47, that is are you interested in? Mark

No message Mark. Peter, I had accidentally blocked you, sorry. Please try now. Regards Mark

Many dealers, including Chris Perkins who runs this site and Rotographic, will pay a price for pre-47 which is pretty constant between them (bullion value minus a margin for profit). Why not contact Chris as I'm sure he'd appreciate first refusal? Peck/Peter & Anyone else, Spose what I am asking is what do dealers like Chris do with them. Regards Mark

Hi Peter, Sorry I should have explained that none are worth more than BV. I have checked grades etc. Just have no experience in disposing of BV coins, would be grateful for advice. Regards Mark. Ps Peter please check your in box.

Very interesting conjecture. I doubt whether your question can be answered with certainty, certainly North dosn't address the issue. The first coin minted is listed as between 1066-1068? Harold as you know was killed on 14 October, William being crowned on December 25. It could be argued reasonably, that coins were immediately struck in preperation for his coronation. After all what better way for a Monarch to establish his authority. Surely there were enough coins in circulation to suffice for the intervening two months? The Saxons did not submit readily it wasn't until 1071 that Willian returned to Normandy. During that time William struck two other coins which demonstrated IMO his desire for continuity. Of course as stated your thought provoking question probably cannot be fully satisfied. Regards Mark

Matt, Really appreciated your enthusiasm and excitement. Thoroughly enjoyed your post. Regards Mark

Rob, In addition to what's been said look at the mintages. If you select low mintage sets there may be price appreciation. You might want to look through a price catalogue and compare what's increasing in value and what is not. Comparing Spink now with one five or six years old can be very revealing. Of course this not limited to Spink. You also need to be careful with regard to bullion prices when buying modern sets. Rising metal values can hide the fact that there is no intrinsic value other than the basic value. Some of the 20 Centuary proof sets , 1911, 1927 and so on may be worth a look. You can also pick up some of the individual coins from the sets. These have and are likely to increase in value The mint have way of telling you that everything is collectable. If they produce thousands of sets they are usually not. If you want to be really cynical you could apply the same principle when someone tells you someting is not collectable. Have they got a few tucked away in their safe. Kind regards Mark

Ah, so stabbing has a value then. Wise advice. Mark

Slabs are fine if you have no strong views or storage issues. Me? All my other coins are raw, so keeping just one in a slab makes little sense to me.Tom, can't bring myself to slab what isn't. Or unslab what is. Perhaps just plain indecisive?

Peter's comment is very "on the money". Really can't decide whether to keep my slabbed coins, slabbed or not. In grading terms just don't have a strong view about it. Will it become an all consuming passion here? Peter, by the way, you have mail. Kind regards Mark

Thanks guys for your kind remarks. I have very, very patient designers who helped me on the way. I like what they have done. As to under £100 I liked the idea. Just felt anyone on a budget, for whatever reason, or a young person building a quality collection for the future might find it helpful. If your looking to build or transfer a site you may want to look at Squirrel mail. Kind regards Mark

No, not at all. Can you be more specific?Mark Sorry, design software for the site! Is it a drag n drop design with integral shopping cart provided by the host? Or is it bespoke, dream weaver, or home-built with HTML etc?Bespoke by my designers in New Zealand.

No, not at all. Can you be more specific? Mark

Thanks guys. I missed this when I bought several pennies back in the summer. Something did not seem right when I put it up on the site. Still nice coin and I did not overpay. Will have to rethink it. Kind regards Mark

Rob, When I put the coin up I checked it out and was concerned I had made an error when I originally purchased it. Soon sorted it out but thought I needed help. Hope it explains Kind regards Mark

False alarm. Found it. It's their. Leaf peeping in a New England Autumn is much easier. I was a little unsettled as the highest leaves did not seem as close to the linear circle as I thought they should. Sure glad it's not a 2. Unless you can turn it into a 2 B. Kind regards Mark

Hi Peter, Sounds good. Regards Mark