Nek17

Coin3:

Coin2:

Hi there, I will take the advice Done my test with acid, and result is ... surprisingly good. I dripped one on the surface of schilling, the red color was good to show stirling - I left it on for a while to see the max damage. After wiping it off, I used my 40X magnifier to check the surface, no apparent damage at all even loss of toning Now I am thinking if the stuff I bought was not strong enough! LOL Here are some pics before, during and after:

I have tried the vinegar baking soda method, only dipped for a few seconds. Result is encouraging: I can def see more details now after black toning is removed. I also tried to see the surface loss/damage under 40X magnifier but hard to see any. So I think this method could be the one to use, if, I have to clean up some ugly toning; soapy water gentle wash should be the only way. Left: Before, Right: After.

Before you call me crazy, here is the coin I intend to test the clean: There are still lovely details but the full dark toning made it very difficult to see. I've read articles saying NONO to clean silver coins except gentle soapy water clean. "Never try to remove the natural oxidation from coins, such as the tarnish on silver. This is called "toning" and the coin is worth more with it intact. Removing it will damage the coin's surface and greatly reduce its value. In other words, no dipping, polishing, or chemical solutions should ever be used on coins." I haven never used other 'least damage' methods - e.g. vinegar+soda powder, so will see the effect and damage later - unless there are people really prefer full dark brown or black tonings?

Depends on the coin Nek. My personal preference is toned. Here for example is one of mine, which 'in the hand' is a nice almost-black-with-hints-of-golden brown. Obviously I've adjusted the photo so it's as close to real life on my laptop, so might appear different to you. But I'd hope you'd agree, it's not unpleasing? This is a beautiful one! I like the even, greyish dark toning. I guess I won't mind any toning on hammy at all, only on the milled one as you said some patchy toning or something covered most of the details. I will post my test result on this schilling later tonight

Welcome aboard, Nek, plenty to learn here on this forum for all of us! 1) not all private sellers are unscrupulous. Some have their own reasons, and some are just, well, private! There are bargains to be had from genuine sellers who are private! However, maybe give them a pass if you are uncomfortable with it! 2) you've only got to unluckily bump into a couple of arses on eBay to get 95%, might be better to look at the big picture, namely, their full trading history, before writing off more potential bargains! 10) definitely wrong here I personally think! Take a look at www.quicktest.co.uk I have confirmed and reassured myself on endless occasions re the authenticity of coins, using their products, WITHOUT as much as a trace noticeable of damage to the edge! We're not talking the Crippen Test here! I'll put up some before and after pictures over the next couple of days, just to clear up the acid misunderstanding! I rate it as highly as the scales on the occasions where it's called into service. I would suggest around 2 in 100 for me, as I get more and more comfortable with what constitutes a genuine coin! Enjoy the ride, it's a great forum! Thanks mate, I just tried to be the most conservative in purchase since I've got almost no experience yet For the acid test, most articles said No; however, as an engineer and newbie I did order the test solution and some scrap silver. I plan to file on the groove of rim to do some test - then I could see the real damage - the online vid and pictures are not good for me (poor eyesight!)

LOL, Nick, just realized we have similar interest and even names are similar! I haven't reached this level yet - we will see. I am trying to find a good database of numismatic data for 1800 onwards UK coins (e.g. good solution picture with details explained, weight, size etc.), seems there is none I had to combine information from http://www.coins-of-the-uk.co.uk, http://coinsgb.com and also our http://coinsgb.com I think I will end up making own database or webpage soon... maybe I missed some good websites? BTW, if admin can see this, the forums 'read first' post has invalid links to grading etc. Typo, should be 'http://www.predecimal.com'

LOL, Nick, just realized we have similar interest and even names are similar! I haven't reached this level yet - we will see. I am trying to find a good database of numismatic data for 1800 onwards UK coins (e.g. good solution picture with details explained, weight, size etc.), seems there is none I had to combine information from http://www.coins-of-the-uk.co.uk, http://coinsgb.com and also our http://coinsgb.com I think I will end up making own database or webpage soon... maybe I missed some good websites? BTW, if admin can see this, the forums 'read first' post has invalid links to grading etc.

Thanks dive, I will certainly check CGS out

Many thanks to you - forum Gods I have gone through most of videos and articles about testing, and ordered testing kit, the eBay seller doesn't know if it's Neodymium Rare Earth just say it is good and works *_* We will see, I also bought some coins from eBay, time to put internet knowledge into use, I will post pics if have doubts. I summarized my findings about how to avoid fakes - priority from top to bottom, I know this may also skip some goodies opportunities from reputable vendors but...) 1. Never buy private auction coin or from eBayer who offered any private auctions; 2. Never buy from eBayer with <95% good reviews or changed eBay ID many times (especially the names are all very different from each other); 3. Weigh in the coin, check >+1% or <-5% ones; 4. Use magnetic button to test 45 degree angles - sliding too fast or stuck are fakes (no idea how it will change for .800, .925 or lower ones); 5. Use caliber to measure diameter and thickness; 6. Use magnifier to check: bubble/soapy feeling on blank and cast line on the edge/rim; 7. Check other details according to a genuine sample, die alignment etc. 8. Ping test 9. 'Cartwheel' test?? 10. Not to be used testing method - acid! I guess these steps would help me avoid 90%+ fakes? Judged by the quantity of Youtube vids, the US eBay were full of counterfeit silver dollars; however, not many vids for UK coins. Finally it's down to the question that did I pay too much for it