Nek17

Hi there, a while ago I posted message seeking grading suggestions on some GIII coins and now CGS report came back as two are 'unauthenticated' I will check the coins again when I receive them, however I don't get the comment on the 'spike' though... CGS grading: We have examined your coin and have found the following:- 1) On the reverse the coin shows a cluster of raised bubbles following DEF in the legend. 2) On the obverse the coin has a raised 'spike' in the field extending from the rear of the truncation. We are therefore unable to authenticate this coin.

What were they like on the weight? Both weight and dimensions are good, I can't remember the % loss, will post data later when capsules are received. I have now contacted eBay sellers, fingers crossed.

Yeah, I have sent him a msg and I did spend good time on his website studying these, however it seems there are more unknown 'fakes' flowing around BTW, these two passed all visual/material test methods I could gather.

CGS60 -Low EF, in fact I worried about this the most, it looked like being cleaned.

We have examined your coin and have found the following:- 1) On the reverse the second letter R in BRITANNIARUM is broken at the top. 2) On the obverse there is a raised 'spike' in the field extending beyond the rear of the truncation and also below the truncation almost diectly above the first 1 in the date, inconsistent with a mint product We are therefore unable to authenticate this coin.

Thanks Rob, that's the part confused me coz the coin still has the effect, it might be some rough cloth cleaning left those series of fine lines.

Hi, newbie's question here: how much scratch/scuff is a sign of cleaning. I am searching posts and reading Derek Francis Allen's 'Grading' book but got puzzled with one florin coin. I could see some very fine scratches on the blank all around head however I couldn't find same series of scratches on the head itself (including wear spot), and they both are of same lightness/lustre, the 'cartwheel' effect is also well noticeable on both sides - can this series of scratches be the sign of minor cleaning? I will provide a scan later, the scratches are like this one - to the right of head: Thanks.

Thanks Rob. Is it correct that heavily cleaned/scratched coin will lost the cartwheel effect? I guess this one has been 'gently' cleaned but still left mark.

OK, here is the scan of my coin - realized the scratches are not as visible as when holding it in hands, but you could still see some long fine lines around head (not the shorter ones, think they are circulation marks). Has this been cleaned?

As a newbie, I'd like to hear your expert's grading on these ones I just purchased (I am collecting all grades for certain years to learn/use as reference), then I will pub my own grading but keep the vendor's advertised grade in secret just in case I purchased it from someone in this forum These all passed my weight, size and ping tests Magnetic not yet to be received... Many thanks!! Coin1: (to be continued - only two pics per page? these are all links though )

Reading on so many threads about fakes - courtesy to SEUK, Nck, Coinery ... really grateful seeing experienced lads do care about the situation and reported the items, so fewer newbies like myself won't fall right into the shiny traps, but why, why for so many dates outtathere I chose some heavily infected year i.e. 1818 I meant to minimize the risk of buying counterfeits. I don't think I fall into obvious fakes (based on coins above ) , just a bit struggling with grading and check cleaning details ATM.

Obverse looks cleaned, but also looks to have the remnants of another numeral under the second one in the date (1 over 8 ?). Now that I know it's a 6d, I would suggest it's better than EF - in fact, there is barely any sign of wear. The lack of detail is simply caused by trying to get too much design onto a small die, and is a common feature of the sixpence. I at first thought the 'overdate' was just a toning spot, so I zoomed the screen and there definitely seems to be something there. It does look like a 9, though that's open to debate. Have you also noticed the right hand side of the second 8? It looks rather different from the left hand side. I think I now need to do three things (after go home): 1. Buy a macro lense for my canon DSLR - I tried the 'water drop' trick using my iPhone last night but did't work 2. Compare the 3 1818 6D I have and check the dates details 3. Send this one to CGS for their opinion, not sure if they will reject it after two second coz the doubt about being cleaned... Will report here later.

Obverse looks cleaned, but also looks to have the remnants of another numeral under the second one in the date (1 over 8 ?). That is quite interesting, it looks like a 9 to me - never noticed it! But 1898 is Vicky... I will go back and check other two sixpences to compare. Thanks.

Many thanks mate, just realized I should have named these coins clearly due to different wear spots: Year Value 1 1888 4D 2 1888 1S 3 1888 2S 4 1818 6D 5 1818 2/6 6 1818 2/6 7 1818 6D 8 1818 6D

Many thanks!! Found SEUK's thread and digging in http://www.predecimal.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=6589&st=0&p=78630&hl=seuk&fromsearch=1entry78630

Many thanks Paul for your comment For Coin 7 - it certainly looks very shiny, I am still trying to find a valid method to tell from: cleaned, AU/UNC grade. There are also many EF grades very shiny as well, puzzled. For the 1816 question, since there is another much better known Nick in this forum with similar interest, so I just changed it from 1816 to 1818 to suit my newbie profile

Hi Jodep, welcome to the forum. As you could see I am also a newbie here, so really can't advise but share some learning experience here. Cheers and enjoy the hobby.

'Interestingly, you'll find .500 silver won't react, the solution will stay yellow, so very useful for identifying the coins from the .925/.500 crossover.' Very much appreciate the advice Coinery, I think I will mend my acid test priority as - use with great caution

Just want to say hi to everyone, I am a beginner interested in 1816 milled silver coins onwards. I am now going through all the 'teaching' materials on eBay and internet, hopefully I could learn from the gurus here to tell the fake from goodies. Cheers.

Coin8:

Coin7:

Coin6:

Coin5:

Coin4: