Paddy

Welcome to the forum! Storing a growing collection is always a headache and largely done to personal preference. I have a very similar target collection to yours and have kept mine in a growing number of the WH Smith's "Magpie" albums, which are reasonably cheap and secure. The double action ensures coins do not slip out, and the plastic is coin safe. They are not good for display and the folders gradually fail under the weight of coins. The range of Lindner coin trays are another alternative. They are good for display and very adaptable, but each tray is expensive. Many new collectors start with coin flips and long boxes, which is simple and practical, but viewing your coins becomes tedious. Traditionally the serious collector would use the custom made coin cabinets. Others may be able to point you to current suppliers, or you can keep an eye on the auctions. These are much better for display and the cabinets look appealing, but the coins are more open to the environment, and they can become inflexible as your collection expands. Of course if you are following the American trend towards graded and encapsulated coins, you need an entirely different approach and I have no idea how they tackle that. P

I'd say definitely 1735. This is what the 1733 date looks like:

I am pleased to discover how scarce the Farthing is too! I have this one in my collection. No idea when or where I picked it up.

I think all these alterations add to the history. A plug means someone thought it interesting enough to use as a medallion or touch piece, then someone later felt it was interesting enough to repair. Engravings are often love tokens or claims to ownership. A split or fragment means it has been in the ground for some time. I think that is why I find perfect proof coins a bit dull.

I guess most "serious" collectors would avoid plugged coins, or any other damage. But if that is the only way you can fill a gap within budget, then go for it! I have a number of damaged coins in my collection - some with engravings in the field, some ex-mount, some hammered even missing fragments, but they will fill the gaps until and unless I can afford to replace them with something better. Here, for example, is my William I penny. I would love to have one without the missing chunk, but until one comes along at a price I am happy with, it will stay with me. Your Henry VII, by the way, is a lovely example apart from the plug.

Ah, apologies, my pre-conceptions. I saw the profile portrait, which looked a lot like the Edward the Confessor design, but I now see there are William I coins with a similar portrait.

Just seen this on the BBC website. First picture is too distant, but further down is a closer shot of what seem to be mainly Edward Confessor coins, if I have got it right? https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/articles/c623g74zj6vo

Although they are nice enough examples as they are, I don't think they would set the world alight in any of the specialist coin auctions. They would probably want to list them as one or two job lots to be picked up by the dealers. Your best chance of making the most is probably Ebay. Prices to be determined by researching previous sales there. At least you have the D&H numbers, so any private collectors will pick up on the ones they want.

There is a lot to unpick there! First to cover off the non-tokens - the halfpennies and farthings - these are all covered adequately in the usual "Coins of England and the United Kingdom" reference book. Nothing listed in your selection looks massively scarce and value will depend largely on condition. The Gaming tokens generally have very little value. They were made mostly during Victoria's reign as nostalgic mementoes. The regional tokens are the interesting pieces. D&H refers to the Dalton and Hamer "Provincial Token Coinage of the 18th Century" series of books and reference numbers printed in the early 20th century. These numbers were repeated in "The Token Book" printed by Galata in 2010, which is probably the easiest reference to get hold of now. I have not the time to go through and check the rarity of all the tokens listed, and value will vary enormously depending on condition. Looks like the good basis for starting a collection, and you probably need to acquire or borrow the reference book to progress.

That should do you fine. Unlike Pennies, I don't think there are that many single denomination collectors for shillings. By the way, I would extend your range just a little, to the start of the milled shillings in 1662 (barring the very scarce Cromwell issues in the 1650s). Quite a few of the 17th century shillings are fairly reasonably priced and this gives you the opportunity to add a few more monarchs to the run. Shillings from 1696 and 1697 are fairly plentiful, as are some of the Charles II dates in the 1660s to 1680s.

I don't know of a book just on shillings - maybe others do? A good starting point would be the usual "Coins of England & the United Kingdom" which comes out every year, but you only need to update occasionally. This is equivalent to the US Red Book. If you want to get more specialised "English Silver Coinage" by Maurice Bull is probably best, but only really necessary if you are going into all the varieties.

I remember a documentary in the 1960s showing the young royals preparing for Christmas decorating a tree. Anne was up a ladder and Andrew was trying to climb up with her. She turned on him and ordered "Geroutovit!" loudly. She obviously spotted a wrong'un early on!

That explains why I am not seeing any in circulation! I no longer do sets or proofs, so it looks like 2024 will remain a blank year for me.

Welcome to the forum. I am no expert on the Gun Money, but it would seem likely that there are many die faults and die fill variations around as they were struck largely on campaign. Even the regal coinage from the 1690s has a huge number of variations.

One of the oldest axioms for life: "Don't eat yellow snow"!

I messaged them and they have replied accepting their mistake. They have asked me what the price should be. I haven' bought one of these for years - any suggestions?

... and of course toothed border, not beaded (or bearded) both sides. Has anyone told the vendor?

The only date deemed scarce is 1984 - the last year they made them and mostly issued in sets. Having said that, I don't think there are many people collecting them, so may be difficult finding a buyer even for a 1984. They are still exchangeable at banks and the post office, although they hate them. Even though they weigh precisely half the 1p and so can be counted on the scales, for some reason they insist on counting them by hand!

Be careful you check with the right city mint. Paris mint 1786 is very scarce and valuable. Orleans is much more common.

Interesting. Here is my 1906, which I have no reason to doubt, and there seems to be a slight offset:

I am not sure. I have just been looking at all my Ed VII halfcrowns, and all bar 1910 have the orb very slightly offset to the right. I am more concerned by the irregularity of the "SOI QUI", but that could be PMD or poor focus.

I think this is one too. This one in Hong Kong and taken in 1986. The building is the Officer's mess of the Queens Gurkha Engineers - I suspect long since demolished by the new Chinese regime.

Welcome @Mark Acton-Smith to the forum. The 1971 two pence is one of the commonest coins ever produced. Nearly 1.5 billion were made as part of the decimalization process, so despite the rumour mill on Ebay and some social media sites, it is worth just the 2p face value. The only proviso is that the scrap value of copper is quite high, so in bulk they may be worth more in metal content, but you have to find a scrap metal merchant interested in processing them. Also, it may still be illegal! Sorry if that is a disappointment!

There are advantages to having good old-fashioned reference books!

The R beneath the wreath makes it Orleans mint. The creature beneath the bust is described as a "Greyhound running left" though it looks far more like a dragon to me! Indicates Mathieu-Pierre Combret as the moneyer, 1780 to 1788.