mrbadexample

Well, most of my collection is in 13 Lindner trays, which I can always buy more of. I do like it for the farthings because it's a nice snug fit. It's the early dates, about 1860-1874 that are in the plastic wallets, plus the overspill of other denominations. Certainly, a few more trays would be a cheaper option. Are you saying you use the albums with the pocketed sleeves, into which you insert a paper envelope? If so, how do you see them? I like to have a nose at mine...

One reservation I have is the size of holes in the trays - 22mm being the smallest. For the silver 3d at 16.5mm, that's quite a lot of scope for movement. But apart from that, the 28 trays a Crozier holds would accommodate my completed (as if!) collection nicely, making it a one time investment. Anyone else want to help me talk myself into it?

I can't stop looking at that Crozier cabinet now.

I know, I know. I've just been reading the thread on cleaning decontaminating with acetone. Anyone know if it works on what I assume is some sort of chlorine residue? To be fair, I don't think any of the good stuff is affected as they're more recent purchases. Mostly the stuff I've had for 30 years or more, but I need to think about offloading some to free up funds for better specimens. The mahogany cabinets are beautiful. But do you know how many farthings I can buy for those prices? I'm not sure I can justify that as I don't have that many really high grade specimens.

Ahhh, thanks. Appreciate the recommendation - it's been doing my head in looking at the myriad available.

I'm sorry, I'm too busy to reply because I'm now looking at USB microscopes so I can get a better look.

Hmmm...I really can't tell. The lettering and area around the crown do look a bit grainy, but the higher points like the shoulder appear more consistent with the non-etched part. I guess that could mean the grainy texture has worn down through handling? There is some fairly heavy pitting in the portcullis too, but this is only in the area that would have been protected. If it is acid-etched, then I'd be thinking that the resist would have been in the form of some kind of tape wrapped round the coin as the edge has been protected in this area too. My next question is "why would someone do that?"

Thanks IanB. I can see why you might think that, but I'm not entirely convinced. Coin in hand, it doesn't look like the work of acid (to my untrained, non-metallurgist, non mint-error expert eye). Is there anything I can look for that would indicate the work of acid? That's the highest resolution my scanner will do so I'm struggling a bit for magnification. Is there anything I can look for that would suggest it's a mint error rather than post-mint? Is there anyone nearby that fancies a closer look? P.S. Just so we're clear, I didn't join the forum to sell a dodgy 1p.

Hang on, I need two people interested to drive the price up, and Nordle's declared out. Anyone else?

Thanks. Is bhx7's 2p another example of a cud?

I believe it to be genuine - I pulled it out of my change. Do I need to open the bidding?

Yes, it's raised. Looks like a blob of solder. I've not heard the term "cud" before (cows notwithstanding), is it common? How does it happen?

Can anyone tell me what's happened to this?

A photo as the scan doesn't show it very well:

This 1994 penny appears to be corroding from the inside. Not sure what might have caused it but I've dug up better than this:

One for you, Nordle?

A similar one from 1918. I still can't find the others.

I've had a couple of these too - 1920 and 1913. I've just been to look for them and they're not where I thought they were so I'm not sure what I've done with them. Mind you, my overspill pile needs a bit of sorting.