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Always seems to be the case with really rare items, that they've been cleaned, polished and/or have verd on them.

Yes, it's obviously a poor specimen. It was the rarity which drove me.

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Yes, I bid on that, I think I was the under bidder; couldnt justify more because of the harsh cleaning and verd. I see it re-surfaced on the bay recently, one of this forums more favoured sellers , now a slabbing reject , attracted even fewer bids.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RARE-VICTORIA-MULE-PENNY-1860-/321938320645?hash=item4af504ed05%3Ag%3AH08AAOSwf-VWYFtc&nma=true&si=QpvVHmX4UTCz%252F7MxamyORLwjNWQ%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557

Jerry

Wonder what his reserve price was......

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And I loved his attempt to declare it unique, and that CGS couldnt value it as they hadnt seen one before. I doubt he'll make much profit on it.

Jerry

As mentioned in the original title Jerry...... honesty or knowledge ................Maybe greed ?.

Combined with stupidity as the pic he used says CGS reject due to cleaning.

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Interesting question i mentioned to a forum member the other day.

I have a 1862 halfpenny date its in fine so a lot better than a washer but has a spot of corrosion/verd.

Would you prefer one if its scarce/the same coin..... problem free or lesser grade thats ok ?.

Might sound daft but i have a few that wont IMO slab but was happy to buy them as scarce in grade.

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I have had good success tackling verd with verdicare, but a binocular microscope is essential I feel as the softened verd needs mechanical loosening. If do-able, would go for the better grade.

Jerry

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It is such a shame when an extreme rarity turns up with corrosion. When I get such a coin, I access whether the coin will benefit or not by removing the corrosion. My biggest decision was whether or not to remove much shiny deep rooted fluorescent green verdigris from a Fr90. I believed that leaving it there would cause further erosion, so decided to remove it. In my opinion, I did the right thing as I had no intention of selling it. Picture attached, I have no regrets.

post-5652-0-95295300-1450805176_thumb.jp

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Bernie ,unfortunately some of the scarce ones it seems to be a case of put up with the problem or dont have one IMO and your the expert.

Can you give any tips to us novices on what you did ?.

Jerry never having used verdicare is it worth me buying a bottle to try on some cheap COPPPERS ?.........i.e.PRACTICE

I dont buy any to sell but have accumulated about twenty scarce copper varieties and would like to preseve them ?.

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It is such a shame when an extreme rarity turns up with corrosion. When I get such a coin, I access whether the coin will benefit or not by removing the corrosion. My biggest decision was whether or not to remove much shiny deep rooted fluorescent green verdigris from a Fr90. I believed that leaving it there would cause further erosion, so decided to remove it. In my opinion, I did the right thing as I had no intention of selling it. Picture attached, I have no regrets.

Nice coin Bernie, Verdigris or not! :)

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Firstly I must emphasise that I am not advising one way or another on whether to interfere with coins. Sometimes you could make things worse !

The F90 had corrosion removed by soaking in a shallow container of degreaser, now a banned product, damages the ozone layer !, I haven't got any more.

While soaking, I placed under a microscope X10 magnification and picked at the corrosion with a needle. The longer time taken the better job can be achieved. The problem with working under magnification is that it is easy to slip and cause scratches. Again, while soaking, corrosion or dirt between legend can be removed with wooden toothpicks. (if you can find toothpicks made of wood) slightest slips ca cause scratches !

If you attempt any of the above, don't blame me if you are unhappy with the results !

Corrosion is metal loss, it cannot be replaced !

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Thanks Bernie.

Is there a degreaser that we can try and get hold of ,or can you tell us the name of the banned one :o .

Dont think anyone would blame you and sure they would have a practice first.

Pete.

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It is such a shame when an extreme rarity turns up with corrosion. When I get such a coin, I access whether the coin will benefit or not by removing the corrosion. My biggest decision was whether or not to remove much shiny deep rooted fluorescent green verdigris from a Fr90. I believed that leaving it there would cause further erosion, so decided to remove it. In my opinion, I did the right thing as I had no intention of selling it. Picture attached, I have no regrets.

Superb coin and so rare.

I don't think anything can be done for the Freeman 69 that I have. It was polished probably decades ago, with brasso or something. That tell tale sheen never leaves, despite some re-toning in the interim. Here's a picture of it. It doesn't look polished in the pic, but it is:-

1874H F69 reverse

1874H F69 obverse

Shame because it's otherwise not too bad for a quite rare specimen.

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1949 yes they are scarce ,cant tell much from the photo.

As mentioned earlier and although i have a couple and one slabbed (problem free ) ,better to have one like your own with more detail ?.

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Active (ie bright green, powdery) verdigris has to be removed or it will progressively eat away more of the coin. Inactive could possibly be watched, but I dont trust it. On archaeological finds I conserve with lovely carcinogens like benzotriazole, but does darken the patina. Info on the web, but risky to health without due precaution.

As I said before, verdicare is helpful, but mechanical picking is still required. It will be interesting to see how Paulus gets on with the stuff mentioned elsewhere on the forum.

Jerry

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Trichloroethane or similar was a good degreaser but I believe is now banned for many reasons, including, carcinogenic, damages the ozone layer, removes oils from skin.

I do believe that we have a chemist on our forum, he may be able to recommend a suitable replacement.

The verdigris dissolver mentioned earlier may be a good option, perhaps readers that have used it could explain their findings in greater detail.

When removing deep verdigris, submerging the coin in liquid while probing helps remove the deposits.

The F69 in the earlier post appears to be a nice example with no destructive corrosion issues.

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Active (ie bright green, powdery) verdigris has to be removed or it will progressively eat away more of the coin. Inactive could possibly be watched, but I dont trust it. On archaeological finds I conserve with lovely carcinogens like benzotriazole, but does darken the patina. Info on the web, but risky to health without due precaution.

As I said before, verdicare is helpful, but mechanical picking is still required. It will be interesting to see how Paulus gets on with the stuff mentioned elsewhere on the forum.

Jerry

Trichloroethane or similar was a good degreaser but I believe is now banned for many reasons, including, carcinogenic, damages the ozone layer, removes oils from skin.

I do believe that we have a chemist on our forum, he may be able to recommend a suitable replacement.

The verdigris dissolver mentioned earlier may be a good option, perhaps readers that have used it could explain their findings in greater detail.

When removing deep verdigris, submerging the coin in liquid while probing helps remove the deposits.

The F69 in the earlier post appears to be a nice example with no destructive corrosion issues.

Thank you

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1949 yes they are scarce ,cant tell much from the photo.

As mentioned earlier and although i have a couple and one slabbed (problem free ) ,better to have one like your own with more detail ?.

Obviously with them being so scarce, you're lucky to get a halfway reasonable one. What are yours like then, Pete?

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Active (ie bright green, powdery) verdigris has to be removed or it will progressively eat away more of the coin. Inactive could possibly be watched, but I dont trust it. On archaeological finds I conserve with lovely carcinogens like benzotriazole, but does darken the patina. Info on the web, but risky to health without due precaution.

As I said before, verdicare is helpful, but mechanical picking is still required. It will be interesting to see how Paulus gets on with the stuff mentioned elsewhere on the forum.

Jerry

Trichloroethane or similar was a good degreaser but I believe is now banned for many reasons, including, carcinogenic, damages the ozone layer, removes oils from skin.

I do believe that we have a chemist on our forum, he may be able to recommend a suitable replacement.

The verdigris dissolver mentioned earlier may be a good option, perhaps readers that have used it could explain their findings in greater detail.

When removing deep verdigris, submerging the coin in liquid while probing helps remove the deposits.

The F69 in the earlier post appears to be a nice example with no destructive corrosion issues.

Thanks for the useful information, gents.

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1949 yes they are scarce ,cant tell much from the photo.

As mentioned earlier and although i have a couple and one slabbed (problem free ) ,better to have one like your own with more detail ?.

Obviously with them being so scarce, you're lucky to get a halfway reasonable one. What are yours like then, Pete?

Rang tang ....one c.g.s. slabbed and another thats not much better :)

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