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Coins as old as my house

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I'd like to collect coins, small time, and clearly need to be focused. So I thought I could collect one of each British coin for the year my house was built, 1891. What else do I need to think about?

Do I want to include a sovereign and gold sovereign? Will they each cost five times as much as the rest together?

It seems that some coins in 1891 still had a Jubilee version where Victoria wears a crown. I'm intending to mount and frame the coins, so I assume I would have about 10 coins with the reverse facing and two with the different obverse so. But is it more complicated than this? 

I'm in no hurry. I could look for the coins over a period of years and see how much I feel like paying for the various qualities available.

What's my first move?

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If you intend mounting them for display I would suggest you find high grade but cleaned coins. Collectors don't like cleaned coins, so they sell for less. There is no point spending premium money on premium coins if you are going to knock the resale value for six by attaching them to the frame.

Your gold will be dependent on the spot price.

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I've done this by putting them into 2x2 cardboard flips/mylars.You can also write information on these. The self adhesive type are prefered. I did this for a friend who is into George 11 furniture. If you go this way I will happily send you a few sizes and between us wonderful forum  folks can cover all sizes.

 

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That sounds good. I could cut 2" rectangles in some Daler board and get that framed.

So you can get 2x2s to fit a farthing, halfpenny, florin, etc? I can see that these things will usually be sold in quantity and that if I only want one of each .. But if they are mounted side by side the cardboard will probably not quite match if they are made by different makers.

Are coins a tight fit in 2x2s? Do they rotate?

If you buy a coin from a dealer, how is it usually packed? (When you start thinking about something new there are suddenly lots of questions!)

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If you are going down the framing route then speak to a person who frames and mounts for a living. They will be able to cut the board accurately. Some will use laser cutters which gives consistency. Make sure you get non - reflective glass and you may even have to consider the type of wood used for the frame in case it has an effect on the coins. I believe mahogany is used for coin cabinets for this reason. 

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You can specify the sizes you want. Although mahogany/rosewood are the prefered timber ,why not just sandwich the coins on a glass/hardboard frame.The backing colour can be a card of your choice and a dab of glue will hold the reverse sides into place.Then add an example of each of the obverse types. Obviously I would aim for nice clear coin of each type which do not need to be BU to show their asthetics.

 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Coinholders-20-2x2-Flips-Adhesive-For-Gold-Silver-Coins-/280524045031?hash=item4150893ae7:g:N7EAAOSwwE5WZeWu

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3 hours ago, Peter said:

You can specify the sizes you want. Although mahogany/rosewood are the prefered timber ,why not just sandwich the coins on a glass/hardboard frame.The backing colour can be a card of your choice and a dab of glue will hold the reverse sides into place.Then add an example of each of the obverse types. Obviously I would aim for nice clear coin of each type which do not need to be BU to show their asthetics.

 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Coinholders-20-2x2-Flips-Adhesive-For-Gold-Silver-Coins-/280524045031?hash=item4150893ae7:g:N7EAAOSwwE5WZeWu

That is so obvious I did not think about just laying them side by side. When in doubt follow the KISS principle.

Keep It Simple Stupid. :D

Edited by IanB

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