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Does anyone have any tips on how to photograph coins successfully, preferably with a digital camera?

Thanks - Geoff

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I have a pretty low quality digital camera, so at this stage I always scan them, which is of course usually ok for modern milled regular shaped coins with low relief. I scan them usually at 300dpi and find I have to brighten the copper/bronze coins when they are not lustrious.

I have trouble with high relief items, like the ancient greek coins and some medals. All the basic info I have, is to get a good camera with as many mega pixels as you can and mount it on a tripod to keep it steady.

My friend Mark Rosner was fab at taking pictures of coins, and they can be seen here:

http://www.predecimal.com/forsale/choicecoins.htm

Unfortunately he is no longer with us, to share his secrets. :(

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i find that if i change the setting on my digital to superfine and

put the coin on a white surface it works fantastic :rolleyes::rolleyes::):blink:

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Does anyone have any tips on how to photograph coins successfully, preferably with a digital camera?

Thanks - Geoff

I just use a tripod faced directly down and a handheld light, with some other fixed ones. I then just move the handheld one around until I the coin is lit well, and then shoot. Photography is a popular topic on CU, with topics such as this. Do a search from the CU main page for "photography" and about eight pages popup.

Edit: Just took this one quickly using a paper tube to diffuse the light. Chris may recognise it...

German1871SiegesThaler2qw.jpg

Edited by Emperor Oli

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That's made it look like a drawing! B)

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That's made it look like a drawing! B)

Yeah it's quite heavily toned but rather reflective at the same time. I wanted to bring the colours out, but I need some more practice!

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I need to find a tripod and some daylight lights. I find holding a piece of white paper over the light to defuse it makes a big difference. Reducing the shine is a big problem but the pc is very good at restoring colour.

post-32-1137921072_thumb.jpg

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My problem is the reflection of the camera when photographing highly polished coins. I know tilting the coin or camera could prevent this, but the elongation resulting is not pleasing.

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My problem is the reflection of the camera when photographing highly polished coins. I know tilting the coin or camera could prevent this, but the elongation resulting is not pleasing.

Deffusing the light helps cut down the glare even to the point where the light level is quite low then use your software to sort it out after.

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I've tried that, but I'm not satisfied. In fact, I have a cut down plastic milk bottle as a diffuser, but the shadow of the camera remains. I'm talking about photographing, for instance, a £5 recent issue in uncirculated condition. Quite a mirror effect! :D

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My problem is the reflection of the camera when photographing highly polished coins. I know tilting the coin or camera could prevent this, but the elongation resulting is not pleasing.

Adobe Photoshop can take this elongation out. One of the better coin photographers I know of does this routinely.

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Hmm! Something to think about - maybe my next birthday??? :rolleyes:

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Here's a hint....A bloke down the pub said this software can be picked up cheaply in the Far East. :ph34r:

Tried Ebay? ;)

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That's a thought, too! I'll play with Paintshop Pro for a while and see what results I can get first. It's not that user friendly but we'll see

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That's a thought, too! I'll play with Paintshop Pro for a while and see what results I can get first. It's not that user friendly but we'll see

Paintshop Pro is a beast. Photoshop seems daunting at first but it doesn't use raster and vector layers as prominently as PSP, so I find it a lot easier. Plus PS is more powerful than PSP, give it a go!

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I'll keep you posted! B)

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Here are another few tips...

1) Use the macro-mode of your cam (do you?)

2) Shot with the max resolution of your cam

3) Select the TIFF image format (if available) or RAW

4) Use a stand and shot your coin through a paper-cone with three lights around it (on the outside)

(I use backing paper)

5) Use an external trigger or at least autodelay a few seconds. This avoids the blurring of the picture

6) Finally use Gimp (software) for free! You'll find it at www.gimp.org

I hope this will bring a bit more light in this diffuse topic

-Simon-

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