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Boomstick

Coin Storage

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Ok, found them. Bought Spinks and got a copy of Grading Britsh Coins on order, so hopefully should soon be ready to launch myself into the market armed with the relevant knowledge!

Good luck Boomstick! It never stops you know, once you get the bug

That's very true. Once it's taken hold, you're hooked for life ~ even if it appears to go away for a few years whilst busy with other things. The coins you have already collected will be there waiting for you, just as you left them, when your interest is re-awakened.

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Ok, found them. Bought Spinks and got a copy of Grading Britsh Coins on order, so hopefully should soon be ready to launch myself into the market armed with the relevant knowledge!

Word up (if you're ok with this?) :

1. Regard Spinks as merely a guide. They overestimate the values of modern coins quite severely, and underestimate others. Treat it as a 'rough and ready' guide and if youre about to take the plunge, do some more research into what your target coins are selling for.

2. A few high grade 'type' coins of Victoria beats low-grade date runs hands down, and will prove a good investment in the long run. It's always good advice to buy the highest grade you can afford, and one EF item will always trounce 5 or 6 F items, unless you're talking major rarities.

Good luck collecting!

The very cheap coin yearbook seems consistent and reliable as far as prices are concerned. In fact there might ber a slight under estimation.

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Ok, found them. Bought Spinks and got a copy of Grading Britsh Coins on order, so hopefully should soon be ready to launch myself into the market armed with the relevant knowledge!

Word up (if you're ok with this?) :

1. Regard Spinks as merely a guide. They overestimate the values of modern coins quite severely, and underestimate others. Treat it as a 'rough and ready' guide and if youre about to take the plunge, do some more research into what your target coins are selling for.

2. A few high grade 'type' coins of Victoria beats low-grade date runs hands down, and will prove a good investment in the long run. It's always good advice to buy the highest grade you can afford, and one EF item will always trounce 5 or 6 F items, unless you're talking major rarities.

Good luck collecting!

The very cheap coin yearbook seems consistent and reliable as far as prices are concerned. In fact there might ber a slight under estimation.

CCGB? Yes, I agree. And it can be purchased easily through this very site, and no, we're not on commission!

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Ok, found them. Bought Spinks and got a copy of Grading Britsh Coins on order, so hopefully should soon be ready to launch myself into the market armed with the relevant knowledge!

Word up (if you're ok with this?) :

1. Regard Spinks as merely a guide. They overestimate the values of modern coins quite severely, and underestimate others. Treat it as a 'rough and ready' guide and if youre about to take the plunge, do some more research into what your target coins are selling for.

2. A few high grade 'type' coins of Victoria beats low-grade date runs hands down, and will prove a good investment in the long run. It's always good advice to buy the highest grade you can afford, and one EF item will always trounce 5 or 6 F items, unless you're talking major rarities.

Good luck collecting!

The very cheap coin yearbook seems consistent and reliable as far as prices are concerned. In fact there might ber a slight under estimation.

CCGB? Yes, I agree. And it can be purchased easily through this very site, and no, we're not on commission!

Yes.

I'd also agree about buying the highest grade possible, unless an extreme rarity. If you don't, and you are serious about collecting, you will invariably go on to upgrade when you see a nicer coin of the same ilk. Hence the reason why many collectors have boxfuls of redundant fillers and VF/NEF/dirty examples they no longer need.

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many collectors have boxfuls of redundant fillers and VF/NEF/dirty examples

Best storage for these is white paper envelopes

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many collectors have boxfuls of redundant fillers and VF/NEF/dirty examples

Best storage for these is white paper envelopes

What, you mean ordinary bog standard postage type envelopes, David ?

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many collectors have boxfuls of redundant fillers and VF/NEF/dirty examples

Best storage for these is white paper envelopes

What, you mean ordinary bog standard postage type envelopes, David ?

Sorry, I should have said acid free 2x2s like these

David

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(er... open topic)

is a coin album a good idea for a young collector

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(er... open topic)

is a coin album a good idea for a young collector

A coin album is a good idea for any collector - but do make sure the coins are stored within non-PVC vinyl envelopes inside the album, to be on the safe side. And they are perhaps not the best idea for very valuable coins that are to be stored over a long period of time.

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Sorry to start this thread up again but I would just like to throw in a point that no one seems to have mentioned. Coins are made of metal and most metals react to the enviroment that they are in, gold being the exception. By that I mean they oxidise in the atmosphere. Somebody mentioned that a cabinet was causing his coins to oxidise, this is possibly not true as I know John Nichols uses an inert wood. Fact is, its the air that gets into the cabinet that is the problem. Most of us keep our coins at home, the humidity goes up and down, we open windows and let in fresh air, the temperature goes up and down, there are impurities in the air that we let into the house, all this affects metal! Why else do museums keep thier coin collections in Enviromentaly controlled rooms with a constant humidity (low) and temperature. In my opinion the only way to store coins is to isolate them from the atmosphere around them, good quality coin capsules or self sealing 2x2 coin holders. A tip, put the coin on the radiator to warm it up before putting it into a capsule or holder this will ensure that the coin is perfectly dry and will create a small vacum within the capsule or holder after it has cooled down.

Edited by Gary

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Somebody mentioned that a cabinet was causing his coins to oxidise, this is possibly not true as I know John Nichols uses an inert wood. Fact is, its the air that gets into the cabinet that is the problem.

It may have been me who said that. I have two types of Peter Nichols cabinet and in one the silver oxidises and in one it doesn't. What I should have said is that the design has led to the oxidising, not the cabinet wood itself. The cabinet with punched holes for the coins is fine, it's the top few trays of the other cabinet, which is a) much larger and c) has open trays with no punched holes (the coins lie loose on the felt). Clearly the air is more able to reach the coins in the second cabinet.

But the oxidising is not necessarily a major problem. Where it's caused attractive toning I will leave well alone. Where it's ugly I will try gentle washing in soap and water, and if that fails, a 5-second burst in Silver Dip.

(weird, typing a 'b' followed by a ')' - i.e. as in a list - causes a B) to appear. not a good shortcut if I may say so!)

Edited by Peckris

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But the oxidising is not necessarily a major problem. Where it's caused attractive toning I will leave well alone. Where it's ugly I will try gentle washing in soap and water, and if that fails, a 5-second burst in Silver Dip.

Usually, gently washing with soap and water does the trick with silver coins and now we are back to the subject of coin cleaning :unsure:

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i house my collection in lindner trays, the coins are kept in a stable environment and are easily accessible to look at, my bank notes are kept im first day cove albums which are made from mylar with a neutral black paper insert.

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Aye, doesn't react with the coin as do the plastic slips which leech oils slowly...

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