Removal of lacquer

[Colin G. 147]

Has anyone had any success with removing lacquer from better grade copper coins? I have a farthing in my own collection which has lacquer on it, and whilst it does not affect it's eye appeal in hand, it certainly does under a lens or when photographed. I know I am unlikely to do anything with it, but wondered whether anyone had tried and what results they had found?

[Rob 3,152]

Has anyone had any success with removing lacquer from better grade copper coins? I have a farthing in my own collection which has lacquer on it, and whilst it does not affect it's eye appeal in hand, it certainly does under a lens or when photographed. I know I am unlikely to do anything with it, but wondered whether anyone had tried and what results they had found?

I've not had much success, probably due to not knowing what type of lacquer was applied. Once the lacquer has gone off and is as hard as nails, many solvents will soften it, but will require a specific solvent to produce the best results. Depending on the lacquer, you might find that any of turps, ethanol, methanol, acetone or any other solvent may work. As there are going to be several formulations in the market place, without knowing which lacquer was used it is difficult to know the appropriate solvent.

[Colin G. 147]

Has anyone had any success with removing lacquer from better grade copper coins? I have a farthing in my own collection which has lacquer on it, and whilst it does not affect it's eye appeal in hand, it certainly does under a lens or when photographed. I know I am unlikely to do anything with it, but wondered whether anyone had tried and what results they had found?

I've not had much success, probably due to not knowing what type of lacquer was applied. Once the lacquer has gone off and is as hard as nails, many solvents will soften it, but will require a specific solvent to produce the best results. Depending on the lacquer, you might find that any of turps, ethanol, methanol, acetone or any other solvent may work. As there are going to be several formulations in the market place, without knowing which lacquer was used it is difficult to know the appropriate solvent.

That was the worry, I know my luck and whilst it is not a stunner, or the most valuable coin it is the best example I have of a scarcer variety.....so I am really hesitant...mmmm thinking time. I would feel like a criminal if I damaged one of my "precious" coins....starting to sound like Gollum now!!

[azda 979]

Has anyone had any success with removing lacquer from better grade copper coins? I have a farthing in my own collection which has lacquer on it, and whilst it does not affect it's eye appeal in hand, it certainly does under a lens or when photographed. I know I am unlikely to do anything with it, but wondered whether anyone had tried and what results they had found?

I've not had much success, probably due to not knowing what type of lacquer was applied. Once the lacquer has gone off and is as hard as nails, many solvents will soften it, but will require a specific solvent to produce the best results. Depending on the lacquer, you might find that any of turps, ethanol, methanol, acetone or any other solvent may work. As there are going to be several formulations in the market place, without knowing which lacquer was used it is difficult to know the appropriate solvent.

That was the worry, I know my luck and whilst it is not a stunner, or the most valuable coin it is the best example I have of a scarcer variety.....so I am really hesitant...mmmm thinking time. I would feel like a criminal if I damaged one of my "precious" coins....starting to sound like Gollum now!!

If you have any junk farthings Colin, or just any junk copper why not laquer one then try a few things out yourself and see what/if anything works best at removal, or else try Lindner, they sell that sort of stuff, so perhaps a remover also. Or get hold of the wifes nail polish remover, or your own and give that a go to see if it removes it. Just an idea, hopefully something might help

[Colin G. 147]

If you have any junk farthings Colin, or just any junk copper why not laquer one then try a few things out yourself and see what/if anything works best at removal, or else try Lindner, they sell that sort of stuff, so perhaps a remover also. Or get hold of the wifes nail polish remover, or your own and give that a go to see if it removes it. Just an idea, hopefully something might help

Actually I have a couple of lower grade with lacquer which I can try and test it out on.....I haven't got any nail varnish remover Dave, mine are false

[Red Riley 2]

If you have any junk farthings Colin, or just any junk copper why not laquer one then try a few things out yourself and see what/if anything works best at removal, or else try Lindner, they sell that sort of stuff, so perhaps a remover also. Or get hold of the wifes nail polish remover, or your own and give that a go to see if it removes it. Just an idea, hopefully something might help

Actually I have a couple of lower grade with lacquer which I can try and test it out on.....I haven't got any nail varnish remover Dave, mine are false

I suspect all suggestions come with caveats but I have used cellulose thinners in the past with some success, admittedly to remove PVC residue but it didn't seem to do the coin any harm.

I knew abot the eyelashes but the fingernails?

[DaveG38 408]

As Red Riley says, this comes with caveats, but the probability is that any coating put onto the surface of a coin by a careful collector, is likely to be cellulose rather than polyurethane or french polish, both of which are akin to treacle, and would scarcely enhance the look of a coin. By contrast, cellulose forms a very thin layer and doesn't yellow with age. If cellulose, then it can be removed easly with cellulose thinners, or to put it more chemically correct, xylene and toluene. Another caveat here is to make sure that any thinners you use does indeed contain xylene and toluene, as some don't, and I have no idea what the basis for their solvent propoerties is!

None of the metals or their oxides react with xylene/toluene, so the likelihood is that the patina/toning will be unaffected. What will come off is any finger grease and other assorted grot (note the technical term). The biggest problem, I suspect, is not the solvent, but the actual process of removal and the danger that it may lead to scratches etc. on the surface, so extreme care will be needed. Soaking and careful washing afterwards is probably best.

[Gollum 2]

Flamethrower 20 minutes each side.

[VickySilver 832]

Also: xylene and toluene are EXTREMELY toxic, carcinogenic, mutagenic. I would NOT play with these.

Acetone is a bit dangerous but use it frequently myself but doubt it will work (ie also the active ingredient in nail polish remover).

[Colin G. 147]

Also: xylene and toluene are EXTREMELY toxic, carcinogenic, mutagenic. I would NOT play with these.

Acetone is a bit dangerous but use it frequently myself but doubt it will work (ie also the active ingredient in nail polish remover).

I think I will leave it for a while

I may try some acetone on some of the more common coins just to see how it goes

[Peckris 579]

Also: xylene and toluene are EXTREMELY toxic, carcinogenic, mutagenic. I would NOT play with these.

Acetone is a bit dangerous but use it frequently myself but doubt it will work (ie also the active ingredient in nail polish remover).

Yes I remember "back in the day" when acetone / nail polish remover was the recommended substance.

[Red Riley 2]

Also: xylene and toluene are EXTREMELY toxic, carcinogenic, mutagenic. I would NOT play with these.

Acetone is a bit dangerous but use it frequently myself but doubt it will work (ie also the active ingredient in nail polish remover).

However, cellulose thinners was what car body shops spent their entire lives working with until comparatively recently, and as an old car buff I have used it a lot and know of a lot of other people who have too. Most of them are still around...

[Gollum 2]

Also: xylene and toluene are EXTREMELY toxic, carcinogenic, mutagenic. I would NOT play with these.

Acetone is a bit dangerous but use it frequently myself but doubt it will work (ie also the active ingredient in nail polish remover).

However, cellulose thinners was what car body shops spent their entire lives working with until comparatively recently, and as an old car buff I have used it a lot and know of a lot of other people who have too. Most of them are still around...

Meet someone who used to use it a lot including when he worked in a spray shop that painted, yes painted furniture a horrible duck egg green with it, the only mask I had given to me was one of those with a aluminum frame and cotton in it that you squeezed round the nose, I forget how many time I would sneeze green muck out of my nostrils and now the old lungs are knackered. Nasty stuff that thinners was.

[davidrj 194]

Also: xylene and toluene are EXTREMELY toxic, carcinogenic, mutagenic. I would NOT play with these.

Acetone is a bit dangerous but use it frequently myself but doubt it will work (ie also the active ingredient in nail polish remover).

Spent most of my working life (as a histologist) working with these solvents and I'm still here, and I've worked with lots of things far nastier

Wear gloves, use plastic forceps, use them outside or in a well ventilated area, avoid naked flames, and you'll be OK

NB avoid nail varnish remover, can have unknown additives, my local pharmacy sell small (50ml) bottles of pure acetone, with is ample to soak a couple of coins in.

Acetone evaporates quickly, so use a jar with a lid if you are planning on a soak rather than a quick dip

Don't know where one would buy small quantities of xylene though, I used to buy it 25 litre drums, but if you do locate some ensure it is marked "sulphur free" if you are going any where near coins.

David

[Gollum 2]

Also: xylene and toluene are EXTREMELY toxic, carcinogenic, mutagenic. I would NOT play with these.

Acetone is a bit dangerous but use it frequently myself but doubt it will work (ie also the active ingredient in nail polish remover).

Spent most of my working life (as a histologist) working with these solvents and I'm still here, and I've worked with lots of things far nastier

Wear gloves, use plastic forceps, use them outside or in a well ventilated area, avoid naked flames, and you'll be OK

NB avoid nail varnish remover, can have unknown additives, my local pharmacy sell small (50ml) bottles of pure acetone, with is ample to soak a couple of coins in.

Acetone evaporates quickly, so use a jar with a lid if you are planning on a soak rather than a quick dip

Don't know where one would buy small quantities of xylene though, I used to buy it 25 litre drums, but if you do locate some ensure it is marked "sulphur free" if you are going any where near coins.

David

I once tried to buy a small 50ml bottle of acetone from Tesco's, they wanted some ridiculous price for it, I then got a 500ml from ebay for less + postage. I am surprised it came in the post as I thought it was a banned substance to post.

[Cerbera100 0]

It probably is - but then, did the sender write on the outside "CONTAINS HIGHLY FLAMMABLE LIQUID"?! Probably not!

With regard to toluene, its great stuff - I used to make it in the lab at uni when we were bored!

I hadnt thought of using it as an 'assorted grot' remover though... where did I put that litre bottle I acquired?!

[Peckris 579]

It probably is - but then, did the sender write on the outside "CONTAINS HIGHLY FLAMMABLE LIQUID"?! Probably not!

With regard to toluene, its great stuff - I used to make it in the lab at uni when we were bored!

I hadnt thought of using it as an 'assorted grot' remover though... where did I put that litre bottle I acquired?!

Ten sticks of dynamite hanging on a wall

Ten sticks of dynamite hanging on a wall

And if one stick of dynamite should accidentally fall

There'd be no sticks of dynamite and no bleedin' wall

(Thrown out of Scout Camp, our Liverpool troop was, for singing that round the campfire).

[Coinery 1,157]

So, just to clarify...are we saying that acetone is not detrimental in the least to copper, silver, lustre, or toning? That a good long soak in the stuff is harmless? I am getting to the stage in my collecting life where I'm growing increasingly anal about the handling of coins, for fear of the greasy acids damaging the surfaces in years to come...also, when buying a new coin I wish I could totally decontaminate it of any greasy residues before sealing it up and coveting it away. Acetone could be the answer to this prayer from what you're saying????

[azda 979]

So, just to clarify...are we saying that acetone is not detrimental in the least to copper, silver, lustre, or toning? That a good long soak in the stuff is harmless? I am getting to the stage in my collecting life where I'm growing increasingly anal about the handling of coins, for fear of the greasy acids damaging the surfaces in years to come...also, when buying a new coin I wish I could totally decontaminate it of any greasy residues before sealing it up and coveting it away. Acetone could be the answer to this prayer from what you're saying????

Little white gloves also help when handling, i also have an ultrasonic cleaner

[azda 979]

It probably is - but then, did the sender write on the outside "CONTAINS HIGHLY FLAMMABLE LIQUID"?! Probably not!

With regard to toluene, its great stuff - I used to make it in the lab at uni when we were bored!

I hadnt thought of using it as an 'assorted grot' remover though... where did I put that litre bottle I acquired?!

Ten sticks of dynamite hanging on a wall

Ten sticks of dynamite hanging on a wall

And if one stick of dynamite should accidentally fall

There'd be no sticks of dynamite and no bleedin' wall

(Thrown out of Scout Camp, our Liverpool troop was, for singing that round the campfire).

Try the campfire with the French Foreign Legion

[Gollum 2]

It probably is - but then, did the sender write on the outside "CONTAINS HIGHLY FLAMMABLE LIQUID"?! Probably not!

With regard to toluene, its great stuff - I used to make it in the lab at uni when we were bored!

I hadnt thought of using it as an 'assorted grot' remover though... where did I put that litre bottle I acquired?!

Ten sticks of dynamite hanging on a wall

Ten sticks of dynamite hanging on a wall

And if one stick of dynamite should accidentally fall

There'd be no sticks of dynamite and no bleedin' wall

(Thrown out of Scout Camp, our Liverpool troop was, for singing that round the campfire).

Try the campfire with the French Foreign Legion

you going to start singing Le Boudin for us then Az ?.

[Coinery 1,157]

OK, so what's an ultrasonic cleaner? Any links? Also, what about the acetone? Will need to get the crud off before worrying about gloves!