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Mongo

Could I get a quick grade opinion please?

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Could I get a quick opinion on the grade of this obverse please? It is of a low tide, I thought it might be a nice coin to have until I can afford better. It looks nicer than the usual low grades on ebay. Also is that a spot of verdigris by the neck?

It is difficult for me, as the picture seems to be blurred and "jumped" near the IND.

Thanks guys :)

1902lowtide.jpg

Edited by Mongo

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Could I get a quick opinion on the grade of this obverse please? It is of a low tide, I thought it might be a nice coin to have until I can afford better. It looks nicer than the usual low grades on ebay. Also is that a spot of verdigris by the neck?

It is difficult for me, as the picture seems to be blurred and "jumped" near the IND.

Thanks guys :)

1902lowtide.jpg

GF - NVF in my inexpert opinion, and I think it's a spot of verd yes :(

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Could I get a quick opinion on the grade of this obverse please? It is of a low tide, I thought it might be a nice coin to have until I can afford better. It looks nicer than the usual low grades on ebay. Also is that a spot of verdigris by the neck?

It is difficult for me, as the picture seems to be blurred or "jumped".

Thanks guys :)

1902lowtide.jpg

Learn to be patient. Low tides are not virtually unobtainable, something which might be a valid reason for buying below your normal requirements. You have already said you want it until you can afford better, but money not spent today on that coin can be more usefully spent on something you won't want to upgrade. God, I'm a crap salesman.

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Could I get a quick opinion on the grade of this obverse please? It is of a low tide, I thought it might be a nice coin to have until I can afford better. It looks nicer than the usual low grades on ebay. Also is that a spot of verdigris by the neck?

It is difficult for me, as the picture seems to be blurred and "jumped" near the IND.

Thanks guys :)

Not the easiest coin to grade and the picture really doesn't help. The ear is around VF but the rest of the head looks rather featureless - could be a weak strike or just a lousy photo! And has it been cleaned? If I were buying I would take a stab at GF, knock a bit off for the (potential) cleaning and verdigris and offer accordingly. The verdigris probably won't appear so obvious on the actual coin but you never know...

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Thanks Guys... that WAS quick! I love this forum :)

I think I will take your advice Rob and wait until I can afford a better example. Now that it has been confirmed as verd on the coin, that has made my mind up for me, I do not want it passing on its desease to my other coins!

On a similar subject, how do you tell the difference between the green verd and the other green coloured spots that can be found on bronze? :blink:

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I would say (judging from the picture) it's certainly VF for wear, but less if you calculate in the other flaws. There is very little wear on the legend which makes me think "VF", but I'd want to see the reverse before fully committing.

Green is often verdigris, which is matt and rough in texture. Similar, but glossy and enduring, is the overall green you see when a penny has been buried in the ground for quite a time. This can be called a sort of patina and you will never remove it, but sometimes it adds to the character of a coin, though vastly reducing its value. Occasionally green patches can be caused by staining of one type or another.

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I would say (judging from the picture) it's certainly VF for wear, but less if you calculate in the other flaws. There is very little wear on the legend which makes me think "VF", but I'd want to see the reverse before fully committing.

Green is often verdigris, which is matt and rough in texture. Similar, but glossy and enduring, is the overall green you see when a penny has been buried in the ground for quite a time. This can be called a sort of patina and you will never remove it, but sometimes it adds to the character of a coin, though vastly reducing its value. Occasionally green patches can be caused by staining of one type or another.

Thanks, that is very helpful Peck.

I have been dismissing coins that I otherwise really like recently, because I thought anything green was verd! It is only since I read an article yesterday, about halting the damage, that I realised green spots are not always verd.

I think the best thing for me to do, until I learn to tell the difference myself, is to check with you guys before parting with my money. I am glad I did with this coin now!

I just hope you do not get bored with all my newb questions, as I am sure there will be many more! :)

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I would say (judging from the picture) it's certainly VF for wear, but less if you calculate in the other flaws. There is very little wear on the legend which makes me think "VF", but I'd want to see the reverse before fully committing.

Green is often verdigris, which is matt and rough in texture. Similar, but glossy and enduring, is the overall green you see when a penny has been buried in the ground for quite a time. This can be called a sort of patina and you will never remove it, but sometimes it adds to the character of a coin, though vastly reducing its value. Occasionally green patches can be caused by staining of one type or another.

Thanks, that is very helpful Peck.

I have been dismissing coins that I otherwise really like recently, because I thought anything green was verd! It is only since I read an article yesterday, about halting the damage, that I realised green spots are not always verd.

I think the best thing for me to do, until I learn to tell the difference myself, is to check with you guys before parting with my money. I am glad I did with this coin now!

I just hope you do not get bored with all my newb questions, as I am sure there will be many more! :)

We wouldn't necessarily know from a picture whether it's V or staining. The best thing, if in doubt, is contact the seller and mention there's a green patch, and what is it?

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I would say (judging from the picture) it's certainly VF for wear, but less if you calculate in the other flaws. There is very little wear on the legend which makes me think "VF", but I'd want to see the reverse before fully committing.

Green is often verdigris, which is matt and rough in texture. Similar, but glossy and enduring, is the overall green you see when a penny has been buried in the ground for quite a time. This can be called a sort of patina and you will never remove it, but sometimes it adds to the character of a coin, though vastly reducing its value. Occasionally green patches can be caused by staining of one type or another.

Thanks, that is very helpful Peck.

I have been dismissing coins that I otherwise really like recently, because I thought anything green was verd! It is only since I read an article yesterday, about halting the damage, that I realised green spots are not always verd.

I think the best thing for me to do, until I learn to tell the difference myself, is to check with you guys before parting with my money. I am glad I did with this coin now!

I just hope you do not get bored with all my newb questions, as I am sure there will be many more! :)

We wouldn't necessarily know from a picture whether it's V or staining. The best thing, if in doubt, is contact the seller and mention there's a green patch, and what is it?

That sounds like a plan too.

I am starting to lean towards just buying my coins from the guys on the forum, and other places recommended by yourselves. At least that way I know what I see is what I get, and defects are always honestly mentioned.

Then when I have the confidence, I can shop around a bit more.

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I would say (judging from the picture) it's certainly VF for wear, but less if you calculate in the other flaws. There is very little wear on the legend which makes me think "VF", but I'd want to see the reverse before fully committing.

Green is often verdigris, which is matt and rough in texture. Similar, but glossy and enduring, is the overall green you see when a penny has been buried in the ground for quite a time. This can be called a sort of patina and you will never remove it, but sometimes it adds to the character of a coin, though vastly reducing its value. Occasionally green patches can be caused by staining of one type or another.

Thanks, that is very helpful Peck.

I have been dismissing coins that I otherwise really like recently, because I thought anything green was verd! It is only since I read an article yesterday, about halting the damage, that I realised green spots are not always verd.

I think the best thing for me to do, until I learn to tell the difference myself, is to check with you guys before parting with my money. I am glad I did with this coin now!

I just hope you do not get bored with all my newb questions, as I am sure there will be many more! :)

We wouldn't necessarily know from a picture whether it's V or staining. The best thing, if in doubt, is contact the seller and mention there's a green patch, and what is it?

That sounds like a plan too.

I am starting to lean towards just buying my coins from the guys on the forum, and other places recommended by yourselves. At least that way I know what I see is what I get, and defects are always honestly mentioned.

Then when I have the confidence, I can shop around a bit more.

In my 8 months rollercoaster of more serious collecting I have come to the same conclusion Mongo, you are unlikely to get a bargain, true, but very unlikely to get ripped off, and most will be happy to offer a no quibble return policy ... bargains still to be had on the bay if you put in the time and don't risk too much wonga! You already know more than a lot of eBayers about grades and values, and that will just get better and better, so a good place to be! :)

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I would say (judging from the picture) it's certainly VF for wear, but less if you calculate in the other flaws. There is very little wear on the legend which makes me think "VF", but I'd want to see the reverse before fully committing.

Green is often verdigris, which is matt and rough in texture. Similar, but glossy and enduring, is the overall green you see when a penny has been buried in the ground for quite a time. This can be called a sort of patina and you will never remove it, but sometimes it adds to the character of a coin, though vastly reducing its value. Occasionally green patches can be caused by staining of one type or another.

Thanks, that is very helpful Peck.

I have been dismissing coins that I otherwise really like recently, because I thought anything green was verd! It is only since I read an article yesterday, about halting the damage, that I realised green spots are not always verd.

I think the best thing for me to do, until I learn to tell the difference myself, is to check with you guys before parting with my money. I am glad I did with this coin now!

I just hope you do not get bored with all my newb questions, as I am sure there will be many more! :)

We wouldn't necessarily know from a picture whether it's V or staining. The best thing, if in doubt, is contact the seller and mention there's a green patch, and what is it?

That sounds like a plan too.

I am starting to lean towards just buying my coins from the guys on the forum, and other places recommended by yourselves. At least that way I know what I see is what I get, and defects are always honestly mentioned.

Then when I have the confidence, I can shop around a bit more.

In my 8 months rollercoaster of more serious collecting I have come to the same conclusion Mongo, you are unlikely to get a bargain, true, but very unlikely to get ripped off, and most will be happy to offer a no quibble return policy ... bargains still to be had on the bay if you put in the time and don't risk too much wonga! You already know more than a lot of eBayers about grades and values, and that will just get better and better, so a good place to be! :)

Your right Paul, every single coin I have purchased from those on this forum so far has been spot on, and I have yet to be dissapointed.

I think I will give myself a limit for ebay coins, of a tenner max, that way I can either lose a few quid or grab a bargain!

I have more fun "shop hopping" dealers sites, than I do browsing through all the crap on ebay anyway. The fact you can come here and communicate with your "suppliers" is also a big plus, I think that is very nice :)

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It has been said before but I will repeat it.Buy the best you can.A £10 gamble on Ebay is good fun.You will pick up a few bargains but it is a jungle out there.Learn your subject (and that means books,internet advice) I have bought many a coin on Ebay but I have a limit.Know your top price and enjoy. :) My didn't win on Ebay is much larger than won.I also have favoured dealers who I will use again and again.Be prepared to pay too much.Get yourself to a proper fair (Midland,London,Wakefield,York,Harrogate)Go with a few £ and you will find something nice.I have bought some really nice stuff.Patience and know your subject. :)

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You never mentioned how much the 1902 Low Tide was before everyone started commenting, sooooooo, how much?

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You never mentioned how much the 1902 Low Tide was before everyone started commenting, sooooooo, how much?

It ended up going for just over £8 azda, that is about what I was planning on paying for it, just to have an example of a low tide penny. That 8 quid can go in a pot... then when I have done that a few times, I can get a BUNC!

I just had another look at my ebay watch list, and realised the auction had finished before I posted the picture! :lol: I got the picture via email, as there was no obverse in the listing orginally. Seems one was added towards the end though.

Sorry for wasting your time guys.

Edited by Mongo

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TBH £8 was'nt a bad price, but it does have verd and is lower Grade. Savet that £810 times any you might get an EF for that Money.

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TBH £8 was'nt a bad price, but it does have verd and is lower Grade. Savet that £810 times any you might get an EF for that Money.

Therein lies both the problem and the advantage. In middle grades you are spoilt for choice about the problem but can usually pick up a cheap example of most things. Obviously, in most cases it will just be wear but in this case it was verd too. If not happy with a problem, leave the coin and move on. It's always better to buy something where you wouldn't have any intention of upgrading. Do that a few times and magically you find you have enough for a coin that's a grade up on what you intended to spend originally. :)

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TBH £8 was'nt a bad price, but it does have verd and is lower Grade. Savet that £810 times any you might get an EF for that Money.

Therein lies both the problem and the advantage. In middle grades you are spoilt for choice about the problem but can usually pick up a cheap example of most things. Obviously, in most cases it will just be wear but in this case it was verd too. If not happy with a problem, leave the coin and move on. It's always better to buy something where you wouldn't have any intention of upgrading. Do that a few times and magically you find you have enough for a coin that's a grade up on what you intended to spend originally. :)

Buying middle grade coins can actually be quite rewarding but what you MUST do, is ensure you buy problem free coins - no edge knocks, good patina, uncleaned etc. etc. That way, the coins will be easy to sell on, and who knows you might like a coin so much that you decide to keep it long term.

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It has been said before but I will repeat it.Buy the best you can.A £10 gamble on Ebay is good fun.You will pick up a few bargains but it is a jungle out there.Learn your subject (and that means books,internet advice) I have bought many a coin on Ebay but I have a limit.Know your top price and enjoy. :) My didn't win on Ebay is much larger than won.I also have favoured dealers who I will use again and again.Be prepared to pay too much.Get yourself to a proper fair (Midland,London,Wakefield,York,Harrogate)Go with a few £ and you will find something nice.I have bought some really nice stuff.Patience and know your subject. :)

Yes, if you can get to a fair, you achieve several objectives - meet and get to know different dealers (and they get to know you), see a good selection of coins, get good advice, and probably pick up a few bargains too.

TBH £8 was'nt a bad price, but it does have verd and is lower Grade. Savet that £810 times any you might get an EF for that Money.

I should say so - £810 will get you a 1902 LT proof :lol:

TBH £8 was'nt a bad price, but it does have verd and is lower Grade. Savet that £810 times any you might get an EF for that Money.

Therein lies both the problem and the advantage. In middle grades you are spoilt for choice about the problem but can usually pick up a cheap example of most things. Obviously, in most cases it will just be wear but in this case it was verd too. If not happy with a problem, leave the coin and move on. It's always better to buy something where you wouldn't have any intention of upgrading. Do that a few times and magically you find you have enough for a coin that's a grade up on what you intended to spend originally. :)

Buying middle grade coins can actually be quite rewarding but what you MUST do, is ensure you buy problem free coins - no edge knocks, good patina, uncleaned etc. etc. That way, the coins will be easy to sell on, and who knows you might like a coin so much that you decide to keep it long term.

I agree. Middle grades can often be good value. And a GVF with lovely tone and no flaws beats an EF or GEF with bits of patchy lustre and uneven tone, IMO. I once had a superb GVF 1902 penny with even dark tone and wonderful hair detail. I wish I'd kept it even though I now have a BU.

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That was meant to read £8 ten times

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That was meant to read £8 ten times

I know, I just couldn't resist :P

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Between fine and unc is my guess :D

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