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NewShillingCollector

1850 /46 Victoria Shilling NGC Encapsulated

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this pic is 61kb.

I have had a quick look at some 1846 shillings and at a quick glance all seem to have the 6 lower than the 4 this would put the digit under the 0 of the 1850 too high to be a six. Like I said a quick look and have to look at some 1849 and 50's if I can find any pics!

Here is the link for the images. Please note that we will still provide a link when we have the clearer picture.

The password is predecimal (all lower case).

http://www.photobucket.com/185046

Here is an 1846, 1849 and an 1850 we found. Also put in photobucket. Thanks!!!

***For Comparing our 1850/46 ...PICS of 1846, 1849, and 1850 "Plain" Dates***

post-7573-044872300 1345605172_thumb.jpg

post-7573-077570300 1345604835_thumb.jpg

post-7573-073259300 1345604803_thumb.jpg

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this pic is 61kb.

***For Comparing our 1850/46 ...PICS of 1846, 1849, and 1850 "Plain" Dates***

post-7573-044872300 1345605172_thumb.jpg

post-7573-077570300 1345604835_thumb.jpg

post-7573-073259300 1345604803_thumb.jpg

sorry but they are way too small to do anything with. The 1850 pic is 121x48 pixels and just 6kb of data. You have obviously cut the dates out of an existing pic which in its self must have been quite small.

To have anything workable then the date pics have to be at least 500 pixels in width. If you are using a camera use the largest pic setting and get it as close to the coin as poss, if you are scanning use the highest resolution setting to

obtain the largest pic possible and then cut the dates outs into a seperate pic. In any photo editing software you have an option to save as .jpeg which will tell you the size of the saved file and allow you to compress

it to a given data size ie 150kb. If the quality of the pic is reduced too much by the compression then reduce the size of the original pic (usually under "Image" and then "Size" or "Resize"), say the original is 1000x500 pixels then reduce it to 500x250 this way you reduce the data size by half (not quite true but good enough) and then save as .jpeg.

Example- The pic of the 1850 shilling from azda above is 1024x1009 pixels and has a file size of 372kb and I bet he has reduced that before posting it.

Edited by Gary

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Ahhh Sorry Stuart. Here in Germany we get massages on the NHS. I have a problem with my neck and spine, normally the discs are 10mm apart, mine are only 5mm due to working at the airport at one time throwing 20 kilo suitcases into the hold and very little room to do it. So now i get massages to try and stretch the 5 & 6 neck disc.

I did try the Chinese guy to though, he was much better but cost €35 for 30 mins which was'nt on the NHS unfortunately and he kept sticking needles in me

You should have phoned MP David, I'm sure he would have stuck needles in you for free!

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I think he has a doll figure of me somewhere John as he's changed his eBay name again ;)

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this pic is 61kb.

***For Comparing our 1850/46 ...PICS of 1846, 1849, and 1850 "Plain" Dates***

post-7573-044872300 1345605172_thumb.jpg

post-7573-077570300 1345604835_thumb.jpg

post-7573-073259300 1345604803_thumb.jpg

sorry but they are way too small to do anything with. The 1850 pic is 121x48 pixels and just 6kb of data. You have obviously cut the dates out of an existing pic which in its self must have been quite small.

To have anything workable then the date pics have to be at least 500 pixels in width. If you are using a camera use the largest pic setting and get it as close to the coin as poss, if you are scanning use the highest resolution setting to

obtain the largest pic possible and then cut the dates outs into a seperate pic. In any photo editing software you have an option to save as .jpeg which will tell you the size of the saved file and allow you to compress

it to a given data size ie 150kb. If the quality of the pic is reduced too much by the compression then reduce the size of the original pic (usually under "Image" and then "Size" or "Resize"), say the original is 1000x500 pixels then reduce it to 500x250 this way you reduce the data size by half (not quite true but good enough) and then save as .jpeg.

Example- The pic of the 1850 shilling from azda above is 1024x1009 pixels and has a file size of 372kb and I bet he has reduced that before posting it.

Photoshop's compression scale runs from 1 (awful) to 12 (virtually uncompressed). Needless to say, the smaller the number, the higher the compression and the smaller the file. In my own experience, if you're displaying on a computer screen - i.e. not printing - you can reduce an existing large picture to 5 on the scale without seeing very much in the way of deterioration. Make sure that you do any Size reduction and PPI reduction and Cropping at the same time, then save.

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this pic is 61kb.

***For Comparing our 1850/46 ...PICS of 1846, 1849, and 1850 "Plain" Dates***

post-7573-044872300 1345605172_thumb.jpg

post-7573-077570300 1345604835_thumb.jpg

post-7573-073259300 1345604803_thumb.jpg

Good Morning!

Thanks for the upload info, appreciate it. Yes, found these online and now know they are too small. Did you check photobucket? Assume same issue there.

We will just wait for our new magnifier and post ours a

ASAP. I guess we need to start a new topic? Cannot seem to locate where we can add to our original post.

Also, as an FYI, we the dates using yahoo..com, and searching "date shilling".

Have a great day!

sorry but they are way too small to do anything with. The 1850 pic is 121x48 pixels and just 6kb of data. You have obviously cut the dates out of an existing pic which in its self must have been quite small.

To have anything workable then the date pics have to be at least 500 pixels in width. If you are using a camera use the largest pic setting and get it as close to the coin as poss, if you are scanning use the highest resolution setting to

obtain the largest pic possible and then cut the dates outs into a seperate pic. In any photo editing software you have an option to save as .jpeg which will tell you the size of the saved file and allow you to compress

it to a given data size ie 150kb. If the quality of the pic is reduced too much by the compression then reduce the size of the original pic (usually under "Image" and then "Size" or "Resize"), say the original is 1000x500 pixels then reduce it to 500x250 this way you reduce the data size by half (not quite true but good enough) and then save as .jpeg.

Example- The pic of the 1850 shilling from azda above is 1024x1009 pixels and has a file size of 372kb and I bet he has reduced that before posting it.

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Hey dudes, what's going on? Patchouli is still a hippie fragrance of choice, I think it's amazing!

It's still very much used, blended with sweet almond oil, as a slippery soup to rub all over your beloved in the loving hours! Rumour did have it, Dave, that you were yourself partaking in said slippery rubdown, pre your image post!

I think I might just have to join a circus, nobody gets my humour on here! :D

Remember it well. For reasons best known to her, a girl I worked with dumped some in my umbrella. Used to get very strange looks when it rained...

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If you are using a camera use the largest pic setting and get it as close to the coin as poss, if you are scanning use the highest resolution setting to

obtain the largest pic possible and then cut the dates outs into a seperate pic. In any photo editing software you have an option to save as .jpeg which will tell you the size of the saved file and allow you to compress

it to a given data size ie 150kb. If the quality of the pic is reduced too much by the compression then reduce the size of the original pic (usually under "Image" and then "Size" or "Resize"), say the original is 1000x500 pixels then reduce it to 500x250 this way you reduce the data size by half (not quite true but good enough) and then save as .jpeg.

Example- The pic of the 1850 shilling from azda above is 1024x1009 pixels and has a file size of 372kb and I bet he has reduced that before posting it.

Photoshop's compression scale runs from 1 (awful) to 12 (virtually uncompressed). Needless to say, the smaller the number, the higher the compression and the smaller the file. In my own experience, if you're displaying on a computer screen - i.e. not printing - you can reduce an existing large picture to 5 on the scale without seeing very much in the way of deterioration. Make sure that you do any Size reduction and PPI reduction and Cropping at the same time, then save.

Refuse to pay that sort of money for Photoshop, I use a free program called paint.net which I believe comes from micrsoft, when you save to .jpeg it gives you a sliding scale from 100% down to 0% and shows you the file size as you adjust. It also has many functions of expensive programs such as the ability to work with layers and much more. If anyones interested you can get it here paint.net

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Hey dudes, what's going on? Patchouli is still a hippie fragrance of choice, I think it's amazing!

It's still very much used, blended with sweet almond oil, as a slippery soup to rub all over your beloved in the loving hours! Rumour did have it, Dave, that you were yourself partaking in said slippery rubdown, pre your image post!

I think I might just have to join a circus, nobody gets my humour on here! :D

Remember it well. For reasons best known to her, a girl I worked with dumped some in my umbrella. Used to get very strange looks when it rained...

Bus stop bus stop, she's there waiting, under my umbrella...

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If you are using a camera use the largest pic setting and get it as close to the coin as poss, if you are scanning use the highest resolution setting to

obtain the largest pic possible and then cut the dates outs into a seperate pic. In any photo editing software you have an option to save as .jpeg which will tell you the size of the saved file and allow you to compress

it to a given data size ie 150kb. If the quality of the pic is reduced too much by the compression then reduce the size of the original pic (usually under "Image" and then "Size" or "Resize"), say the original is 1000x500 pixels then reduce it to 500x250 this way you reduce the data size by half (not quite true but good enough) and then save as .jpeg.

Example- The pic of the 1850 shilling from azda above is 1024x1009 pixels and has a file size of 372kb and I bet he has reduced that before posting it.

Photoshop's compression scale runs from 1 (awful) to 12 (virtually uncompressed). Needless to say, the smaller the number, the higher the compression and the smaller the file. In my own experience, if you're displaying on a computer screen - i.e. not printing - you can reduce an existing large picture to 5 on the scale without seeing very much in the way of deterioration. Make sure that you do any Size reduction and PPI reduction and Cropping at the same time, then save.

Refuse to pay that sort of money for Photoshop, I use a free program called paint.net which I believe comes from micrsoft, when you save to .jpeg it gives you a sliding scale from 100% down to 0% and shows you the file size as you adjust. It also has many functions of expensive programs such as the ability to work with layers and much more. If anyones interested you can get it here paint.net

Actually, Photoshop Elements can do a whole load of stuff, but only costs a fraction of the full Photoshop. About 80% of the program for less than 20% of the cost. Also, Elements is cross-platform, which I suspect paint.net is not. For Mac users, there's Pixelmator, which supports layers and filters and text and a whole lot more, looks gorgeous, and only costs around £20. The GIMP is a nightmare to learn but it's free and open source and just as powerful as Photoshop.

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Not superclear image. IMO the overdate will not exceed greatly the value of non-overdate be it 50/49 or possibly 50/46. I think faint "overage" of Victorian smaller silver much more common overall than commonly supposed.

Still, any 1850 shilling commands a bit of respect. An American slab grade of 35 is supposed to be an higher level of VF, not VG.

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You never mentioned the NGC grade, although American TPGs are a little less strict than UKs grading service.

You can use photobucket to Upload your pictures and post the links in you reply.

Please see the following new topic. We magnified and posted two good pics on the post and also provided a link to photobucket with 21 pictures!:

1850 /46 Victoria Shilling Part 2 Follow-Up PICS Follow-Up To First Post--With Pics

and/or

http://photobucket.com/185046_USBmagnifier

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Since we are new, is the upload limit per picture or is it an overall per account?

The limit of 150kb is overall. One pic of 150kb or two of 75kb.

From the pic you have already posted the 4 can be clearly be seen under the 5. Wether it is a 6 under the 0 or not is hard to tell, could just be a recut 0 as the 8 also seems to be recut or doubled.

As to a value I am sure someone here with his vast library of auction catalogs will be able to come up with something :)

Look forward to the close up pics.

For Info,

Rayner lists 1850 over 49 but not over 46

Davies lists 1850 over 46 but not over 49

Coincraft lists 1850 over 46 or 49

Spink 1850 over 49

hmmmm!

Please see the following new topic. We magnified and posted two good pics on the post and also provided a link to photobucket with 21 pictures!:

1850 /46 Victoria Shilling Part 2 Follow-Up PICS Follow-Up To First Post--With Pics

and/or

http://photobucket.com/185046_USBmagnifier

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If you can edit a super-enlargement of the date area only, and upload it as a medium quality JPEG, it should come within the 150k limit. Agreed, the upload limit per post is mean in the extreme, but you'd be surprised how big a picture you can post if you use an image editor to increase the compression of a JPEG. Do remember that the resolution only needs to be 72 (ppi) for viewing on a computer screen.

Many of us would be interested to examine the date closely. However, as you're probably aware, it is often very difficult to get widespread agreement on overdates unless they are immediately obvious. Having said that, I'd trust Rayner over Spink anyday.

Please see the following new topic. We magnified and posted two good pics on the post and also provided a link to photobucket with 21 pictures!:

1850 /46 Victoria Shilling Part 2 Follow-Up PICS Follow-Up To First Post--With Pics

and/or

http://photobucket.com/185046_USBmagnifier

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For larger photos I suggest a photohosting site like flickr or photobucket.

Then you just add a link to the photo and it will come up as large as you want as there seem to be no limit.

Either use the 'insert image' button above or I know photobucket creates such a link for you.

Please see the following new topic. We magnified and posted two good pics on the post and also provided a link to photobucket with 21 pictures!:

1850 /46 Victoria Shilling Part 2 Follow-Up PICS Follow-Up To First Post--With Pics

and/or

http://photobucket.com/185046_USBmagnifier

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Patchouii? Whats that?

It's an "erb".mannnn.

If you like Oriental/Asian food you've had some.

Please see the following new topic. We magnified and posted two good pics on the post and also provided a link to photobucket with 21 pictures!:

1850 /46 Victoria Shilling Part 2 Follow-Up PICS Follow-Up To First Post--With Pics

and/or

http://photobucket.com/185046_USBmagnifier

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Patchouii? Whats that?

It's an "erb".mannnn.

If you like Oriental/Asian food you've had some.

Please see the following new topic. We magnified and posted two good pics on the post and also provided a link to photobucket with 21 pictures!:

1850 /46 Victoria Shilling Part 2 Follow-Up PICS Follow-Up To First Post--With Pics

and/or

http://photobucket.com/185046_USBmagnifier

I had a good long look at the largest 'blow up' (of the 50). The 5 is indisputably cut over a 4, but the 0 is a puzzle. It seems rather 'heavy' on its left hand side, as if it was compensating for something underlying on that side. That would make more sense if it was a 9, as extra work would be more needed on the left, whereas a 6 would need more work on the right hand side. But that's mere speculation - it doesn't appear at all easy to tell what the underlying digit is.

I don't suppose you have a good blow up of a known 1850/49 to compare it with?

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Patchouii? Whats that?

It's an "erb".mannnn.

If you like Oriental/Asian food you've had some.

Please see the following new topic. We magnified and posted two good pics on the post and also provided a link to photobucket with 21 pictures!:

1850 /46 Victoria Shilling Part 2 Follow-Up PICS Follow-Up To First Post--With Pics

and/or

http://photobucket.com/185046_USBmagnifier

I had a good long look at the largest 'blow up' (of the 50). The 5 is indisputably cut over a 4, but the 0 is a puzzle. It seems rather 'heavy' on its left hand side, as if it was compensating for something underlying on that side. That would make more sense if it was a 9, as extra work would be more needed on the left, whereas a 6 would need more work on the right hand side. But that's mere speculation - it doesn't appear at all easy to tell what the underlying digit is.

I don't suppose you have a good blow up of a known 1850/49 to compare it with?

I sure wish that we could find a known 1850/49 or even an 1850/46 to compare it to!

Based on your input, we did compare it to an 18x6 and an 18x9 to compare the 6 and the 9. Our thought (and possibly the graders?) were along the same as yours.

What are your thoughts on this: the heavy, ''thick/wider'' left side would indicate an underlying 6 rather than a 9?? When looking at the two numbers on the "control" coins and their shapes, a 6 would go along the entire left side, causing a thicker left side from top to bottom. And a 6 would really not thicken the right side per se, due to its shape and also the bottom of the six is about the same "width/shape" as the bottom of a zero.

Whereas the 9 would do basically the opposite: thicker right and partial thickness on left???????

What do you think??

Looking forward to your reply!

Thanks!!!

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Patchouii? Whats that?

It's an "erb".mannnn.

If you like Oriental/Asian food you've had some.

Please see the following new topic. We magnified and posted two good pics on the post and also provided a link to photobucket with 21 pictures!:

1850 /46 Victoria Shilling Part 2 Follow-Up PICS Follow-Up To First Post--With Pics

and/or

http://photobucket.com/185046_USBmagnifier

I had a good long look at the largest 'blow up' (of the 50). The 5 is indisputably cut over a 4, but the 0 is a puzzle. It seems rather 'heavy' on its left hand side, as if it was compensating for something underlying on that side. That would make more sense if it was a 9, as extra work would be more needed on the left, whereas a 6 would need more work on the right hand side. But that's mere speculation - it doesn't appear at all easy to tell what the underlying digit is.

I don't suppose you have a good blow up of a known 1850/49 to compare it with?

I sure wish that we could find a known 1850/49 or even an 1850/46 to compare it to!

Based on your input, we did compare it to an 18x6 and an 18x9 to compare the 6 and the 9. Our thought (and possibly the graders?) were along the same as yours.

What are your thoughts on this: the heavy, ''thick/wider'' left side would indicate an underlying 6 rather than a 9?? When looking at the two numbers on the "control" coins and their shapes, a 6 would go along the entire left side, causing a thicker left side from top to bottom. And a 6 would really not thicken the right side per se, due to its shape and also the bottom of the six is about the same "width/shape" as the bottom of a zero.

Whereas the 9 would do basically the opposite: thicker right and partial thickness on left???????

What do you think??

Looking forward to your reply!

Thanks!!!

Have a look here : http://www.londoncoins.co.uk/webcatalogue/131/L1743r.jpg

That shows that the left hand side of the 6 on an 1846 shilling is virtually completely usable as the left hand side of a 0, with no further alteration needed. But the right hand side would need quite a bit of work. I would guess the reverse is true for a 9?

The intriguing thing about your close-up shot, is that there appears to be a ghost in the middle of the 0, showing faint lines that correspond not only to the bottom of the loop of a 9, but also the top of the loop of a 6 ! I'd say the jury is still out...

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I'm actually going with the 50/49 verdict. I've uploaded 2 seperate date cut outs from different coins date 50/49 and can see no differences between these and yours with the thickness of the 0. Another thing i do want to clear uop. If you take a look in the FREE FOR ALL section of this forum and under EBAY LAUGHS there you will see a glaring error by NGC of a common coin that they've slabbed as a High Tide Penny

American TPGs hold no water for me at all. To get confirmation of a yes or no of your date i'd send it to CGS in the UK, but i'm afraid i'm in the 1850/49 camp

1850over49date2.jpg

1850over49date.jpg

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That would seem to be a (small) consensus then - in favour of the 1850/49. It's very hard to tell, but a 50 over 49 makes much more logical and business sense than 50 over 46. That's my (our) four penn'orth anyway.

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I reckon that the best way to tell whether it's 1850 over 49 or 46 is to look at the remnants of the 4 under the 5. All 1849's that I have seen have a plain 4 with a short tail, whereas all 1846's have a longer tail with a large serif. Therefore for a 1850/46, there should be some sign of the serif poking out behind the curve of the 5, which I think I can see on the 1st picture that Dave posted.

Edited by Nick

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I'm actually going with the 50/49 verdict. I've uploaded 2 seperate date cut outs from different coins date 50/49 and can see no differences between these and yours with the thickness of the 0. Another thing i do want to clear uop. If you take a look in the FREE FOR ALL section of this forum and under EBAY LAUGHS there you will see a glaring error by NGC of a common coin that they've slabbed as a High Tide Penny

American TPGs hold no water for me at all. To get confirmation of a yes or no of your date i'd send it to CGS in the UK, but i'm afraid i'm in the 1850/49 camp

1850over49date2.jpg

1850over49date.jpg

There is also a thread on here, highlighting a major American TPGC's slab with the wrong denomination on it...no water for me either!

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We actually contacted CGS,UK numerous times but never received a reply. Will try again this weekend.

You'd have to submit it like you would with any other TPG. They just can't answer on the strength of a picture, they'd have to have the coin in hand for identification

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