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The people i used were Wardrop & Co ltd (Lloyds) from Colchester, member of FSA, found them very easy to talk to and very helpfull.

Tel no 01376 563764. They will cover you when transporting collections as well as within safe storage.

That's interesting to know as my collection is largely complete and I was thinking of banking it rather than spend £500 on insurance, you can buy a couple of good coins for that.

Can you explain that a little more please!

I'm just upgrading really now, all the major obtainable holes are filled. Really just things like the 1935 gold crown, the old 1920's cupro nickel bits, unconfirmed varieties ect which I don't expect to find for prices I can afford. I intend to sell my collection in about 7 years time and paying £500 a year for the next 7 year so that it can stand in the corner of my living room. I can think of better things to spend my money on.

The whole point of having a valuable collection in the bank and having it insured is so that its not sat in your front room waiting for burglars!!

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Insurance premiums should roughly halve with them being in the bank. i.e about 0.25% of sum insured.

Yes Rob thats the about cost from "Waldrop" which i thought was quite reasonable, it also includes transporting collection, and up to 30days at home.

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And complete collection! Wonderful! Well, most of the rest of us can only hope one day. I fear that the endpoint changes along our collecting paths, never quite gettiing there....

Complete collection? What does that mean? :o:blink:

I set my goal to collect 1900 to 1967 Farthing to Crown. Well I,ve added most of the major varieties and many of the minor one's as well to keep it going. Not much else to add now. :(

Wow well done, that means you have all the wreath proof crowns and all the VIP crowns, thats great ive been trying to do that for all my life, tell me your secret!!

All the wreaths but not proof wreaths, apart from 1927. All the VIPs. Edge errors for 1935 currency and raised edge proof, 1951,1953 and 1981. 1935 0.500 proof but not the 0.925. I've also got the edge lettering both ways up for the 1935 currency and specimens as well as 1951 from box and from proof set, 1953 proof both ways up as well as the wide date polished 1960. And both 1965. Would like to find a 1902 edge error and the 1953 proof with the I to the small tooth.

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The people i used were Wardrop & Co ltd (Lloyds) from Colchester, member of FSA, found them very easy to talk to and very helpfull.

Tel no 01376 563764. They will cover you when transporting collections as well as within safe storage.

That's interesting to know as my collection is largely complete and I was thinking of banking it rather than spend £500 on insurance, you can buy a couple of good coins for that.

Can you explain that a little more please!

I'm just upgrading really now, all the major obtainable holes are filled. Really just things like the 1935 gold crown, the old 1920's cupro nickel bits, unconfirmed varieties ect which I don't expect to find for prices I can afford. I intend to sell my collection in about 7 years time and paying £500 a year for the next 7 year so that it can stand in the corner of my living room. I can think of better things to spend my money on.

The whole point of having a valuable collection in the bank and having it insured is so that its not sat in your front room waiting for burglars!!

The whole point of having a valuable collection in the bank is that you can't enjoy it!!!!

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The whole point of having a valuable collection in the bank is that you can't enjoy it!!!!

You can also apportion it - bank/home in whatever split you think best. That gives the opportunity to do research on a section of the collection whilst leaving the majority in the bank. Then rotate according to what you want to study as few collections would require the whole spread of material.

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The whole point of banking valuable collections is so that a thief cant enjoy your life long collection/investment.

We all think that it wont happen to us, but it can, then you try claiming from your household policy, good frigging luck!

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The whole point of having a valuable collection in the bank is that you can't enjoy it!!!!

You can also apportion it - bank/home in whatever split you think best. That gives the opportunity to do research on a section of the collection whilst leaving the majority in the bank. Then rotate according to what you want to study as few collections would require the whole spread of material.

The whole point of banking valuable collections is so that a thief cant enjoy your life long collection/investment.

We all think that it wont happen to us, but it can, then you try claiming from your household policy, good frigging luck!

It's not just research Rob - it's the simple enjoyment of taking out your favourite coins when you want to, examining them under a light, or just admiring the reasons why you bought them in the first place.

divemaster - two points:

1. the greatest security is not to talk about your hobby to others, so no-one actually outside your family knows you have the collection. And if you have locked cabinets, even better.

2. as for insurance, I've interrogated my contents provider about coins, and asked whether the collection - either as a whole or as individual coins - would be covered under "valuables", and then increased the valuables cover to the max. However, given the value of some members' collections here, I can see that wouldn't be near enough, in which case £500 a year is NOT a high price to pay (IMO) for a collection worth somewhere either side of £100,000.

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I am safe then, phew! i have no coins, no money, six starving german shepards, a wife thats a boxer, live on an island in a castle with a drawbridge, and dont have visitors!

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I bet all you guys cant wait to bid for the CGS encapsulated coins comming up in the London Coins auction!!

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Will be avoided at all costs unless I see a glaring error.I only have half a dozen slabbed and I bought these at OK prices from dealers.

Can't understand TPG's if you know your subject.

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I bet all you guys cant wait to bid for the CGS encapsulated coins comming up in the London Coins auction!!

Went through some of the Londons catalogue and just could'nt be bothered with the Rest as its all over the place, so never noticed any CGS coins, can't say i'll be Holding my breath, just like any other encapsulated coin i assume

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Yea, not much in the latest London Coin Auction.

Another security point is to not have any coin related items, magazines, shipping material, etc. with YOUR address/name in the rubbish if at all possible.

Gary, not to pry but do you have the 1929 VIP proofs or the 1945 or 1946s (save the 3d and 6d & know of one 1946E shilling)

which is evidently somewhat available)? Mattes of 1950?

The 1923 Nickel 3d would be a stopper but one was making the rounds 2 0r three years ago; the 1923 Nickel shilling less available than the 1924 but less than the 1927.

MODEL patterns? PM me if you'd like but I have been trying to figure out if some of the first ones listed are even in private hands. The 1930 VIP record proof 2/6 is

evidently represented by one in private hands....

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Yea, not much in the latest London Coin Auction.

Another security point is to not have any coin related items, magazines, shipping material, etc. with YOUR address/name in the rubbish if at all possible.

Gary, not to pry but do you have the 1929 VIP proofs or the 1945 or 1946s (save the 3d and 6d & know of one 1946E shilling)

which is evidently somewhat available)? Mattes of 1950?

The 1923 Nickel 3d would be a stopper but one was making the rounds 2 0r three years ago; the 1923 Nickel shilling less available than the 1924 but less than the 1927.

MODEL patterns? PM me if you'd like but I have been trying to figure out if some of the first ones listed are even in private hands. The 1930 VIP record proof 2/6 is

evidently represented by one in private hands....

No none of the above, I'm strictly currency apart from the mass produced proofs. Coins like the nickles I considered out of my league.

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My nickel shilling is a 1923 if that helps with pop numbers. I don't have any of the others mentioned.

Edited to add - Sorry, I also have a 1929 proof halfpenny.

Edited by Rob

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I wonder what the true rarity of those are as I had two of the '24s and a single '23 - may have shifted one of the '24s though. Supposedly some were struck on the 5.0 gm modulus with others 5.7 and never weighed mine - all in the name of good (bad) science...

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I wonder what the true rarity of those are as I had two of the '24s and a single '23 - may have shifted one of the '24s though. Supposedly some were struck on the 5.0 gm modulus with others 5.7 and never weighed mine - all in the name of good (bad) science...

My 1923 weighs 5.68g.

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Hi, I collect modern crowns and recently I've bought a couple of £5 coins one from Gibraltar 2002 and the other from the Isle of Man 1995 and they have a frosted finnish on the reverse and obverse, I know that modern United Kingdom proof coins have a frosted finnish so are these coins proof or do these two countries produce frosted finnish coins for general use.

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I wonder what the true rarity of those are as I had two of the '24s and a single '23 - may have shifted one of the '24s though. Supposedly some were struck on the 5.0 gm modulus with others 5.7 and never weighed mine - all in the name of good (bad) science...

I think ESC is reasonably accurate on this one, as I would put both at somewhere around a dozen examples. Certainly not down to R3 and R5 seems a bit tight for documented examples. Some sales must be the same coin resurfacing, but others in museum collections won't be known to me.

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How does anyone, with any accuracy evaluate if ESC figures are right or wrong?

Not having a moan, just trying to understand?

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How does anyone, with any accuracy evaluate if ESC figures are right or wrong?

Not having a moan, just trying to understand?

Spadework. Checking through auction catalogues from time of issue and noting previous sales if listed in the lot description can give a more educated guess than how many people have seen on ebay, or simply reiterating what is written down.

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I second that ....Something you learn over time and with the scarcer bits can actually follow particular coins over time....Almost like old friends.

I still think I would vote for the 1924 nickel shilling in both possible iterations as being just a bit more common than the 1923 variant...

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I will third that :) Seeking some wants is so difficult from Ebay,fairs,lists and auctions.We know where Spink & ESC have missed the bigger picture.

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I was not sure if I should put this here,or in the coin of the week,however this is a recent purchase,the fields are mirror finished(which goes back to the original question,with regards to Proofs and circulation Crowns),George III Crowns in my opinion are harder to tell between the two types,or it may be that I have not seen a Proof yet.Rob managed to help me with dating this back to a collection in 1968.

1820CrownLXnostopaftertutamenChristies1286lot200r_zpsddf9b468.jpg

1820CrownLXnostopaftertutamenChristies1286lot200_zpsc7b63bc5.jpg

The biggest find on this Crown for me was the N over M in Britanniarum,almost all of the 1818 Crowns have no lower left Serif on the M and a few types of 1819/1820 are also missing this Serif,so unsure if this Crown would explain the reason for this.It is also supposedly the only 1820 Crown with missing stop after Tvtamen.Sorry Divemaster if I hijacked your thread to show this,however I have seen your George III Crowns,which are very nice especially the 20217

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I think I could live with that. :)

The tiny mark in the laurels is a real pain given the rest of it.

Edited by Rob

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I think I could live with that. :)

The tiny mark in the laurels is a real pain given the rest of it.

It is nice,the marks look like something was dropped onto it,however this was old damage mentioned in a catalogue in 2001.I would hate to think I did it,there has been a few times,were I have received a coin,took it out and noticed a scratch,only to wonder if that was my fault when removing it from the packaging.

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