Test for Pictures

[Accumulator 52]

Yes it's PCGS65RB

Truly best I've seen and IMO undergraded as we all like to say about our own.

And going to that external site was a complete waste of fecking time . Your picture was much much smaller than you would even get here if you followed the advice I gave above.

What's worse, I had to use the Goback button about 12 times before I could get back to here. What you need is advice on how to post the image to Photobucket with a link so it appears HERE without our having to leave this site. That's what Dave does, maybe he will explain how to do it?

That's what I do too, simply click on the 'IMG code' entry the CTRL + 'v' or right-click paste in here, eh viola!

[Mr Punch voice] : "That's the way to do it!"

That's exactly what I do too. Cut and past the url in seconds. It really is simple (I explained how above, somewhere).

[1949threepence 3,367]

Using the IMG code drops it straight in, obviating the need for an external link.

[1949threepence 3,367]

Yes it's PCGS65RB

Truly best I've seen and IMO undergraded as we all like to say about our own.

And going to that external site was a complete waste of fecking time . Your picture was much much smaller than you would even get here if you followed the advice I gave above.

What's worse, I had to use the Goback button about 12 times before I could get back to here. What you need is advice on how to post the image to Photobucket with a link so it appears HERE without our having to leave this site. That's what Dave does, maybe he will explain how to do it?

You're best to use the IMG link on Photobucket (see post above), because as you say, it's a game trying to reverse out of it. Anybody could have done it for VS by the way.

For external image hosting sites, I much prefer tiny pic (see VS's first pic sent to me by e mail above ~ the 1882H with the H tooled off), as you can back straight out of it, and only the pic is shown.

It needs photoshopping to get a bigger image, and you advised on the technicalities earlier.

Edited February 18, 2013 by 1949threepence

[scott 144]

using omnicoin is far more simple

this is mine, cost me a whole mightly overpriced....

5p

Edited February 18, 2013 by scott

[1949threepence 3,367]

"Omnicoin" ~ I must give that a whirl, Scott. Thanks.

[VickySilver 830]

I tried the "Control" plus the "v" both at the same time and in sequence but nothing happened. When I tried the IMG thing, nothing seemed to happen so not sure what bit I left out.

Think I'm getting a mental block so try it again.

I will go back to step to step this week just to try to get this.

Thanks for the patience of all.

[Paulus 1,975]

VS, here's a very short (< 1 minute) tutorial on how to do it

[1949threepence 3,367]

I tried the "Control" plus the "v" both at the same time and in sequence but nothing happened. When I tried the IMG thing, nothing seemed to happen so not sure what bit I left out.

Think I'm getting a mental block so try it again.

I will go back to step to step this week just to try to get this.

Thanks for the patience of all.

It really is dead easy.

Go into one of your photobucket images ~ say the 1926ME one.

Look to where it says "image links" on the right hand side, and if the options are not already displayed, open them up by clicking on the downward arrow key.

Then left click the one which has "IMG code" written on it. It will briefly turn yellow, and say "copied".

Then open a new post on here as though you are about to post something. But instead of writing anything, right click and then left click on "paste" from the resulting menu. Your picture will appear in the post.

[VickySilver 830]

OK, fellas, I used the

"Debbie Does Dallas" YouTube method

[VickySilver 830]

NO scuffing, I need a better picture.

Paulus, yours is the simplest....

OK this is an out of focus obverse of the 1903 2/6.

Edited February 19, 2013 by VickySilver

[VickySilver 830]

OK, this is a reverse of a Jubilee 6d, dated 1893 - awful photo.

Edited February 19, 2013 by VickySilver

[jaggy 528]

OK, this is a reverse of a Jubilee 6d, dated 1893 - awful photo.

I suspect your camera is too close to the coin which is why the photo is a bit out of focus.

I take my photos from further away but then crop them in Photoshop Elements. That allows me to get the coin in focus but also close enough to see the detail.

You don't need to buy a product like photoshop to crop photos. There are plenty of standard packages that allow you to do it (e.g. Iphoto).

[Peckris 579]

You're photographing through a slab or a capsule. You need to take the coin out where possible, to get a decent photo (not possible with slabs unfortunately, unless you 'crack it out'). The camera's autofocus will 'see' any mark on the slab/capsule and zero in on that (though the 1903 reverse the camera got it right). The only way around that is to use Aperture Priority (A mode) and choose the largest number you can to get good depth of field (f5.6 - f8 on a compact or superzoom, f11 - f16 on a DSLR). You'll need a tripod as this method will necessitate a slow shutter speed.

[Nick 329]

You're photographing through a slab or a capsule. You need to take the coin out where possible, to get a decent photo (not possible with slabs unfortunately, unless you 'crack it out'). The camera's autofocus will 'see' any mark on the slab/capsule and zero in on that (though the 1903 reverse the camera got it right). The only way around that is to use Aperture Priority (A mode) and choose the largest number you can to get good depth of field (f5.6 - f8 on a compact or superzoom, f11 - f16 on a DSLR). You'll need a tripod as this method will necessitate a slow shutter speed.

The biggest problem though is reflected light from the slab. The best way to avoid that is to ensure that the slab is precisely 'face on' to the camera. I routinely take pictures of slabbed coins without any issues.

Edited February 19, 2013 by Nick

[Fubar 80]

Are there no thoughts for the future of the site when someone doing research finds that the photo they want of the coin they're interested in is no longer available because it's been removed from the external picture storage site?

Other sites that I administer try to strongly discourage external sources as much as possible especially when it is so simple to upload direct.

[Nick 329]

Are there no thoughts for the future of the site when someone doing research finds that the photo they want of the coin they're interested in is no longer available because it's been removed from the external picture storage site?

Other sites that I administer try to strongly discourage external sources as much as possible especially when it is so simple to upload direct.

If the size requirements for posting pictures 'direct' to the forum wasn't so stringent, it wouldn't be necessary to use an external host.

[Accumulator 52]

Are there no thoughts for the future of the site when someone doing research finds that the photo they want of the coin they're interested in is no longer available because it's been removed from the external picture storage site?

Other sites that I administer try to strongly discourage external sources as much as possible especially when it is so simple to upload direct.

If the size requirements for posting pictures 'direct' to the forum wasn't so stringent, it wouldn't be necessary to use an external host.

That, and the fact that the photos appear only as thumbnails which then need to be opened, rather than directly in the post. This makes reading of threads far less comfortable.

Ideally, the forum software would 'grab' any images from external sources and save them locally. This would prevent them disappearing in future should they be removed, or their source site disappear.

Edited February 19, 2013 by Accumulator

[jaggy 528]

You're photographing through a slab or a capsule. You need to take the coin out where possible, to get a decent photo (not possible with slabs unfortunately, unless you 'crack it out'). The camera's autofocus will 'see' any mark on the slab/capsule and zero in on that (though the 1903 reverse the camera got it right). The only way around that is to use Aperture Priority (A mode) and choose the largest number you can to get good depth of field (f5.6 - f8 on a compact or superzoom, f11 - f16 on a DSLR). You'll need a tripod as this method will necessitate a slow shutter speed.

With a DSLR camera in A mode, shutter speed will depend on how much light you have. You can also increase the ISO to get a faster shutter speed and a lens/camera that has Vibration Reduction will help as well.

[Nick 329]

You're photographing through a slab or a capsule. You need to take the coin out where possible, to get a decent photo (not possible with slabs unfortunately, unless you 'crack it out'). The camera's autofocus will 'see' any mark on the slab/capsule and zero in on that (though the 1903 reverse the camera got it right). The only way around that is to use Aperture Priority (A mode) and choose the largest number you can to get good depth of field (f5.6 - f8 on a compact or superzoom, f11 - f16 on a DSLR). You'll need a tripod as this method will necessitate a slow shutter speed.

With a DSLR camera in A mode, shutter speed will depend on how much light you have. You can also increase the ISO to get a faster shutter speed and a lens/camera that has Vibration Reduction will help as well.

Except that when securely mounted on a tripod, VR should be switched off (or at least Nikon recommend that you do).

[Accumulator 52]

You're photographing through a slab or a capsule. You need to take the coin out where possible, to get a decent photo (not possible with slabs unfortunately, unless you 'crack it out'). The camera's autofocus will 'see' any mark on the slab/capsule and zero in on that (though the 1903 reverse the camera got it right). The only way around that is to use Aperture Priority (A mode) and choose the largest number you can to get good depth of field (f5.6 - f8 on a compact or superzoom, f11 - f16 on a DSLR). You'll need a tripod as this method will necessitate a slow shutter speed.

With a DSLR camera in A mode, shutter speed will depend on how much light you have. You can also increase the ISO to get a faster shutter speed and a lens/camera that has Vibration Reduction will help as well.

The photos that Heritage Auctions routinely take through slabs are some of the best I've ever seen. Cleary they take them by the thousand and have the perfect set up.

Here's an example:

[Nick 329]

You're photographing through a slab or a capsule. You need to take the coin out where possible, to get a decent photo (not possible with slabs unfortunately, unless you 'crack it out'). The camera's autofocus will 'see' any mark on the slab/capsule and zero in on that (though the 1903 reverse the camera got it right). The only way around that is to use Aperture Priority (A mode) and choose the largest number you can to get good depth of field (f5.6 - f8 on a compact or superzoom, f11 - f16 on a DSLR). You'll need a tripod as this method will necessitate a slow shutter speed.

With a DSLR camera in A mode, shutter speed will depend on how much light you have. You can also increase the ISO to get a faster shutter speed and a lens/camera that has Vibration Reduction will help as well.

The photos that Heritage Auctions routinely take through slabs are some of the best I've ever seen. Cleary they take them by the thousand and have the perfect set up.

Totally agree. Heritage is always my first port of call, if I'm looking for a super-size super-quality picture of a particular coin.

Edited February 19, 2013 by Nick

[Peckris 579]

Are there no thoughts for the future of the site when someone doing research finds that the photo they want of the coin they're interested in is no longer available because it's been removed from the external picture storage site?

Other sites that I administer try to strongly discourage external sources as much as possible especially when it is so simple to upload direct.

If the size requirements for posting pictures 'direct' to the forum wasn't so stringent, it wouldn't be necessary to use an external host.

That, and the fact that the photos appear only as thumbnails which then need to be opened, rather than directly in the post. This makes reading of threads far less comfortable.

Ideally, the forum software would 'grab' any images from external sources and save them locally. This would prevent them disappearing in future should they be removed, or their source site disappear.

1. If people would actually follow my advice, or Chris would listen to my plea to post it as a 'Sticky', then the size limit wouldn't seem half so restrictive.

2. I find that far preferable to being directed to an external site, as this forum for some reason insists on using THIS tab when you click, instead of opening the link in a new tab. Showing the external picture directly in the post, as most people do, is the best solution, but the poster has to be a registered member of the other site with all the hassle that involves, plus having to go off there to fetch the link each time. I have no problems with clicking on a thumbnail, then Esc when I've done.

You're photographing through a slab or a capsule. You need to take the coin out where possible, to get a decent photo (not possible with slabs unfortunately, unless you 'crack it out'). The camera's autofocus will 'see' any mark on the slab/capsule and zero in on that (though the 1903 reverse the camera got it right). The only way around that is to use Aperture Priority (A mode) and choose the largest number you can to get good depth of field (f5.6 - f8 on a compact or superzoom, f11 - f16 on a DSLR). You'll need a tripod as this method will necessitate a slow shutter speed.

With a DSLR camera in A mode, shutter speed will depend on how much light you have. You can also increase the ISO to get a faster shutter speed and a lens/camera that has Vibration Reduction will help as well.

Bad wording on my part - what I meant to say is that in A mode, if you choose a small aperture, the CAMERA will select a slow shutter speed.

[Peter 615]

A good stiff drink helps reduce vibration.

I still only do Ebay quality pictures.There is plenty to learn on coin photography.

[VickySilver 830]

OK, still not a great picture but maybe shows the area below the date better? I do not see spots like the two little areas I see on the photo on the coin...

Edited February 20, 2013 by VickySilver

[Peckris 579]

OK, still not a great picture but maybe shows the area below the date better? I do not see spots like the two little areas I see on the photo on the coin...

More to the point, is the obverse / reverse die combination correct for London?