hello from Nek

[Nek17 0]

Just want to say hi to everyone, I am a beginner interested in 1816 milled silver coins onwards. I am now going through all the 'teaching' materials on eBay and internet, hopefully I could learn from the gurus here to tell the fake from goodies.

Cheers.

[Peckris 579]

Just want to say hi to everyone, I am a beginner interested in 1816 milled silver coins onwards. I am now going through all the 'teaching' materials on eBay and internet, hopefully I could learn from the gurus here to tell the fake from goodies.

Cheers.

Welcome to the forums Nek

eBay is ok to start with perhaps, but remember they are a business. We would be glad to help you out if you see something online and have your doubts. We can't give cast-iron guarantees from just a picture, but we can certainly advise if something looks wrong, or if - as in the case of Edward VII 1905 halfcrowns for example - we see that tell-tale R in the legend.

Anyway, good luck with getting started and you will find us a friendly bunch (unless we are all chasing the same auction on eBay )

[Peter 615]

Hi Nek...welcome

I'm sure you know what you like.The truth is if you like it so will many others.Grading is subjective.Ignore grading for hammered (see the forgoing).

There are few dealers on Ebay who are believable...but yes they do exist.I have my favourites.

By all means keep your eyes open but sometimes an eye appealing GVF is more desirable than a claggy EF.

Feel the market and don't be afraid.You can always sell on a pretty coin.

[Nek17 0]

Hi Nek...welcome

I'm sure you know what you like.The truth is if you like it so will many others.Grading is subjective.Ignore grading for hammered (see the forgoing).

There are few dealers on Ebay who are believable...but yes they do exist.I have my favourites.

By all means keep your eyes open but sometimes an eye appealing GVF is more desirable than a claggy EF.

Feel the market and don't be afraid.You can always sell on a pretty coin.

Many thanks to you - forum Gods

I have gone through most of videos and articles about testing, and ordered testing kit, the eBay seller doesn't know if it's Neodymium Rare Earth just say it is good and works *_* We will see, I also bought some coins from eBay, time to put internet knowledge into use, I will post pics if have doubts.

I summarized my findings about how to avoid fakes - priority from top to bottom, I know this may also skip some goodies opportunities from reputable vendors but...)

1. Never buy private auction coin or from eBayer who offered any private auctions;

2. Never buy from eBayer with <95% good reviews or changed eBay ID many times (especially the names are all very different from each other);

3. Weigh in the coin, check >+1% or <-5% ones;

4. Use magnetic button to test 45 degree angles - sliding too fast or stuck are fakes (no idea how it will change for .800, .925 or lower ones);

5. Use caliber to measure diameter and thickness;

6. Use magnifier to check: bubble/soapy feeling on blank and cast line on the edge/rim;

7. Check other details according to a genuine sample, die alignment etc.

8. Ping test

9. 'Cartwheel' test??

10. Not to be used testing method - acid!

I guess these steps would help me avoid 90%+ fakes? Judged by the quantity of Youtube vids, the US eBay were full of counterfeit silver dollars; however, not many vids for UK coins.

Finally it's down to the question that did I pay too much for it

[divemaster 11]

Hi Nek, I get my reasonaly valuable coins graded by CGS, when they return they are encapsulated in holders (so that they dont get damaged, and the grade stays the same) I also then have the value, type, and listings of them for insurance purposes.

Lots of collectors dont agree with encapsulation of coins but in time it will become only way forward.

Good luck

[Nick 329]

And possibly the best piece of advice is "Don't believe everything that you read", and that includes forum posts too!

[divemaster 11]

Also never listen to blanketing, old fashioned remarks, do you your own research, understand why you collect coins and form the best logical way forward!

[Nek17 0]

Hi Nek, I get my reasonaly valuable coins graded by CGS, when they return they are encapsulated in holders (so that they dont get damaged, and the grade stays the same) I also then have the value, type, and listings of them for insurance purposes.

Lots of collectors dont agree with encapsulation of coins but in time it will become only way forward.

Good luck

Thanks dive, I will certainly check CGS out

[Nek17 0]

And possibly the best piece of advice is "Don't believe everything that you read", and that includes forum posts too!

LOL, Nick, just realized we have similar interest and even names are similar!

I haven't reached this level yet - we will see. I am trying to find a good database of numismatic data for 1800 onwards UK coins (e.g. good solution picture with details explained, weight, size etc.), seems there is none I had to combine information from http://www.coins-of-the-uk.co.uk, http://coinsgb.com and also our http://coinsgb.com I think I will end up making own database or webpage soon... maybe I missed some good websites?

BTW, if admin can see this, the forums 'read first' post has invalid links to grading etc.

[Nek17 0]

And possibly the best piece of advice is "Don't believe everything that you read", and that includes forum posts too!

LOL, Nick, just realized we have similar interest and even names are similar!

I haven't reached this level yet - we will see. I am trying to find a good database of numismatic data for 1800 onwards UK coins (e.g. good solution picture with details explained, weight, size etc.), seems there is none I had to combine information from http://www.coins-of-the-uk.co.uk, http://coinsgb.com and also our http://coinsgb.com I think I will end up making own database or webpage soon... maybe I missed some good websites?

BTW, if admin can see this, the forums 'read first' post has invalid links to grading etc.

Typo, should be 'http://www.predecimal.com'

[Nick 329]

And possibly the best piece of advice is "Don't believe everything that you read", and that includes forum posts too!

LOL, Nick, just realized we have similar interest and even names are similar!

I haven't reached this level yet - we will see. I am trying to find a good database of numismatic data for 1800 onwards UK coins (e.g. good solution picture with details explained, weight, size etc.), seems there is none I had to combine information from http://www.coins-of-the-uk.co.uk, http://coinsgb.com and also our http://coinsgb.com I think I will end up making own database or webpage soon... maybe I missed some good websites?

BTW, if admin can see this, the forums 'read first' post has invalid links to grading etc.

The weights of silver coins are pretty easy to remember (or at least to work out). All you need to remember is that a crown nominally weighs 0.9090 troy ounces and the others can be worked out from that (halfcrown = 0.4545, florin = 0.3636, shilling = 0.1818 etc). Then you'll probably need to convert troy ounces to grams which is multiply by 31.1034768.

Edited March 12, 2013 by Nick

[declanwmagee 122]

I am trying to find a good database of numismatic data for 1800 onwards UK coins (e.g. good solution picture with details explained, weight, size etc.), seems there is none I had to combine information from http://www.coins-of-the-uk.co.uk, http://coinsgb.com and also our http://coinsgb.com I think I will end up making own database or webpage soon... maybe I missed some good websites?

Funny you should say that, Nek....watch this space

[Coinery 1,156]

1. Never buy private auction coin or from eBayer who offered any private auctions

2. Never buy from eBayer with <95% good reviews

10. Not to be used testing method - acid!

Welcome aboard, Nek, plenty to learn here on this forum for all of us!

1) not all private sellers are unscrupulous. Some have their own reasons, and some are just, well, private! There are bargains to be had from genuine sellers who are private! However, maybe give them a pass if you are uncomfortable with it!

2) you've only got to unluckily bump into a couple of arses on eBay to get 95%, might be better to look at the big picture, namely, their full trading history, before writing off more potential bargains!

10) definitely wrong here I personally think! Take a look at www.quicktest.co.uk I have confirmed and reassured myself on endless occasions re the authenticity of coins, using their products, WITHOUT as much as a trace noticeable of damage to the edge!

We're not talking the Crippen Test here! I'll put up some before and after pictures over the next couple of days, just to clear up the acid misunderstanding! I rate it as highly as the scales on the occasions where it's called into service. I would suggest around 2 in 100 for me, as I get more and more comfortable with what constitutes a genuine coin!

Enjoy the ride, it's a great forum!

[Nek17 0]

[Nek17 0]

1. Never buy private auction coin or from eBayer who offered any private auctions

2. Never buy from eBayer with <95% good reviews

10. Not to be used testing method - acid!

Welcome aboard, Nek, plenty to learn here on this forum for all of us!

1) not all private sellers are unscrupulous. Some have their own reasons, and some are just, well, private! There are bargains to be had from genuine sellers who are private! However, maybe give them a pass if you are uncomfortable with it!

2) you've only got to unluckily bump into a couple of arses on eBay to get 95%, might be better to look at the big picture, namely, their full trading history, before writing off more potential bargains!

10) definitely wrong here I personally think! Take a look at www.quicktest.co.uk I have confirmed and reassured myself on endless occasions re the authenticity of coins, using their products, WITHOUT as much as a trace noticeable of damage to the edge!

We're not talking the Crippen Test here! I'll put up some before and after pictures over the next couple of days, just to clear up the acid misunderstanding! I rate it as highly as the scales on the occasions where it's called into service. I would suggest around 2 in 100 for me, as I get more and more comfortable with what constitutes a genuine coin!

Enjoy the ride, it's a great forum!

Thanks mate, I just tried to be the most conservative in purchase since I've got almost no experience yet

For the acid test, most articles said No; however, as an engineer and newbie I did order the test solution and some scrap silver. I plan to file on the groove of rim to do some test - then I could see the real damage - the online vid and pictures are not good for me (poor eyesight!)

[Coinery 1,156]

1. Never buy private auction coin or from eBayer who offered any private auctions

2. Never buy from eBayer with <95% good reviews

10. Not to be used testing method - acid!

Welcome aboard, Nek, plenty to learn here on this forum for all of us!

1) not all private sellers are unscrupulous. Some have their own reasons, and some are just, well, private! There are bargains to be had from genuine sellers who are private! However, maybe give them a pass if you are uncomfortable with it!

2) you've only got to unluckily bump into a couple of arses on eBay to get 95%, might be better to look at the big picture, namely, their full trading history, before writing off more potential bargains!

10) definitely wrong here I personally think! Take a look at www.quicktest.co.uk I have confirmed and reassured myself on endless occasions re the authenticity of coins, using their products, WITHOUT as much as a trace noticeable of damage to the edge!

We're not talking the Crippen Test here! I'll put up some before and after pictures over the next couple of days, just to clear up the acid misunderstanding! I rate it as highly as the scales on the occasions where it's called into service. I would suggest around 2 in 100 for me, as I get more and more comfortable with what constitutes a genuine coin!

Enjoy the ride, it's a great forum!

Thanks mate, I just tried to be the most conservative in purchase since I've got almost no experience yet

For the acid test, most articles said No; however, as an engineer and newbie I did order the test solution and some scrap silver. I plan to file on the groove of rim to do some test - then I could see the real damage - the online vid and pictures are not good for me (poor eyesight!)

Top tip...don't use the file! You'll get the information you're looking for with just a tiny micro-dab from the applicator directly onto the decontaminated edge! Please don't use the file...I'll get that post up over the next few day!

Ps: the filing bit it to determine whether something has been plated or not! With coins, particularly past a certain age, the plating is obvious, and not something you'd even need to waste a spot of test-solution on!

Edited March 13, 2013 by Coinery

[Nek17 0]

Top tip...don't use the file! You'll get the information you're looking for with just a tiny micro-dab from the applicator directly onto the decontaminated edge! Please don't use the file...I'll get that post up over the next few day!

Ps: the filing bit it to determine whether something has been plated or not! With coins, particularly past a certain age, the plating is obvious, and not something you'd even need to waste a spot of test-solution on!

Hi there, I will take the advice Done my test with acid, and result is ... surprisingly good. I dripped one on the surface of schilling, the red color was good to show stirling - I left it on for a while to see the max damage. After wiping it off, I used my 40X magnifier to check the surface, no apparent damage at all even loss of toning Now I am thinking if the stuff I bought was not strong enough! LOL

Here are some pics before, during and after:

[Coinery 1,156]

You've got in there before me!

I personally would recommend a pinhead spot to the edge, even the edge of hammered coins offer up a wide enough surface to 'touch' a tiny bit of the solution onto it! However, your example certainly proves the point!

Interestingly, you'll find .500 silver won't react, the solution will stay yellow, so very useful for identifying the coins from the .925/.500 crossover.

It's found out a few counterfeits for me, I swear by it, if used intelligently!

Most coins can be determined genuine or fake by many other means, but for those nagging pieces, it certainly concludes one way or the other for you!

The only problem I've come across with it, is you can't tell a seller that their coin's a fake because it doesn't test positive for high-grade silver...once they have evidence you've been slapping acid on their coin (even though you know the coin is unharmed), your case is over, so bear that in mind!

[Coinery 1,156]

You've got in there before me!

I personally would recommend a pinhead spot to the edge, even the edge of hammered coins offer up a wide enough surface to 'touch' a tiny bit of the solution onto it! However, your example certainly proves the point!

Interestingly, you'll find .500 silver won't react, the solution will stay yellow, so very useful for identifying the coins from the .925/.500 crossover.

It's found out a few counterfeits for me, I swear by it, if used intelligently!

Most coins can be determined genuine or fake by many other means, but for those nagging pieces, it certainly concludes one way or the other for you!

The only problem I've come across with it, is you can't tell a seller that their coin's a fake because it doesn't test positive for high-grade silver...once they have evidence you've been slapping acid on their coin (even though you know the coin is unharmed), your case is over, so bear that in mind!

[Coinery 1,156]

I should also mention that I stand beside a running tap, and the second the solution colours red, it's in the water...so it's in contact with the solution for maybe 2-3 seconds at most! You absolutely cannot tell where it's been, not on ANY of the coins I've tested in the past, at least! But, as I say, I have only ever used the edges, and always decontaminated the surface first with a bit of acetone!

[Nek17 0]

I should also mention that I stand beside a running tap, and the second the solution colours red, it's in the water...so it's in contact with the solution for maybe 2-3 seconds at most! You absolutely cannot tell where it's been, not on ANY of the coins I've tested in the past, at least! But, as I say, I have only ever used the edges, and always decontaminated the surface first with a bit of acetone!

'Interestingly, you'll find .500 silver won't react, the solution will stay yellow, so very useful for identifying the coins from the .925/.500 crossover.'

Very much appreciate the advice Coinery, I think I will mend my acid test priority as - use with great caution